Folded Up Shirt Appreciation

[Ricini]

Yes, but I am posting as to do away with the shilling here, not add to it. I'll take down the description, if it pleases, just thought posting deets is what most did. I planned on adding shirts from other makers when I have time.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

You misunderstood my comment. I wasn't accusing you of anything, but simply thought it was interesting to see her shirts as she is a well regarded, yet somewhat obscure, maker who isn't discussed often on SF.

 

[Ricini]

Sorry, ET. don't know why I got a bit defensive there. I really did just want to change the recent tenor of thread. The finishing on Burgos' shirts is quite good, but it may take a bit of work to get the fit you want, though perhaps not more than it does with other makers not named Kabbaz.
R

 

[Shirtmaven]



Burgos
"Peach" Chambray from Will 
Forgive my half-hearted ironing. 

ironing has nothing to do with this.
this loose weave fabric was stitch with too high of an SPI

the blue stripe shirt looks fine

 

[Ricini]

Shirtmaven,

Are you referring to the puckering on the placket? It is a bit exaggerated in the photo. I am curious about how a high SPI affects certain shirtings, though. Would you explain further (again, just curious)? The chambray is not nearly as open as the voile, yet the chambray does pucker a bit more. Wouldn't the voile pucker as much or more, then?

The Bengal is a standard 100s broadcloth from the Spanish firm textivea.
Thanks,
R

 

[Shirtmaven]



Shirtmaven,

Are you referring to the puckering on the placket? It is a bit exaggerated in the photo. I am curious about how a high SPI affects certain shirtings, though. Would you explain further (again, just curious)? The chambray is not nearly as open as the voile, yet the chambray does pucker a bit more. Wouldn't the voile pucker as much or more, then?

The Bengal is a standard 100s broadcloth from the Spanish firm textivea.
Thanks,
R

I will not ignore this but will write more later.

the blue Popelin Ingles Novedad from Textiber a spanish mil in Barcelona that is under appreciated.
at the moment, everything is still made there and nothing is outsourced Popeline extra is a 120/2 that is also great.

there basics are just as good if not better then thomas mason silverline.

 

[Ricini]

SM,

I'd never heard of Textiber until I moved here, and I found them a good replacement for Thomas Mason, which Burgos doesn't stock. In fact, Textiber doesn't seem to be quite so hit or miss as TM, and provides similar value.

Do reply about the puckering when you've time.

Thanks,
R

PS I am beginning to agree with you about SG's chambray. Though I like the color and hand of the two I have, I'm not certain they are going to hold up terribly well. What's more, I think nearly anything by Alumo is a better choice, as they are at similar price points. My problem is that a good deal of Alumo's shirtings are a bit too precious for me, and tend to look better under worsteds anyway, which I rarely wear. Any suggestions for something with a bit of texture to wear under soft and textured odd jackets? Who makes good pinpoints and oxfords that don't lean too closely toward workwear?

R

 

[Shirtmaven]

as you know, I am not a fan of the SG chambray. if It was $10 a yard, I would not comment.

was the SG fabric washed and dried prior to cutting.
the SG fabric is a loose weave. should be sewn with about 18spi. it looks as if the machine was still set for 21spi.
the tight needle will not move no mater how much you stretch.
not sure what sort of thread is being used.


Textiber has a great selection of sport shirt fabric. order it with confidence.

 

[Ich_Dien]



Awesome Barba shirt, Ich.

Thanks, mate. Wish I could sell just one in a 43.

 

[luxire]

as you know, I am not a fan of the SG chambray. if It was $10 a yard, I would not comment.
was the SG fabric washed and dried prior to cutting.
the SG fabric is a loose weave. should be sewn with about 18spi. it looks as if the machine was still set for 21spi.
the tight needle will not move no mater how much you stretch.
not sure what sort of thread is being used.
Textiber has a great selection of sport shirt fabric. order it with confidence.

On the second image, the close-up, the spi does not seem to be so high. On the right side of the placket, just below the neck band, some bad stitching seems to be visible.

The wash-dry seems to be the more likely reason.

The shirt does look comfortable though.

 

[luxire]

Navy stripes on white. Beautiful fabric by Monti 2/140

 

[Playlife]

Just picked up my first shirts from Jantzen in Hong Kong - after more than 10 years of travelling to HK I finally wanted to try tailormade shirts...

 

[dkaardal]

Just started on my MTM shirt journey - I've ordered one from ModernTailor, one form iTailor, and as of last night two from Luxire. Here's the first one to arrive!




This was the $20 Blue Oxford intro shirt (ModernTailor)


-Donovan

 

[in stitches]

always wanted to post here. i hope im doing this right.

 

[ShayaEXQT]

^ Keep up the good work sunshine.