Ian Harold Thomson boots

[nh10222]

PROS
Styling, comfort, material and construction specification

CONS
Made in Vietnam, workmanship and quality control need improvement

VALUE
Satisfactory but not exceptional. The current price is as much as I'd be willing to pay. Similarly priced William Lennon MTO boots are better quality.

A few specs
Upper: 2.5 mm bullhide leather
Lining: 1 mm cowhide
Construction: Rapid Standard brass wire screw, Fairstitch welt (Blake stitch)
Insole: leather, covered with poron, cork filling beneath
Midsole: oak-tanned butt leather - glued, stitched and screwed
Sole: cork nitrile
Heel: cork nitrile, glued and nailed
Shank: forged steel

While I was disappointed to discover that the 90 year old Harold factory in Melbourne was closed and sold a few years ago, with production moved to Vietnam, the main attraction to the brand was the Rapid Standard brass screw construction, which they share with William Lennon. I’m not sure if the new production line in Vietnam is still using the same old equipment from the Melbourne factory. Also attractive are the materials used and transparency on the website regarding the manufacturing process, something few makers offer.

Anyway, at least one review of the recent Vietnamese product included reports of a defect with the brass screws protruding from the soles and catching on carpets, which is cause for some concern. Despite this, I thought I’d give them a try anyway.

First hiccup: the boots were a no-show. More than a month after ordering I still hadn't received them, despite the website indicating they were in stock. An email soon fixed that, and they were on their way.

Here they are - a few dodgy photos.

A very different style of box, but quite good. The thick but flexible one-piece cardboard item seems very durable.

The thick bullhide is waxy and feels just right for its intended purpose. The colour is lighter than I thought it would be, although looks somewhat darker without flash.

The frilly flaps at the front (what is it called?) are attached by the laces only, so I plan to remove them.

That doesn't look like a Vietnamese flag to me...

That looks closer to the colour shown on the website.

The cork/rubber sole, which is lightweight, durable, attractive and ideal on non-slippery surfaces. Note the brass wire screws. A quick inspection with my finger detected at least two sharp, protruding screws, although it was in the waist area so hopefully won't catch on carpet. Exercise caution when performing this test, as the sharp edges may cut your finger.

AUSTRALIAN OWNED - AUSTRALIAN MADE?
Not anymore. Perhaps that particular liner is old stock.

 

[nh10222]

They are looking better after oiling and removal of the frilly flaps. Filson Boot Oil Finish was applied, darkening the leather considerably, although it is not so obvious in the photo. Then, it was time to go for a little walk around the house. So far, they are one of the most comfortable pairs in my collection, which is a pleasant surprise.

Some of the flaws in the leather are still visible post oiling, including some odd marks, and crinkling around the toe where the upper goes into the welt, either arising from the use of an imperfect hide or damage during manufacturing, or both. Put it this way - if they were $500 or more I'd be calling them factory seconds. At their lower price point, with their rugged purpose and comfortable fit in mind, I'm willing to let it slide, because I'm a nice person.


R.M. Williams doesn't seem to offer a boot like this - almost everything in their collection is a Chelsea boot - but if it did, it would have to be >$100 more than what these retail for, although I'd expect better finishing, relatively flawless leather without the marks and other imperfections and of course they would be made in Australia. So, given the lower labour costs in Vietnam compared to Australia, and with the imperfections in mind, I can't honestly say they were a bargain.

Interesting cork-like texture of the cork/rubber sole.

Imperfections in the heel area

Imperfections in the toe area