HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

[Encore]

Spoiler: more

 

[Thin White Duke]

x Sartoria Carrara: Sport coat in grey herringbone flannel

"An incredibly versatile jacket, at ease with tailoring or with denim. We wanted to give the vibe of a tweed jacket but in a softer and lighter fabric, easier to wear through a range of temperature. Drapers Opalis jacketing is perfect for this and the epitome of the Italian mill's sensibility...

nomanwalksalone.com

Nah this would be a step backwards IMO. Look at those low gorge wide lapels like something off a suit Richard Nixon would wear. Very dated and not flattering.

As for lapel width we are all allowed our preferences of course but a general convention which probably has its roots in aesthetically appealing proportions is for lapels to end one third to one half of the width of the shoulder so the original jacket falls within that scope.

It’s no secret that I lean towards slim lapels but it’s been a pet peeve of mine for ages that SF seems to **** over wide lapels as if the 1970s never happened (they did! I was there and never want to go back!) meanwhile people posting not even skinny but just slim lapels are so often given negative critique and I’ve always found that bias baffling. As is so often the case avoidance of extremes at either end of the spectrum usually brings about the best results. @WoolyLamb ’s jacket has lapels approx one third the width of the chest and certainly looks proportionate.

 

[WoolyLamb]

From the knowledge I have gathered it seems the classic standard was/is 3.5 inches subject to jacket sizes. From there the acceptable variance that i found was to be within an .5 inch difference larger or smaller. From my own experiments that has felt right for me at a 41R size. I have tried sizes on the skinny, narrow, standard, and wider (4 inch) widths. For me the thought of having a 4 inch seemed comical until I tried it with a concave or straight belly. It just felt right with the eye, but it did take getting used to since I was not used to seeing it regularly let alone wearing it.

Now I am more attentive to the lapel size especially depending on the jacket styling. I don’t mind a more standard 3.5 on a two button. Just seems more modern in some ways. Anything with a 3 roll 2 buttoning setup either in southern Italian or Ivy style I prefer larger. It just seems to fit there better.

Just my two cents on the subject. I feel lucky to have found what I like so quickly in my own journey (albeit late in the game). It has also happened quickly in the grand scheme of things. Had I been younger during the beginning of this journey I am sure I would have wasted money and not necessarily arrived at this state now.

 

[acconrad]

Today i chose a casual style.

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I think the hi-beat 36000 is the only steel watch I would buy. How do you like it?

 

[philosophe]

AAS, I like the pink & brown combo in principle, but the cord jacket looks better with pants with some texture and depth of color. Overall, I lpreferred the pink & gray look you posted earlier.

 

[psb]

I think the hi-beat 36000 is the only steel watch I would buy. How do you like it?

I have the watch for only 4 days now. The finish is brilliant and it seems to be very accurate.
But its too early to give a well-founded rating. Lets wait another month or two.

 

[lindenbaum]

Double Breast!

 

[upr_crust]

The weather in NYC is predicted to turn lightly wet later on today. This is the first day after returning from vacation in which I've dressed up - the reason is a party at the Frick museum this evening. I am wearing a suit I've not worn in a while, and after the excesses of two weeks abroad, the waist of the trousers has shrunk considerably . . .

Suit & shirt - Brooks Brothers MTM
Tie - Charvet
Cufflinks - The Persian Shop, NYC
Braces - KKandJay
Vintage watch chain
Pocket square - Brooks Brothers
Shoes - Florsheim Royal Imperial (Magnanni)
Raincoat - Burberry
Scarf - Paul Stuart
Hat - Weatherproof

Spoiler

 

[An Acute Style]

Teasing some spring colors. View attachment 2136025 View attachment 2136029 View attachment 2136031

My two cents. Jacket is fine. I’m more disappointed in the shirt collar.

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Spoiler: more

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Great suit. The button stance and jacket length balance well with the pant hem. Beautiful shoes.

AAS, I like the pink & brown combo in principle, but the cord jacket looks better with pants with some texture and depth of color. Overall, I lpreferred the pink & gray look you posted earlier.

Agreed. I wore the lambswool cardigan to add more texture. I have dark green flannel trousers, but didn’t feel like wearing them.

Double Breast!

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The lapel gorge on this suit looks crazy high. I hope it’s just the angle.

The weather in NYC is predicted to turn lightly wet later on today. This is the first day after returning from vacation in which I've dressed up - the reason is a party at the Frick museum this evening. I am wearing a suit I've not worn in a while, and after the excesses of two weeks abroad, the waist of the trousers has shrunk considerably . . .

Suit & shirt - Brooks Brothers MTM
Tie - Charvet
Cufflinks - The Persian Shop, NYC
Braces - KKandJay
Vintage watch chain
Pocket square - Brooks Brothers
Shoes - Florsheim Royal Imperial (Magnanni)
Raincoat - Burberry
Scarf - Paul Stuart
Hat - Weatherproof

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Spoiler

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Perfect.

 

[lindenbaum]

The lapel gorge on this suit looks crazy high. I hope it’s just the angle.

Yeah, it is SuitSupply. Their double breasted jackets tend to have relatively high peaked lapel gorge, but I don't think it is crazy high. Maybe just the angle.

 

[DerekS]

The weather in NYC is predicted to turn lightly wet later on today. This is the first day after returning from vacation in which I've dressed up - the reason is a party at the Frick museum this evening. I am wearing a suit I've not worn in a while, and after the excesses of two weeks abroad, the waist of the trousers has shrunk considerably . . .

Suit & shirt - Brooks Brothers MTM
Tie - Charvet
Cufflinks - The Persian Shop, NYC
Braces - KKandJay
Vintage watch chain
Pocket square - Brooks Brothers
Shoes - Florsheim Royal Imperial (Magnanni)
Raincoat - Burberry
Scarf - Paul Stuart
Hat - Weatherproof

View attachment 2136839

Spoiler

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i havent been on SF in so many years, but checked in today specifically to see if you were still posting Crusty! still killing it!! hope youve been well.

 

[upr_crust]

i havent been on SF in so many years, but checked in today specifically to see if you were still posting Crusty! still killing it!! hope youve been well.

Thank you for that accolade of approval, and yes, I am well - just back from two weeks abroad, during which I got broader - those things happen . . .

 

[WoolyLamb]

@An Acute Style sadly one of the last shirts I bought before enlightenment. Gotta wear them out and replace properly. Unless a rich benefactor comes my way.

 

[Nelton]

Pop of colour on another extremely warm day! Very much looking forward to Winter!

 

[DapperPhilly]