Getting my first Bespoke Savile Row suit (Edward Sexton). Help me choose a fabric/pattern!

[prettybasicdood]

The title says it all. I think the most mileage this suit will get will be at relatives/friends weddings and other formal (but likely non-work) events.

Would really appreciate it if you all could give me examples of patterns and material you really like. Pictures of suits (instead of just fabric) would be super helpful. I’m open to anything really, checks, solids, tweeds.

Also, l am partial towards like an off-white gabardine suit, but I’m told wearing white is frowned upon at weddings. Does that advice still hold?

I live in California if that helps. Looking for something that’s all season, which is probably a 14 oz wool fabric for the golden state. Thanks!

 

[circumspice]

There is a school of thought that says your first bespoke garment with a given tailor should be in a solid to avoid any possible issues with pattern matching/layout as they establish a pattern for you, with the thinking is that they may improve it on subsequent orders.

I did not do that, and lived to tell the tail as a repeat B&Tailor customer, for what it is worth.

I would probably skew formal with Sexton, personally - charcoal or navy suit, or possibly go all out and go dinner suit.

 

[chobochobo]

For your first, presumably of many, suits I would go for something in a staple fabric/ colour that you can wear the hell out of. Something equivalent to a ladies LBD. The 'star' should be in the fit, cut and construction rather than the fabric.

 

[TimothyF]

Unless you're made of money, why would you spend bespoke on something you wear infrequently?

 

[jazznpool]

I’d go for a versatile grey or charcoal grey suit of the finest lightweight wool/silk blend. Check out the new Loro Piana Noblesse book if they offer it. Here’s a the medium dark blue I selected for a suit made by Tam Tailor in Westminster, CA earlier this year. Good luck.

 

[prettybasicdood]

There is a school of thought that says your first bespoke garment with a given tailor should be in a solid to avoid any possible issues with pattern matching/layout as they establish a pattern for you, with the thinking is that they may improve it on subsequent orders.

I did not do that, and lived to tell the tail as a repeat B&Tailor customer, for what it is worth.

I would probably skew formal with Sexton, personally - charcoal or navy suit, or possibly go all out and go dinner suit.

I really like that advice, thanks. I think I'll avoid patterns for my suit. If I really like the final jacket of the suit, I'll likely get a couple of sports jackets made where I can play around with the patterns. I have always wanted a nice houndstooth jacket.

For your first, presumably of many, suits I would go for something in a staple fabric/ colour that you can wear the hell out of. Something equivalent to a ladies LBD. The 'star' should be in the fit, cut and construction rather than the fabric.

That's kind of my dilemma - I already have a bunch of staple fabric/color suits that I'm generally happy with. With my first SR suit, I want it to be something I feel special in (but obviously not obnoxious, and definitely not at the cost of the fit, cut and construction).

Unless you're made of money, why would you spend bespoke on something you wear infrequently?

I wouldn't say I'm made of money. Getting suits made is my vice, and I've always wanted a Sexton suit. Some people like to spend an inordinate amount of money on shoes, others like their watches, and I enjoy my suits ¨̮

I’d go for a versatile grey or charcoal grey suit of the finest lightweight wool/silk blend. Check out the new Loro Piana Noblesse book if they offer it. Here’s a the medium dark blue I selected for a suit made by Tam Tailor in Westminster, CA earlier this year. Good luck.

Thanks, so something in the Super 120s? I've never had a really lightweight suit made, I tend to worry about the drape. In fact I don't think I have any suit under 180, but admittedly they do run hot in July. Are you quite happy with your lightweight fabric suits compared to medium/heavy?

I suppose the indecision I'm facing is that I already have a bunch of navy/dark blue suits, and I'm just kind of bored of them even though they I do love a good blue suit. I'm not really interested in a grey suit, I feel like one can't escape them in a California wedding.

I have been eyeing a dark rust brown suit. I feel like it's versatile, can bo worn both up and down, and it's understated, while also somewhat unique in a crowd of suits. I do worry about styling it, most of my shoes are on the light brown/bourbon side, and I'm not sure how that would look on a dark brown suit.

Can't seem to find the Loro Piana Noblesse collection online. Thanks for sharing that swatch pic, looks like a fantastic choice. Would you mind sharing an image of the final suit?

 

[TimothyF]

Depends on your tastes, your style, how you present to the outside world, and how much wear you would like to get out of this first Savile Row suit. (Keep in mind Edward Sexton recently passed away)

A middle approach would be something like a herringbone, or faint windowpane, that from a distance dissolves into a solid color, or a texture. But upclose has the exciting pattern that sets it apart from a boring business fabric

 

[jazznpool]

I really like that advice, thanks. I think I'll avoid patterns for my suit. If I really like the final jacket of the suit, I'll likely get a couple of sports jackets made where I can play around with the patterns. I have always wanted a nice houndstooth jacket.


That's kind of my dilemma - I already have a bunch of staple fabric/color suits that I'm generally happy with. With my first SR suit, I want it to be something I feel special in (but obviously not obnoxious, and definitely not at the cost of the fit, cut and construction).


I wouldn't say I'm made of money. Getting suits made is my vice, and I've always wanted a Sexton suit. Some people like to spend an inordinate amount of money on shoes, others like their watches, and I enjoy my suits ¨̮



Thanks, so something in the Super 120s? I've never had a really lightweight suit made, I tend to worry about the drape. In fact I don't think I have any suit under 180, but admittedly they do run hot in July. Are you quite happy with your lightweight fabric suits compared to medium/heavy?

I suppose the indecision I'm facing is that I already have a bunch of navy/dark blue suits, and I'm just kind of bored of them even though they I do love a good blue suit. I'm not really interested in a grey suit, I feel like one can't escape them in a California wedding.

I have been eyeing a dark rust brown suit. I feel like it's versatile, can bo worn both up and down, and it's understated, while also somewhat unique in a crowd of suits. I do worry about styling it, most of my shoes are on the light brown/bourbon side, and I'm not sure how that would look on a dark brown suit.

Can't seem to find the Loro Piana Noblesse collection online. Thanks for sharing that swatch pic, looks like a fantastic choice. Would you mind sharing an image of the final suit?

It’s Super 200s cloth. Lightweight. That Loro Piana book new for 2024. Was worth the upcharge.

 

[Mute]

If this is your first Savile Row bespoke suit, then likely it will also be the best suit you will own. That being the case and the fact that you wear your suits infrequently, best to make the most of it with a cloth that will be the most versatile and which you can wear more often than with something that leans more heavily in a specific direction (e.g. too casual/formal, too attention getting).

 

[TheIronDandy]

First of all: congratulations! I'm a long-term customer of another British tailor, but if I was ever going to "cheat" on them it would be with Sexton - the style is sublime.

If you are looking for something 4-season for Cali, I would probably look into a heavier open weave; it'll be airy but the weight will still give it some warmth. I love my 450g fresco trousers, but that's probably too heavy for California. Maybe a fresco in the 300g range? A medium fresco will still have some drape, and it's quite hard-wearing. I would advice against using a super-fancy fabric or anything boldly patterned; the beauty in the Sexton look is in the silhouette: using a less spectacular fabric will let the make and cut shine more.

Since it will mostly be a garment for fancy events, I might be tempted to go for a dinner jacket. That would probably reduce the number of wears you get out of it even further, but damn... Sexton dinner jacket would be something!