Edward Green Appreciation: Pictures, Info, and Where to Buy

[DWFII]

Interesting. For years, various members have written on the forum that EG, Lobb and maybe others get one pair per hide. A quick google search shows places saying EG gets 2-3 pairs per hide, such as here. I wonder how many pairs other companies might get. @ntempleman mentions that bespoke makers waste about 70% of a hide.

I am sure that more than one pair of shoes can be gotten from a calfskin...esp. since what is labeled a "calf" these days is, generally, speaking older, coarser, and larger than calfskins of bygone days. I think it's Thornton who says that in the 50's (?) premium calf would have been less than six square feet. And getting more than one pair out of such a skin forces the maker to use offal rather than prime.

Even today with calfskins being so much larger (12-20 sq. ft.) less than 30% of that is number one much less prime grade. Yes, a second pair can be obtained from such skins but they will not be prime...may even be somewhat questionable quality in areas such as the counter or parts of the quarters.

That said, most bespoke makers live and die on their reputations for quality and the superlative...to deliver a pair of shoes that were commissioned as "best of the best" but in fact are not even #1 is dishonest and a recipe for disaster.

And why should a bespoke maker do that? If the whole skin is not paid for (including a margin for risk, replacement and inflation) then the maker's business model is flawed.

And yes, sometimes the waste can be used for other purposes--sockliners, etc, even belts. But using upper leather for linings is not best practices with leathers that are 'finished'... as most upper leathers are. If nothing else, the tendency to be hot and/or to rot out sooner than anticipated is very real.

 

[ReppTiePrepster]

Cross post from Boots, boots, boots - for boot guys only…

First foray into EG. Thanks to Steve at Gentlemen’s Footwear. I was a bit concerned about sizing for the 82 last, but they fit my foot perfectly! Galway in Dark Brown Utah and Mocha suede. It’s a little too warm and I’ve been sidelined with a knee injury, to get good quality pictures outdoors. But here they are…

 

[florent]

That makes sense. So is the channel making machine different for rubber soles as for leather, or the same for both?

In a repair shop they would use the same in my experience. I don't know about the industry

 

[DWFII]

FWIW, It is possible to use a standard curved needle outsole stitching machine (the kind commonly seen in repair shops) to cut a channel into a rubber outsole. This is done simultaneously with stitching the outsole. And, effectively it both hides and protects the stitching in a way that a simple groove, much less stitching aloft, can never do.

The trick is to apply a thin layer of oil or a cream conditioner--I use a saddle dressing (R.M. Williams, IIRC)--to the bottom of the outsole before the stitching (and channel cutting) begins.

This facilitates the ease with which the presserfoot and channel knife moves over and through the rubber.

It's much harder to do that (maybe impossible) with a deep lug sole, however.

 

[The False Prophet]

Many years go, when I was a young and broke junior lawyer, I tried a pair of Chelsea 82s and fell in love. Alas, I would have loved them to death, as my budget wouldn’t have stretched a second pair for rotation. I copped 3 pairs of C&Js which were dirt cheap back then, and got on with life.

More recently, I’ve been wearing Carminas, but they’re not really cutting it either. So, I am belatedly looking to get back on the EG train.

What has me vexed is sizing. I have pretty normal feet save for a high instep. I tried a 6.5/7 Chelsea which fit well albeit with a bit of lace gap, however that would have been on the old lasts. From what I can gather, the new ones are more voluminous, but does that extend to a more generous instep? And, will going to an F width potentially help?

 

[barutanseijin]

Many years go, when I was a young and broke junior lawyer, I tried a pair of Chelsea 82s and fell in love. Alas, I would have loved them to death, as my budget wouldn’t have stretched a second pair for rotation. I copped 3 pairs of C&Js which were dirt cheap back then, and got on with life.

More recently, I’ve been wearing Carminas, but they’re not really cutting it either. So, I am belatedly looking to get back on the EG train.

What has me vexed is sizing. I have pretty normal feet save for a high instep. I tried a 6.5/7 Chelsea which fit well albeit with a bit of lace gap, however that would have been on the old lasts. From what I can gather, the new ones are more voluminous, but does that extend to a more generous instep? And, will going to an F width potentially help?

Feet can and do change over the years. Mine have. Try a pair on if can.

 

[Scuppers]

Many years go, when I was a young and broke junior lawyer, I tried a pair of Chelsea 82s and fell in love. Alas, I would have loved them to death, as my budget wouldn’t have stretched a second pair for rotation. I copped 3 pairs of C&Js which were dirt cheap back then, and got on with life.

More recently, I’ve been wearing Carminas, but they’re not really cutting it either. So, I am belatedly looking to get back on the EG train.

What has me vexed is sizing. I have pretty normal feet save for a high instep. I tried a 6.5/7 Chelsea which fit well albeit with a bit of lace gap, however that would have been on the old lasts. From what I can gather, the new ones are more voluminous, but does that extend to a more generous instep? And, will going to an F width potentially help?

I am a F width, when the old wooden lasts got the boot i went down half a size.
RE: gap, you really need find a local stockist to try them on.

 

[BBSlayer]

Amazing collection.

 

[flylikeneagle]

DOAK and walnut CC Galway on 82D.

 

[nishant]

Dover in unlined tobacco suede …

 

[Mojolikescocoa]

Ambleside - Storm Waxed Suede 303 - GMTO - 50% deposit

We're making a special version of Ambleside on the new 303-last, with stormwelt, Ridgeway sole, and Storm waxed suede - leather pictured here. Fit-wise, the 303 is like the classic 202, but with a rounder and more casual toe-shape. Made on the 303-last, available in any width.Storm waxed suede...

shoesofstefan.com

303 on storm suede, a casual waxed eg, oh wax me

 

[te0o]

Recently I had the idea to get a pair of black calf Belgravias to go with some smarter odd jacket and trouser outfits.

For some reason I wasn't truly taken with the Belgravias when I tried them on. I also realise they’d have somewhat limited use outside of grey trousers and navy jacket combinations where the dark oak already works quite well.

I still had an itch I wanted to scratch though and forever I’ve been eyeing the mink suede Piccadilly.

So today I bought these babies, with a leather sole.

The rubber soled version seemed a bit rougher, although more practical. Really happy with the mink suede though.

Fit-wise, they are higher on the heel and the sides than the Belgravia on the same last making them a bit more secure on the foot. Also better for people with lower insteps like me because the vamp is taller too. The only other difference is that they are more roomy in the ball area compared to the Belgravia, likely due to the suede (?), which I’m slightly worried about. It’s not excessive, but I am a bit afraid that as they are broken in this will worsen. Hopefully not that much to make them too big. Anyone who has both (Piccadilly and Belgravia) - I’d really be grateful if you could share your experience.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Recently I had the idea to get a pair of black calf Belgravias to go with some smarter odd jacket and trouser outfits.

For some reason I wasn't truly taken with the Belgravias when I tried them on. I also realise they’d have somewhat limited use outside of grey trousers and navy jacket combinations where the dark oak already works quite well.

I still had an itch I wanted to scratch though and forever I’ve been eyeing the mink suede Piccadilly.

So today I bought these babies, with a leather sole.
View attachment 1821320
View attachment 1821321

The rubber soled version seemed a bit rougher, although more practical. Really happy with the mink suede though.

Fit-wise, they are higher on the heel and the sides than the Belgravia on the same last making them a bit more secure on the foot. Also better for people with lower insteps like me because the vamp is taller too. The only other difference is that they are more roomy in the ball area compared to the Belgravia, likely due to the suede (?), which I’m slightly worried about. It’s not excessive, but I am a bit afraid that as they are broken in this will worsen. Hopefully not that much to make them too big. Anyone who has both (Piccadilly and Belgravia) - I’d really be grateful if you could share your experience.

Great that you went with my suggestion of selecting this color suede. You will find that when you don't know what to use for a pairing this suede seems to be a good answer to the "what to pair" question. Nice pick up 👍

 

[dukenukem4ever]

Recently I had the idea to get a pair of black calf Belgravias to go with some smarter odd jacket and trouser outfits.

For some reason I wasn't truly taken with the Belgravias when I tried them on. I also realise they’d have somewhat limited use outside of grey trousers and navy jacket combinations where the dark oak already works quite well.

I still had an itch I wanted to scratch though and forever I’ve been eyeing the mink suede Piccadilly.

So today I bought these babies, with a leather sole.
View attachment 1821320
View attachment 1821321

The rubber soled version seemed a bit rougher, although more practical. Really happy with the mink suede though.

Fit-wise, they are higher on the heel and the sides than the Belgravia on the same last making them a bit more secure on the foot. Also better for people with lower insteps like me because the vamp is taller too. The only other difference is that they are more roomy in the ball area compared to the Belgravia, likely due to the suede (?), which I’m slightly worried about. It’s not excessive, but I am a bit afraid that as they are broken in this will worsen. Hopefully not that much to make them too big. Anyone who has both (Piccadilly and Belgravia) - I’d really be grateful if you could share your experience.

Are these unlined or lined?

I'm kind of debating whether to get an unlined loafer from EG. Does anyone have any suggestions regarding sizing of unlined vs lined loafers on the 184 last? I'm usually a 7 E in all EG, should I stick with a 7 E in unlined Picca / Belgra or size down .5 and go with 6.5 E because it's "unlined?" Thanks y'all!

 

[te0o]

Are these unlined or lined?

Lined.

I never really understood the craze for unlined shoes.