Letting a suit out

[Sanguis Mortuum]

Originally Posted by Chargersfan

If the seams are on the sides instead of the centre back, do the same.

Huh? Most jackets will have seams on both the sides and the centre back, unless they have a one-piece back. Either way there will be some sort of side seam.

 

[Martin Stall]

Originally Posted by Sanguis Mortuum

Huh? Most jackets will have seams on both the sides and the centre back, unless they have a one-piece back. Either way there will be some sort of side seam.

Of course.
Letting out is not supposed to be done on center back anyway.

 

[Chargersfan]

Originally Posted by Sanguis Mortuum

Huh? Most jackets will have seams on both the sides and the centre back, unless they have a one-piece back. Either way there will be some sort of side seam.

I wasn't really clear, I meant that if there is nothing in the back seam then they might find it in the sides

 

[Martin Stall]

Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH

I generally don't like doing the button move thing. It throws off the stance in most cases. I have this problem with a few suits with the bottom button. I am pretty slim, but I have these lovehandles that make the quarters of the jacket open up so the bottom button doesn't fall in line with the buttonhole. It is generally last on my list of priorities to get it let out slightly because the bottom button never gets buttoned anyway, but if the top button won't button it would bother me more so that I would seek advice of a tailor. It shouldn't take them too long to advise on whether they can let it out a bit or not.

Actually, the bottom button is not meant to line up with the button hole (on a SB). With open quarters, the edge moves away from center somewhere somewhere below the closing button. Button and hole are placed at the same distance from the edge all over, and so the hole and button can't close.

 

[Martin Stall]

Originally Posted by Chargersfan

I wasn't really clear, I meant that if there is nothing in the back seam then they might find it in the sides

I sure hope they can find it in the side seams, because if you let out a coat from center back, you are pretty much spelling disaster, in most cases.

 

[Toorman]

Originally Posted by Martin Stall

I sure hope they can find it in the side seams, because if you let out a coat from center back, you are pretty much spelling disaster, in most cases.

That was my experience as well. A few years back I was in the same boat with a Jil Sanders suit. The shoulders were perfect but I felt the cut (body) was just a touch too severe so I had the suit let out at the side seams and it turned out great. The key according to the tailor was having the extra fabric at the side seam or he wouldn't attempt it.

 

[JG000]

Originally Posted by OttoSkadelig

not a great idea. it will show. the quarters and button point won't overlap in the front as they normally would, and the look will immediately seem off-kilter.

Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH

I generally don't like doing the button move thing. It throws off the stance in most cases.

Originally Posted by Martin Stall

Actually, the bottom button is not meant to line up with the button hole (on a SB). With open quarters, the edge moves away from center somewhere somewhere below the closing button. Button and hole are placed at the same distance from the edge all over, and so the hole and button can't close.
I appreciate your input. It's a 1-button blazer, for what that's worth. I will put my trust (and the jacket) in my tailor's hands. I really don't mind wearing it unbuttoned in the meantime. I bought it for casual wear (dates, bars), so I'd probably be wearing it open most of the time anyway.

 

[Martin Stall]

Sounds like a guy who knows his stuff. Though it's one of the first things one learns when doing alterations. The only reason for inlays at CB is to alter during fittings, i.e. for pronounced shoulder blades, or forward hips or such.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Originally Posted by Martin Stall

Actually, the bottom button is not meant to line up with the button hole (on a SB). With open quarters, the edge moves away from center somewhere somewhere below the closing button. Button and hole are placed at the same distance from the edge all over, and so the hole and button can't close.

Hmm, you sure? I reckon the lovehandles aren't as big as I thought!

 

[Martin Stall]

I'm terribly, awfully, most 100 % sure. In fact, if you draft the front so that the lower button lines up with the buttonhole, you're pretty much forced to draft closed quarters, which is generally considered fairly inelegant.

As for the love handles: You look fine sir

 

[patttttt]

Just an FYI I recently got an Eidos jacket back from the tailor. He was able to let out about an inch and a half in total, taken from all three seams (one on each side plus center) to get the necessary fabric. He also had to let out the lining and stitch that back up. Not cheap - it was $325, which included shortening the sleeves a little as well, but nice work. Fortunately, the purchase price was a steal on ebay (less than the tailoring).

 

[bdavro23]

Just an FYI I recently got an Eidos jacket back from the tailor. He was able to let out about an inch and a half in total, taken from all three seams (one on each side plus center) to get the necessary fabric. He also had to let out the lining and stitch that back up. Not cheap - it was $325, which included shortening the sleeves a little as well, but nice work. Fortunately, the purchase price was a steal on ebay (less than the tailoring).

$325 to let out a jacket and shorten the sleeves? I cant imagine what would have made it cost that much. Also, I generally dislike having things let out via the center seam as it seems to cause some problems with gapping at the collar. Not always, but enough that it makes me shy...