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What are your thoughts on the first suit I'll be buying?

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Before I start, I am really happy to be here in the styleforum, I used to lurk in the reddit section of r/malefashionadvice but due to some unfortunate circumstances,I can no longer lurk there. So, here is my first choice of clothing.

VBC Gray Glen Check - Courtesy of Spier & Macka

Here are the specs:
Options
Jacket - Model: Neapolitan Cut
Jacket - Canvas: Half
Jacket - Lining Style: Quarter
Jacket - Lining Color: Black
Jacket - Pocket: Normal Flap with Ticket
Jacket - Sleeve Cuff: Surgeon/Functioning Cuff
Jacket - Pick Stitch: Edge
Jacket - Button: Black Nut
Trouser - Front: Plain
Trouser - WaistBand: Extended
Trouser - Belt Loop: Side Tabs
Trouser - Cuffs: 4 cm / 1 3/4 inch Cuff

A little about me, I'm an ectomorph that packed a bit of muscle during my college days. I stand at around 5'9-5'10, Asian, and a big fan of 007. I decided to get this suit in commemoration of my love for my favorite character, this custom is perfect for my budget and I plan to wear it when I'm running around Europe during my early 20s.

I decided to go with the Neapolitan Cut, however, I am hesitant given my build, I am by no means skinny and I am fairly fond of the gym but I am not genetically enhanced in any form, should I opt for another fit from this brand or stick to this. I also picked Neapolitan because I wanted to invoke a more European fit that caters to where I am going.

I will be residing in Valencia Spain, wherein I am not entirely sure of the weather conditions there, so I decided to opt for the half-canvas padding. However, I am reluctant on my choice of padding given that I have heard that padding can make things more warmer than it already is, should I opt for no padding instead or go full canvas?

As for the trouser cuffs, what do you would make me look more fashionable? I'd like to wear this suit for formal affairs or even dates, I am torn between choosing trouser cuffs and if anyone has any idea what Bond used, I would also appreciate it.


I'll be pairing this suit with black cap-toe oxfords, a navy tie, and occasionally a pair of sunglasses. For the shirt, I'd opt for a double french cuffs or coctail cuffs. Any comments to enhance my outfit or any criticism would greatly be appreciated!
 

AgentGary

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Before I start, I am really happy to be here in the styleforum, I used to lurk in the reddit section of r/malefashionadvice but due to some unfortunate circumstances,I can no longer lurk there. So, here is my first choice of clothing.

VBC Gray Glen Check - Courtesy of Spier & Macka

Here are the specs:
Options
Jacket - Model: Neapolitan Cut
Jacket - Canvas: Half
Jacket - Lining Style: Quarter
Jacket - Lining Color: Black
Jacket - Pocket: Normal Flap with Ticket
Jacket - Sleeve Cuff: Surgeon/Functioning Cuff
Jacket - Pick Stitch: Edge
Jacket - Button: Black Nut
Trouser - Front: Plain
Trouser - WaistBand: Extended
Trouser - Belt Loop: Side Tabs
Trouser - Cuffs: 4 cm / 1 3/4 inch Cuff

A little about me, I'm an ectomorph that packed a bit of muscle during my college days. I stand at around 5'9-5'10, Asian, and a big fan of 007. I decided to get this suit in commemoration of my love for my favorite character, this custom is perfect for my budget and I plan to wear it when I'm running around Europe during my early 20s.

I decided to go with the Neapolitan Cut, however, I am hesitant given my build, I am by no means skinny and I am fairly fond of the gym but I am not genetically enhanced in any form, should I opt for another fit from this brand or stick to this. I also picked Neapolitan because I wanted to invoke a more European fit that caters to where I am going.

I will be residing in Valencia Spain, wherein I am not entirely sure of the weather conditions there, so I decided to opt for the half-canvas padding. However, I am reluctant on my choice of padding given that I have heard that padding can make things more warmer than it already is, should I opt for no padding instead or go full canvas?

As for the trouser cuffs, what do you would make me look more fashionable? I'd like to wear this suit for formal affairs or even dates, I am torn between choosing trouser cuffs and if anyone has any idea what Bond used, I would also appreciate it.


I'll be pairing this suit with black cap-toe oxfords, a navy tie, and occasionally a pair of sunglasses. For the shirt, I'd opt for a double french cuffs or coctail cuffs. Any comments to enhance my outfit or any criticism would greatly be appreciated!
S&M Neapolitan is neither European nor Neapolitan inspired.

Half canvas won't make a jacket cooler. Get the full canvas. Skip the padding unless your shoulders need correction.

Don't get black lining. Make sure it's at least bemberg/cupro and pick a different color.

Cuffs are fine on the pants. Not much fashionable designs you can do with suit pants.

You'll look like an agent with black oxfords, navy tie and shades. Too obvious for MI6, you'll expose us. Please wear something else like patterned tie, dark brown loafers or derbies.
 

rjc149

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Early 20's running around Europe? My advice is to rejoice, O young man, in thy youth. Wear shorts and tank tops, some comfortable sneakers for walking and sight-seeing, carry a Nalgene to stay hydrated -- Spain is hot.

For a first suit that can do job interviews, formal events, and anything that calls for a suit (definitely NEVER a date), I think the suit you linked is appropriate, although a solid charcoal or navy is the traditional choice. You certainly did a lot of homework, but the more conservative the 1st suit, the more versatile it is, the more longevity it has, and the better your money is spent.
 

taxgenius

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S&M Neapolitan is neither European nor Neapolitan inspired.

Half canvas won't make a jacket cooler. Get the full canvas. Skip the padding unless your shoulders need correction.

Don't get black lining. Make sure it's at least bemberg/cupro and pick a different color.

Cuffs are fine on the pants. Not much fashionable designs you can do with suit pants.

You'll look like an agent with black oxfords, navy tie and shades. Too obvious for MI6, you'll expose us. Please wear something else like patterned tie, dark brown loafers or derbies.
Hello,

I am deciding to go with the Slim - English Cut in Full Canvas because of the appealing roped shoulders, I'm open to other ideas such as the difference between slim English and contemporary English fit. However the english cut has more shoulder-padding, I have to tell you that I sustained an injury on my left wrist which affects my ability to carry more for shoulder exercises that means that there is a great chance that my shoulders are misaligned. I also changed the color of my lining to blue
 

rjc149

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Hello,

I am deciding to go with the Slim - English Cut in Full Canvas because of the appealing roped shoulders, I'm open to other ideas such as the difference between slim English and contemporary English fit. However the english cut has more shoulder-padding, I have to tell you that I sustained an injury on my left wrist which affects my ability to carry more for shoulder exercises that means that there is a great chance that my shoulders are misaligned. I also changed the color of my lining to blue
If you're as serious and enthusiastic about getting a suit as you seem, why don't you visit an actual bespoke suit maker? A tailor can assess your body, shape, build, etc, give you his expert opinion, and make something perfect for you. I'm sure visiting a custom suit tailor is something you would enjoy.
 

breakaway01

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If you're as serious and enthusiastic about getting a suit as you seem, why don't you visit an actual bespoke suit maker? A tailor can assess your body, shape, build, etc, give you his expert opinion, and make something perfect for you. I'm sure visiting a custom suit tailor is something you would enjoy.
because
1) bespoke is easily 5x the price of S&M MTO
2) it's clear that the OP has not yet figured out his own sense of style with regards to this suit -- would never recommend bespoke to someone who doesn't know this because house styles vary
3) bespoke does not equal "perfect"

you should know this since you posted about tailoring a used overcoat instead of getting a bespoke overcoat? Which is not to criticize the idea of tailoring a RTW overcoat -- in fact it can be a great idea. It just bugs me when people think that bespoke clothing is the solution to various problems. It is a very expensive, time-consuming, and niche endeavor and has to be approached with realistic expectations
 
Last edited:

rjc149

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because
1) bespoke is easily 5x the price of S&M MTO
2) it's clear that the OP has not yet figured out his own sense of style with regards to this suit -- would never recommend bespoke to someone who doesn't know this because house styles vary
3) bespoke does not equal "perfect"

you should know this since you posted about tailoring a used overcoat instead of getting a bespoke overcoat? Which is not to criticize the idea of tailoring a RTW overcoat -- in fact it can be a great idea. It just bugs me when people think that bespoke clothing is the solution to various problems. It is a very expensive, time-consuming, and niche endeavor and has to be approached with realistic expectations
My bad dude. I didn't mean to upset you.

Bespoke is not always 5X the price of MTO, by the way, and I didn't suggest he go to Saville Row. He's clearly enthusiastic about suits, which could very well blossom into a passion, so I was suggesting he feed that.
 
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My bad dude. I didn't mean to upset you.

Bespoke is not always 5X the price of MTO, by the way, and I didn't suggest he go to Saville Row. He's clearly enthusiastic about suits, which could very well blossom into a passion, so I was suggesting he feed that.

because
1) bespoke is easily 5x the price of S&M MTO
2) it's clear that the OP has not yet figured out his own sense of style with regards to this suit -- would never recommend bespoke to someone who doesn't know this because house styles vary
3) bespoke does not equal "perfect"

you should know this since you posted about tailoring a used overcoat instead of getting a bespoke overcoat? Which is not to criticize the idea of tailoring a RTW overcoat -- in fact it can be a great idea. It just bugs me when people think that bespoke clothing is the solution to various problems. It is a very expensive, time-consuming, and niche endeavor and has to be approached with realistic expectations


Hello guys since you're both already here could I ask since I'm going for an English Slim Fit suit, should I opt for contemporary trousers or slim trousers? I'm worried that S&M has slim trousers that are too tight and as a guy that works on his legs, it might not fit me properly, on the other hand, I am also worried that the contemporary fit wouldn't complement my english slim fit jacket too much. Any recommendations?
 

breakaway01

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Hello guys since you're both already here could I ask since I'm going for an English Slim Fit suit, should I opt for contemporary trousers or slim trousers? I'm worried that S&M has slim trousers that are too tight and as a guy that works on his legs, it might not fit me properly, on the other hand, I am also worried that the contemporary fit wouldn't complement my english slim fit jacket too much. Any recommendations?
It’s true that you want the general silhouette of your jacket to complement that of your trousers. But it’s hard to make specific recommendations like this without seeing how they look on you. How did you end up choosing the slim jacket over the contemporary jacket?
 

rjc149

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Slim suit = slim trousers.

I recommend against slim-fit formal wear. With the kind of money you’re spending on this garment, you would be better served with a more classic-looking piece that will provide many years of service always looking classic.

That being said, I’m really not familiar with S&M suits, so I really can’t say if the slim fits will flatter you. I just go by my general opinion that slim-fit is trendy and trendy clothes offer less wardrobe longevity.

Although it may be triggering for some, I’m going to stand by my earlier suggestion of visiting a brick-and-mortar store that sells suits— whether a bespoke shop, a department store or Joseph A Bank that has a MTM line, and try on a few different fits and styles. See what you like, what fits you, incorporate the suggestions given by someone who is actually watching you try the suits on, and go from there.

Trying to help an invisible stranger on the internet dial down the right suit from an internet store is a moving target. The general guideline is that the cut and style of the jacket and trousers should match. If you’re a slim guy with thick legs, it’s hard to say what fit will look best on you. You’re generally going for a V silhouette in a suit, not the inversion, so if you need room in the trousers, the jacket shouldn’t be slimmer.
 

bicycleradical

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Hello guys since you're both already here could I ask since I'm going for an English Slim Fit suit, should I opt for contemporary trousers or slim trousers? I'm worried that S&M has slim trousers that are too tight and as a guy that works on his legs, it might not fit me properly, on the other hand, I am also worried that the contemporary fit wouldn't complement my english slim fit jacket too much. Any recommendations?

IMO, the contemporary fit is still a fairly slim fit. There are people here who undoubtedly know the products better than me however I don't think that the contrast between contemporary and slim fits from S&M is that stark.
 

breakaway01

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IMO, the contemporary fit is still a fairly slim fit. There are people here who undoubtedly know the products better than me however I don't think that the contrast between contemporary and slim fits from S&M is that stark.
The two fits become closer as you go up in size. In 36 the difference is significant and in 42 it is quite small. In addition I could wear a 36 contemporary or a 38 slim with 30 contemporary trousers and the silhouette would be fine (if anything the 38 slim is a little larger in the shoulder and chest). So it’s hard to generalize about @ArlingtonBeech and say “slim has to go with slim” without understanding the specifics.
 

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