For the love of d'Avenza

[kbadgley84]

Thank you! It is a very nice color. Though there's no fabric composition label anywhere. I do wonder, is it either silk, or a wool/mohair blend?

Now that’s a good question. It has a raw silk feel but like you said it could very well be a mohair/wool blend. With a garment of that age it’s hard to tell by feel after so many years of use

 

[vistaprime]

I may be late to the table here but I bought a D'avenza suit, partly from reading the great reviews in this thread. However, when it arrived, I found it boxy and large. The brand seems to run large. I am slim and athletic and have body fat under 10% so my wide shoulders and small waist were not loving the silhouette. Also, the buttons holes are not working holes. Luckily, my tailor was able to alter the suit so it fits almost immaculately. It's a lovely suit now with alterations, but I wouldn't buy D'avenza suits again.

 

[stifler]

I may be late to the table here but I bought a D'avenza suit, partly from reading the great reviews in this thread. However, when it arrived, I found it boxy and large. The brand seems to run large. I am slim and athletic and have body fat under 10% so my wide shoulders and small waist were not loving the silhouette. Also, the buttons holes are not working holes. Luckily, my tailor was able to alter the suit so it fits almost immaculately. It's a lovely suit now with alterations, but I wouldn't buy D'avenza suits again.

That's interesting. My D'Avenza sportcoat is trim fitting. What size did you get?

 

[vistaprime]

40, and I'm usually 38.

 

[AAE]

Most definitely old - but in the best possible way. My point was - essentially - everything that has the cursive script is from the Ralph era. Even some of the block d'Avenza letters (on the tag - that just have the company name and no tag line) are also Ralph. When it's block print letters and "made in italy" on the same internal label, then it's the stuff from 2017 / 18. Avoid that new stuff - it's overpriced, and it's not (necessarily) made by anyone special. Nothing was really made between 2013 and 2016 - it was just bankruptcy. Almost everything that's on Ebay now is from the 2001 - 2012 period. It's the Ralph era. It's 99% cut and sewn by hand by master tailors. Bottom line - you can't go wrong with any of it.

Consider the following four internal labels; what are the differences in quality(if any);

 

[stifler]

Consider the following four internal labels; what are the differences in quality(if any);



View attachment 1873552 View attachment 1873553 View attachment 1873554 View attachment 1873555

This should answer your question:

Suit rating - d'Avenza

THE 1-6 SUIT RATING SYSTEM Full canvas Lapel hand pick stitch Collar entirely handmade Lining shoulder handmade Lining armhole handmade...

davenzaroma.com

 

[AAE]

This should answer your question:

Suit rating - d'Avenza

THE 1-6 SUIT RATING SYSTEM Full canvas Lapel hand pick stitch Collar entirely handmade Lining shoulder handmade Lining armhole handmade...

davenzaroma.com

I saw this however I read in this thread that the “old school” pieces(sold on eBay) were full canvas etc. This website, I assume contains information of the relaunch, no?

 

[stifler]

I saw this however I read in this thread that the “old school” pieces(sold on eBay) were full canvas etc. This website, I assume contains information of the relaunch, no?

I have no idea tbh. Where does one buy D'Avenza? I'm looking to acquire some pieces but the only place I see that has it is eBay.

 

[AAE]

I have no idea tbh. Where does one buy D'Avenza? I'm looking to acquire some pieces but the only place I see that has it is eBay.

The thread mentions the OG pieces are on eBay. The current stuff is garbage. This is why I wanted to be clear about the tags.

 

[ViatoremDiEfa]

Did I miss something? Was the D'Avenza brand relaunched?

 

[thegreatgatsby]

If you see an internal logo that looks like the attached picture, OR a paper hang tag that isn't "directly" attached to the edge of the sleeve and folded over (by thread), then you are looking at the NEW garbage from d'Avenza.

Jonathan Clay has rebooted d'Avezna. To the best of my knowledge, Clay's "new incarnation" of d'Avenza isn't yet for sale. I am incredibly skeptical about Clay. NOT that Clay is illegitimate --- he's a stand-up guy with a TON of clothing industry experience. The problem I have with any "new" form of d'Avenza is that it comes down to:

1. D'Avenza once had the best tailors in Italy making the best ready-to-wear. They don't anymore.

2. D'Avenza has NEVER, and I mean NEVER, been a brand that anyone cared about (outside of a handful of us). The brand has never gotten any traction. Why would Clay make it work? He won't.

There are 4 internal tags that AAE posted above. ALL OF THOSE are good. All of those are "pre-Brand-Amour" and "pre-Jonathan-Clay."

Below (attached) are two photos of what to avoid. If you see anything like this, don't buy it. It's trash. The owner of Blueprint 5 in Rhode Island told me that the "new" d'Avenza stuff is so terribly made that half of it was returned by customers because it fell apart.

It's not just "construction" issues (like canvassing), it's literally "construction issues" (like, it will fall apart into dust).

The TELLTALE sign is the "red cardinal" logo (or mascot/icon) on the hang tag. If you see a red cardinal you are looking at the worst stuff on Earth. The "red cardinal" means it was laser cut by workers for "Brand Amour" who had zero knowledge of clothing manufacturing.

 

[stifler]

That's unfortunate about the decrease in quality from d'Avenza.

 

[thegreatgatsby]

That's unfortunate about the decrease in quality from d'Avenza.

'Tis. The good news is that there were multiple "waves" of liquidation (seems an appropriate term in context), and all of the truly good stuff was sold off to a handful of Ebay sellers who are marking it up "not unreasonably." The bad news? There are very few examples of "new old stock" d'Avenza in two button, flat-front models (if that kind of thing matters to you, which, to me it does). But - for now - the stuff is out there in some quantity, and can be had for between $300 and $600 (the cost of a Kiton or Brioni tie at retail prices).

 

[Voidoid]

Is there any connection between this unknown Simon Ackerman label and D'avenza ?

 

[sipang]

@Voidoid Not sure what the relation was exactly, but at least some of it at some point was definitely made by D'Avenza (same inner labels etc)