ENGINEERED GARMENTS SS20

[London]

Born to Run: Keizo Shimizu + Daiki Suzuki’s Americana Dream

Speaking about their past and future, the Japanese designers muse over making clothing that surpasses genre and generation.

www.ssense.com

 

[schuermang]

Did they make a ground pant iteration this season? If not, what's the closest model to that style?

 

[Wandering]

I've just received my Khaki Loiter Jacket.
This will be one of my most regretful returns. It was the first EG jacket I ever tried and according to the EG-fit the small size I ordered would have been the right size for me.

But it's not. I dislike the roominess. And that's the only negative I have. For the colour, the shade of the horn buttons, the collar, ...I find it all so perfect.

But why oh why isn't it slightly more tailored in fit. It could have been my perfect jacket, alas.

 

[noob in 89]

I've just received my Khaki Loiter Jacket.
This will be one of my most regretful returns. It was the first EG jacket I ever tried and according to the EG-fit the small size I ordered would have been the right size for me.

But it's not. I dislike the roominess. And that's the only negative I have. For the colour, the shade of the horn buttons, the collar, ...I find it all so perfect.

But why oh why isn't it slightly more tailored in fit. It could have been my perfect jacket, alas.

That sucks, but maybe post a pic before sending it back. From experience, there’s a decent chance the internets will feel it looks good.

 

[Wandering]

That sucks, but maybe post a pic before sending it back. From experience, there’s a decent chance the internets will feel it looks good.

It's already packed for return postage, sorry.
But yeah, I'm no EG expert but it has a loose boxy fit . Probably typical for EG?

Generally I go for the officer/ gentleman type of look, subdued, detailed and an unstructured (semi-) tailored fit.
I was hoping this jacket would have had a somewhat tailored fit as it has many style elements of officer attire.

 

[evolsirhc]

The loiter jacket is supposed to fit relaxed. If you want something more tailored, try an andover.

 

[0ldb0y]

It's already packed for return postage, sorry.
But yeah, I'm no EG expert but it has a loose boxy fit . Probably typical for EG?

Generally I go for the officer/ gentleman type of look, subdued, detailed and an unstructured (semi-) tailored fit.
I was hoping this jacket would have had a somewhat tailored fit as it has many style elements of officer attire.

what's your height/weight? I'm thinking about picking a loiter down the line in XS or S but I like a relaxed fit.

 

[Wandering]

what's your height/weight? I'm thinking about picking a loiter down the line in XS or S but I like a relaxed fit.

About 72 kg for 176cm. If you're more or less the same, the size S will suit you well (with the loose fit in mind).

 

[Wandering]

The loiter jacket is supposed to fit relaxed. If you want something more tailored, try an andover.

I don't really like the odd pockets on the andover.

 

[noob in 89]

It's already packed for return postage, sorry.
But yeah, I'm no EG expert but it has a loose boxy fit . Probably typical for EG?

Generally I go for the officer/ gentleman type of look, subdued, detailed and an unstructured (semi-) tailored fit.
I was hoping this jacket would have had a somewhat tailored fit as it has many style elements of officer attire.

The loiter jacket is supposed to fit relaxed. If you want something more tailored, try an andover.

I assume you guys are talking about the most recent version, but even the Loiter jacket changes somewhat. I think the good news, just based on the ones I’ve tried, is if you like the fit, the larger sizes don’t seem to differ all that much from the smaller ones. (Like sometimes just an extra 1” in the chest for each size up). It’s nice if you’re trying to hunt down a second hand version.

 

[El QUaG]

I've just received my Khaki Loiter Jacket.
This will be one of my most regretful returns. It was the first EG jacket I ever tried and according to the EG-fit the small size I ordered would have been the right size for me.

But it's not. I dislike the roominess. And that's the only negative I have. For the colour, the shade of the horn buttons, the collar, ...I find it all so perfect.

But why oh why isn't it slightly more tailored in fit. It could have been my perfect jacket, alas.

The Loiter Jacket is definitely one of looser fits in the current dressier (or tailored) EG jacket designs. It's a relaxed and boxy fit.

If you're after with that "tailored" aesthetic I think you're looking for, I recommend the Andover or Bedford Jacket. Both are a perennial design, with Khaki a regular colour.

Spring/Summer 2017 was the last season EG included front darting in the Andover Jacket. The fits prior to this period are much sharper, slimmer and fitted. All recent versions are slightly boxier (no where near as extreme as Loiter Jacket).

Note that EG unfortunately varies in sizing every year/season. It's a continual point of contention and frustration for me personally. So a size Medium Andover in 2016 is very different in shape and fit in the same model jacket in 2020. This applies to everything - pants, shirts, jackets etc.

Try on in store if you can, otherwise always triple check measurements online (since they will vary from store to store).

 

[mmmargeologist]

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[email protected] if you'd like to purchase prior to me getting product shots online! 1st delivery

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[badeggcat]

Note that EG unfortunately varies in sizing every year/season.

Never understood the logic behind this. Please don’t say it’s based on Daiki’s fluctuating weight cause that’s even more illogical. Is it that hard to use another model name (eg. Andover+) when there is a change in fitting?

 

[El QUaG]

Never understood the logic behind this. Please don’t say it’s based on Daiki’s fluctuating weight cause that’s even more illogical. Is it that hard to use another model name (eg. Andover+) when there is a change in fitting?

If the design and cut of a model is exactly the same, but dimensions are slightly different, then it would make sense to leave the name unchanged.

I remember the interview (not sure where, but it was a few years back now) and Daiki mentioned the fit of designs changing intentionally because it was all based on his body, which naturally fluctuates and changes with age. Of course the fit and porportions is designed to change with the times; from the slim fits of mid 2010s (it was trendy then!) to the loose and relaxed fits we see today. It's a part of the brands' ongoing evolution.

Daiki talks about the "oversized" fits in a High Snobiety interview for SS19 Uniqlo collaboration last year:
"For EG, the collection fluctuates every season, as much as it does not look that way from afar. The fit of course, constantly changes every season. I have been working on an oversized fit now for a few seasons, so it was only a natural extension for this project to reflect the mode and mood of our mainline collection. "

I'm sure like a lot of you guys out there, it's annoying as hell to find the "right" size which varies from season to season. I am however enjoying the loose and relaxed fits from the last couple seasons. It was difficult at first to combine with all the slimmer and tailored pieces of 5 years ago, but as I slowly amass more current items, I'm finding more outfits and combinations are coming together.

 

[patrick_b]

I've just received my Khaki Loiter Jacket.
This will be one of my most regretful returns. It was the first EG jacket I ever tried and according to the EG-fit the small size I ordered would have been the right size for me.

But it's not. I dislike the roominess. And that's the only negative I have. For the colour, the shade of the horn buttons, the collar, ...I find it all so perfect.

But why oh why isn't it slightly more tailored in fit. It could have been my perfect jacket, alas.

That's too bad. Hope you find what you are looking for.

The Loiter really is THE perfect jacket for me. I'm usually an XL in Bedfords, most shirts, etc. I went with a L Navy wool flannel from a few seasons back. It's one of my all time favorites and replaced the Bedford I'd been wearing for the previous 6-ish years.