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JFWR

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I would think someone working within their sales team could answer that more accurately than any of us could. We all would just be speculating.

That said, I certainly can't imagine their operation was in the scale of a Florsheim or Bostonian. The quality would have been horrendous. They would have next to little or no control over anything. Keeping the operation in-house and manageable yields a far superior product. I mean they were a Bespoke operation at some point.

I might query Edward Green and ask them about that.

Edward Green also used to be handwelted exclusively too, yes?
 

shoefan57

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The 606 is fundamentally a wider, blockier version of the 202, so yes, they fit more or less the same. Owning a Chelsea in 202 and a Dover in 606, I find both just about perfect for my foot shape.

As for the modern day, razor edged bespoke shoe aesthetic ala Gaziano or Yohei Fukuda, it's really one I find excessively aggressive and lacking in subtlety. Great for Instagram, but I cannot imagine wearing them.


Trying to justify why a shoe is considered iconic and a benchmark of its genre is about as fruitful of an endeavor as trying to justify why Beethoven's 5th is a better symphony than Mozart's 41st, except unlike music, shoe design has no established, concrete language.

I think the fact that countless Dover and Galway imitations exist, complete with pie crust and arrowhead, is proof enough that they are inextricable from the shoe zeitgeist as it stands.
This makes the point that there is more to the fit of a last than the width and length. As I’ve written above, my experience is that the 606 is narrower and shorter than the 202. I hate it tbh. Feet are complex things for sure!
 

shoefan57

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I would think someone working within their sales team could answer that more accurately than any of us could. We all would just be speculating.

That said, I certainly can't imagine their operation was in the scale of a Florsheim or Bostonian. The quality would have been horrendous. They would have next to little or no control over anything. Keeping the operation in-house and manageable yields a far superior product. I mean they were a Bespoke operation at some point.
I think they were always a small operation. They used to be known as a maker of country shoes and boots and had just a small city collection - rather like Trickers were until they expanded their “ Town Collection “. The Dover, so the shop told me some twenty years ago, was regarded as very much a country shoe, always sold with a double leather sole and made with Chestnut calf or a Country Calf.
 

BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes

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I remember a long-time member offhand mention that in the aughts the Dover was looked at as an ugly duckling by the forum regulars at that time. Let alone what the rest of the shoe buying public thought (my guess is, not much).

I do not believe this disdain was limited to or solely directed towards the Dover. That aversion was towards SpTDs in general.
 

BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes

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I think they were always a small operation. They used to be known as a maker of country shoes and boots and had just a small city collection - rather like Trickers were until they expanded their “ Town Collection “. The Dover, so the shop told me some twenty years ago, was regarded as very much a country shoe, always sold with a double leather sole and made with Chestnut calf or a Country Calf.
I definitely remember something similar was told to me as well in London. The calf leather was thicker to be able to withstand harsher conditions. Throughout the years, it has become more of a city shoe.
 

jonathanS

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Anthony Cleverly is made by Edward Green.
Im quite skeptical of that, having worn both shoes. I’ve heard that, but I don’t think so. Totally different shoes, totally different feel & totally different last. not to mention, smaller things like the heel is slightly pitched, nails in the toe area etc.

Even if it’s made by eg, it’s a totally different shoe. It feels a lot lighter than a traditional eg or g&g.

Really you think CJ is overrated? You mean both their lines (HG & BG)?

yes, both. I think Alfred Sargent are a better bang for your buck. Not sure about tlb Mallorca or other newer brands. i always liked Alfred Sargent for affordable gy welted shoes. even the shoes made by the armoury with yohei fukuda are a better value.
 

BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes

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Im quite skeptical of that, having worn both shoes. I’ve heard that, but I don’t think so. Totally different shoes, totally different feel & totally different last. not to mention, smaller things like the heel is slightly pitched, nails in the toe area etc.

Even if it’s made by eg, it’s a totally different shoe. It feels a lot lighter than a traditional eg or g&g.



yes, both. I think Alfred Sargent are a better bang for your buck. Not sure about tlb Mallorca or other newer brands. i always liked Alfred Sargent for affordable gy welted shoes. even the shoes made by the armoury with yohei fukuda are a better value.
The shoes would be made to the specs indicated by GC. Consequently, they wouldn't look or feel like an EG product.
 

bespoken pa

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EG is by far my favorite makers as it's where my aesthetic preferences and my desired level of quality intersect. GG are constructed every bit as good as EG however the majority of their styles are too fashion forward for my tastes. Same with St.Crispin. EGs level of personalization with their mto program resonates with me. GG does a good job with it as well but their prices tend to go north quick. For something to be a a value to me I have to actually the shoe first regardless of how well it's constructed. Buy what you like and avoid purchasing things you don't really want because they're cheaper. Save your money and get what you want.
 

jonlam1234

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As a mild fan boy of EG, I usually always come to their defense. As @Jmr928 mentioned, everyone defines value differently. Some may agree while others disagree.
Which is absolutely fine.
The very idea of value breeds healthy debate.

I believe EG is unapologetic in their pricing. You think their product is expensive or not worthy of their valuation, and they would suggest you look elsewhere. You wish to purchase their product, and they'll fetch you a pair in a last, leather, color, & size that suits you.

Interestingly enough, they produce a pair of split toe derbies and an officer field boot that are generally regarded by most (not all) as the epitome of that style. Those two styles produced by EG are what all iterations of that style are measured against. How should one value the best version of a style of shoe?
I must confess after getting the Dover and Galway I lost interest in a lot of boots and sp derbies
 

symphvaria

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I must confess after getting the Dover and Galway I lost interest in a lot of boots and sp derbies
I find Edward Green's shoe offerings so convincing that I find it hard to pursue other manufacturers. Between the Chelsea, Galway, Dover, Piccadilly, Belgravia and Newmarket, the basic forms are so thoroughly covered and to such a high level that it's hard not to feel satiated with just that.
 

Nickd

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Wow, I started something with my value comment! To contextualise what I meant by it, I was thinking in relation to C&J as an example - at twice the price,are you getting twice the shoe? I don’t believe so.

Is value the most important thing though? Clearly not - to me it’s a mixture of quality and aesthetics. I’ve got lots of pairs of EG and little of other brands, I’m a massive fan and consider them the best RTW brand.
 

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