double breasted suit: out of style?

[epa]

Originally Posted by Dormouse

Speaking of, doesn't Humphrey Bogart look great in one?

Courtest of FNB.


I do not really follow this "6x2" and "6x1" discussions above, but that may be because I am quite ignorant of sartorial terminology.
Now, as far as I understand, the DB suits (isn't one an overcoat?) have a 3x2 button arrangement, that is, three rows with two buttons.
Now, row 1 (counted from the top) appears to be merely decorative. The "functional" buttons appear to be the left-hand ones (from where we look at the photos) in rows 2 and 3 (counted from the top). On SB suits, you only button button 2 (and, maybe, 1). Now, here it looks like the button to button is button 3 (the lowest one) and, maybe, button 2.
That is, are buttoning rules different for DB suits than for SB suits?
Please, accept my apologies for my ignorance.
I am concerned about this matter because I have no DB suits (I hade some cheap ones years ago, with Pierre Cardin labels and with cloth mostly comprising pol---ter, and I also had a really badly fitted woolen one, but I got rid a long time ago, because of their bad fit and quality) and I really like the way DB suits look. Here in Madrid I almost never see DB suits, but I will definitely get one, maybe next autumn. I am tall and (a bit too) slim, so I guess that I am the kind of person they are supposed to fit. Maybe I will get a flannel chalk-stripe one.

 

[Nantucket Red]

I love the look of DBs. They impart to the wearer a certain gravitas.

 

[Sator]

6x2 means there are 6 buttons and 2 of these are used to close the coat. All of the pictures above are of 6x2 coats (plus one ovecoat).

6x1 would mean there are 6 buttons and only 1 of these would be used to close the coat. The guy standing next to Bogart has buttoned his overcoat up in a 6x1 fashion. On a true 6x1 coat this would be the only way of buttoning up the coat. This would be unusual and much less common than 4x1 coats.

4x1 coats have a lower point of closure and a longer lapel.

 

[epa]

Thanks, Sator.
What kind of arrangement (6x2, 6x1, 4x1) is considered to look best on a tall guy?
Also, in a 6x1 arrangmente, are you always supposed to button the lowest button (like the guy in the overcoat), or could it also be the middle button?
In a 6x2 button arrangement, could you leave the middle button or the lower button unbuttoned?
Actually, is there a difference between a 6x1 and 6x2 arrangement, or can the same suit be worn both ways (I mean, like in a 3 button SB suit where you can chose whether to button the top button). Basically, I wonder whether the guy in the overcoat could button the middle button INSTEAD OF the lower button...

 

[Sator]

Originally Posted by epa

Thanks, Sator.
What kind of arrangement (6x2, 6x1, 4x1) is considered to look best on a tall guy?
Also, in a 6x1 arrangmente, are you always supposed to button the lowest button (like the guy in the overcoat), or could it also be the middle button?
In a 6x2 button arrangement, could you leave the middle button or the lower button unbuttoned?
Actually, is there a difference between a 6x1 and 6x2 arrangement, or can the same suit be worn both ways (I mean, like in a 3 button SB suit where you can chose whether to button the top button). Basically, I wonder whether the guy in the overcoat could button the middle button INSTEAD OF the lower button...

If you are tall and slender then you have the ideal physique for a DB as they have a widening effect.

The tailor will cut the coat so the lapel length etc are meant to be worn 4x1 or 6x2. I have never seen a 6x1 coat - that would be most odd (I think in the photo you have a 6x2 overcoat where the top button has come undone accidentally). 6x3 was seen in the Edwardian era and is still found on military uniforms. It looks rather columnar - or like a straight up-and-down chimney. Not something I am fond of on a lounge coat.

6x2 is the safest for all concerned. It is said that 4x1 has an elongating effect due to the longer lapel line. However any benefit is offset by a lower button stance which can drop lower than the altitude of the waist suppression. 6x2 means the button stance and the altitude of waist suppression match. The higher button stance also pushes up the eye level to make you look taller.

Unlike a SB coat I think it is fine to do up the bottom button on a DB coat. Otherwise the coat flaps around and looks untidy. However, it is also correct to leave the bottom button undone. It is never correct to wear the coat open (except on sitting down).

 

[Sator]

Single breasted fashion (Pierre Cardin 1970's):



Double breasted style (May 1906!):



Which looks to you like historic costume?

 

[modmica]

Originally Posted by Sator

... I have never seen a 6x1 coat - that would be most odd (I think in the photo you have a 6x2 overcoat where the top button has come undone accidentally). ...

Here is a 6x1 Belvest suit I purchased on ebay. The suit was originally made for and sold by Davide Cenci. The picture is from the ebay listing. I should take of photo of the suit on. I hadn't thought that it was so unusual, but now you have me wondering. Thoughts?

 

[Jovan]

I have a 6x1, but it didn't cost much at the thrift store.

Oh, and I should point out that the other fellow's overcoat button was undone on purpose. A second later in the movie Bogart pulls it down and takes the guy's gun (if my memory serves me right) since he's been followed all day.

 

[LARon]

Originally Posted by edmorel

Actually, I don't think Bogey looks great. The length of the jacket is awfully small which becomes more pronounced in light of the tad long sleeves. The length makes the buttons look wrong, almost as if the jacket was shortened by quite a bit. The guy next to him looks good in that coat, although my preference would be to button the bottom button of the 6x2 configuration. The third gentleman looks great although again, I'd only button the bottom button

I think the spirit behind the comment was on the overall look, rather than on an analysis of the details and peculiarities of fit. In that respect, I think the two photos are good models of the timeless elegance and attractiveness of the DB.

 

[drljva]

For what it's worth, one of this winter season's Kiton suits at BG was a serious-looking grey chalk-striped DB, in 100% cashmere. Absolutely beautiful suit. In fact, it's on sale now (or was this past weekend...)! I would have bought it, but they went flat front on the pants, which I don't care for in a DB...

 

[acidboy]

Fellow member Whoopee posted a while back his DB suit by Chan.

 

[Toiletduck]

didn't whoopee post a Silver DB suit a while back? or do I remember wrong...

 

[Sator]

Originally Posted by modmica

Here is a 6x1 Belvest suit I purchased on ebay. The suit was originally made for and sold by Davide Cenci. The picture is from the ebay listing. I should take of photo of the suit on. I hadn't thought that it was so unusual, but now you have me wondering. Thoughts?
All that is, is a 4x1 with an extra pair of non-functional buttons at the top isn't it. Not so unusual after all. Actually, I found one in my closet with the same configuration! I'd forgotten about it.

These days all of mine are 6x2

 

[Nantucket Red]

I'd love to get a DB made for me, but as I work in a rather conservative Japanese company, I'm afraid I might be seen as upstaging my superiors (not that that would stop me from having one made).

Sator, I imagine you might be able to provide some insight on how the DB is perceived in Japan.

 

[Sator]

Originally Posted by Nantucket Red

I'd love to get a DB made for me, but as I work in a rather conservative Japanese company, I'm afraid I might be seen as upstaging my superiors (not that that would stop me from having one made).

Sator, I imagine you might be able to provide some insight on how the DB is perceived in Japan.

I think you are in a better position to say. I have never worked in Japan.

That said I think go for it. It is a look you are seeing more of in Men's Ex etc.