MyTailor (Hemrajani Bros.) Appreciation/Discussion Thread

[edinatlanta]

Bottom is a fc fabric from sotkas and middle is their house label fabric (they just arrived)

 

[edinatlanta]

Better shot of fabric although the sttipes are a periwinkle blue and other one isnt so purple

 

[classicalthunde]

I think i'm going to order my first shirt when i place my order for my traditional blazer at the end of the month. probably going to stick with a standard white or blue form their house label line to start.

any recommendations on what type of collar for a big guy, with a barrel chest, and thick neck (215lbs, 5'8", and a 17" neck)? this would be a formal shirt for wear with a suit, i like the idea of a cutaway or wide spread collar but i'm curious to hear others opinions in light of my build (of course I'll ask for Joe and Divij's input as well...)

 

[edinatlanta]

I think i'm going to order my first shirt when i place my order for my traditional blazer at the end of the month. probably going to stick with a standard white or blue form their house label line to start.

any recommendations on what type of collar for a big guy, with a barrel chest, and thick neck (215lbs, 5'8", and a 17" neck)? this would be a formal shirt for wear with a suit, i like the idea of a cutaway or wide spread collar but i'm curious to hear others opinions in light of my build (of course I'll ask for Joe and Divij's input as well...)

How wide is your head? Are you thick up there? (Aesthetically...less so intellectually....) because a standard point or button down will look fine

 

[classicalthunde]

How wide is your head? Are you thick up there? (Aesthetically...less so intellectually....) because a standard point or button down will look fine

yes, and yes. I typically wear an XL baseball hat (have never really formally measured my head or had a proper hat)

 

[ericgereghty]

Speaking of shirts and house fabric, I've found myself a tad underwhelmed with their house linens. Too susceptible (and quick) to fraying, in my opinion. Still really like MyT, but less likely to use them as my sole maker.

I'd say a prominent spread. My collar is a hybrid spread/cutaway, with a rather substantial collar height. I'm similar in height/neck size (5'9 and 17.5" neck), so that might provide some degree of a template to go off of. Will post a picture later.

 

[LThomsen]

How do the Thomas mason fabrics wear?
A friend told me that he has washed his Thomas mason fabric shirt 150 times and it remains office appropriate.

 

[Mark from Plano]

That’s about all I buy. Mine typically last several years.

 

[edinatlanta]

That’s about all I buy. Mine typically last several years.

A "Purple Book" baller over here...

 

[VintageAudiophile]

Speaking of shirts and house fabric, I've found myself a tad underwhelmed with their house linens. Too susceptible (and quick) to fraying, in my opinion. Still really like MyT, but less likely to use them as my sole maker.

I'd say a prominent spread. My collar is a hybrid spread/cutaway, with a rather substantial collar height. I'm similar in height/neck size (5'9 and 17.5" neck), so that might provide some degree of a template to go off of. Will post a picture later.

Interesting on the linens as I haven’t had any issues with them. I do wash all my own and have a couple that I’ve had for about 2 years now and after several washes no issues of fraying or tears. I always wash warm and then hang dry my linen. Is it mostly occurring on the collar or cuffs?

 

[weissmenswear]

Interesting on the linens as I haven’t had any issues with them. I do wash all my own and have a couple that I’ve had for about 2 years now and after several washes no issues of fraying or tears. I always wash warm and then hang dry my linen. Is it mostly occurring on the collar or cuffs?

Yeah, no issues for me with the linen book. I’ve actually been hoping mine would soften just a tad over time, they’re quite crisp.

I’ve had a lot of success with the Thomas mason (purple book) fabrics as well. One is now 5 years old and the other is going on four years, both strong and not even halfway through their usable lifespan. Depending on weave, they like to wrinkle, but that’s to be somewhat expected.

 

[VintageAudiophile]

Yeah, no issues for me with the linen book. I’ve actually been hoping mine would soften just a tad over time, they’re quite crisp.

I’ve had a lot of success with the Thomas mason (purple book) fabrics as well. One is now 5 years old and the other is going on four years, both strong and not even halfway through their usable lifespan. Depending on weave, they like to wrinkle, but that’s to be somewhat expected.

Do you have anything from the Hampton collection? If so, how have they held up to daily wear and do you find them to be a wrinkled mess at the end of the day?

I just got two from this collection with the cooper collar. My first impression is the feel is great but I’m concerned that it’s going to wrinkle very easily and may not be the best shirts to use for travel (I haven’t worn yet as I sent it to be professionally laundered). Also the white I got seems to be more transparent than I originally thought as I can easily see my collar stays in it which is the first time I had this happen on a shirt. Not sure if I’ll have to just not use stays with it but seemed odd how noticeable they were.

 

[tigerpac]

Could anyone fill in the blanks for me on their bespoke/full-hand grade suiting process?

I have purchased several shirts and trousers in the last year and have been generally happy with the results; so I am considering trying their bespoke (semi-bespoke?) suiting but wanted to know the details on the process.

Is it setup an appointment for measurements; do a basted fitting the next Joe & Co come through town; and then final product is jammed into a small box and sent over wrinkled (like previous orders ... half kidding )? Or are there more fittings? Self-fittings at home with pictures for them? What would you expect the total turnaround time to be for a first commission?

Thanks in advance.

 

[classicalthunde]

Could anyone fill in the blanks for me on their bespoke/full-hand grade suiting process?

I have purchased several shirts and trousers in the last year and have been generally happy with the results; so I am considering trying their bespoke (semi-bespoke?) suiting but wanted to know the details on the process.

Is it setup an appointment for measurements; do a basted fitting the next Joe & Co come through town; and then final product is jammed into a small box and sent over wrinkled (like previous orders ... half kidding )? Or are there more fittings? Self-fittings at home with pictures for them? What would you expect the total turnaround time to be for a first commission?

Thanks in advance.

I recently got a handmade/bespoke suit made with Joe and Divij, it was my first MyTailor/Hemrajani order. I met them in NYC to get measured and discuss the options, I brought along my best fitting jacket (MTM from another maker) and trousers as well for a starting point.

We starting talking about the purpose of the suit (standard business suit, nothing fancy) and what I wanted from it (longevity, timelessness, formal, etc.). Divij took a lot of measurements of my existing garments and Joe did the tape measuring, they took each measurement at least twice. I tried on my current garments and talked about what I like (drape, length, button stance) and what I didn't (arm hole height, lapel notch and stance).

Next we discussed fabrics and took a look at some books, I had a pretty good idea of what i wanted (navy twill), started with the VBC 110s and 150s, but when I expressed some interest in higher weight fabrics they guided me to the Drapers 5-star book. We discussed doing a fitting garment (moderate additional charge, maybe $200) or a basted fitting (significant I want to say $400 additional charge) and the benefits and draw backs of each. I opted for the basted fitting because i wanted a more bespoke suit/experience and also because Joe explained that not all fabrics behave the same way, so the most reliable way to nail the fit on the first go around would be a basted fitting. We then discussed options, Joe expressed that it is all handmade and they can do 'anything you want,' so it that sense it is a bespoke garment in that the world is your oyster as opposed to picking from a menu list of options (if you want to pickets 2cm higher they can do that, if you want a particular bellied lapel shape and provide some images they will try to recreate it). I then selected all the options, when asked directly for input Joe and Divij shared their opinion but did not suggest a 'house style' out of the gate.

next time they came through NYC we did our basted fitting (I think there are some pictures in this thread of it), this was about 3-4 months later. The garment was not yet finished. They took a lot of pictures, did some pinning and chalking, noted corrections for sleeve pitch and once again talked about what i liked/didnt (e.g. I wanted some slight drape in the chest). The finished garment arrived about 6 weeks later, it was packaged nicely...I let it hang for a few days and had it pressed, have worn it a few times and will have them take a look at it at the end of the month to see if any adjustments are necessary and what tweaks to provide for my next commission (which i've already picked out).

Overall I'm happy i did the handmade/bespoke option with the basted fitting, the cost was approximately 1.5x my other MTM suits, but they are within 90% of the fit the first try whereas my other MTMs took 3 or 4 commissions to truly lock down the fit. I also have unlimited options instead of a fixed menu, and they have a much larger array of fabric options available that most other MTM shops at their price point

 

[VintageAudiophile]

I recently got a handmade/bespoke suit made with Joe and Divij, it was my first MyTailor/Hemrajani order. I met them in NYC to get measured and discuss the options, I brought along my best fitting jacket (MTM from another maker) and trousers as well for a starting point.

We starting talking about the purpose of the suit (standard business suit, nothing fancy) and what I wanted from it (longevity, timelessness, formal, etc.). Divij took a lot of measurements of my existing garments and Joe did the tape measuring, they took each measurement at least twice. I tried on my current garments and talked about what I like (drape, length, button stance) and what I didn't (arm hole height, lapel notch and stance).

Next we discussed fabrics and took a look at some books, I had a pretty good idea of what i wanted (navy twill), started with the VBC 110s and 150s, but when I expressed some interest in higher weight fabrics they guided me to the Drapers 5-star book. We discussed doing a fitting garment (moderate additional charge, maybe $200) or a basted fitting (significant I want to say $400 additional charge) and the benefits and draw backs of each. I opted for the basted fitting because i wanted a more bespoke suit/experience and also because Joe explained that not all fabrics behave the same way, so the most reliable way to nail the fit on the first go around would be a basted fitting. We then discussed options, Joe expressed that it is all handmade and they can do 'anything you want,' so it that sense it is a bespoke garment in that the world is your oyster as opposed to picking from a menu list of options (if you want to pickets 2cm higher they can do that, if you want a particular bellied lapel shape and provide some images they will try to recreate it). I then selected all the options, when asked directly for input Joe and Divij shared their opinion but did not suggest a 'house style' out of the gate.

next time they came through NYC we did our basted fitting (I think there are some pictures in this thread of it), this was about 3-4 months later. The garment was not yet finished. They took a lot of pictures, did some pinning and chalking, noted corrections for sleeve pitch and once again talked about what i liked/didnt (e.g. I wanted some slight drape in the chest). The finished garment arrived about 6 weeks later, it was packaged nicely...I let it hang for a few days and had it pressed, have worn it a few times and will have them take a look at it at the end of the month to see if any adjustments are necessary and what tweaks to provide for my next commission (which i've already picked out).

Overall I'm happy i did the handmade/bespoke option with the basted fitting, the cost was approximately 1.5x my other MTM suits, but they are within 90% of the fit the first try whereas my other MTMs took 3 or 4 commissions to truly lock down the fit. I also have unlimited options instead of a fixed menu, and they have a much larger array of fabric options available that most other MTM shops at their price point

I had a similar experience but just didn’t do a basted fitting which is correct at $400 more. I did talk to them about logistics around fittings and you can also go to their main shop in CA for these vs. waiting for the traveling tailor. I ended up just not having the time needed to do the basted even if I traveled to CA but still had great results.

even without doing the basted it was a great experience. We did lots of photos of the finished product anD only had a couple small changes which they happily made and mailed the end product back quickly.