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JibranK

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Quite a cool look.

One thing that's always interested me is the insistence that DB coats are always to be buttoned (and indeed that's how I have always worn them, myself; I also keep my SB coats buttoned even when wearing a three-piece) but if you look at photos of famous, well-dressed men who were primarily DB wearers, you often do see them wearing them unbuttoned. HM The King is a good example, though of course in recent years he's been favouring his late father's two-button SB style which he used to wear in his university days before his naval commission.
1726783844160.jpeg

Another is the man who I consider one of the nattiest 1940s statesmen, Muhammad Ali Jinnah. (A Henry Poole customer, I believe, though I don't know who his cutter was.)

Bourke-White, Margaret; India Politics; 1946-05.jpg

Incidentally, I remember first seeing a photo of him in a striped suit some 14 or so years ago while researching something at university and had long assumed it was a flannel, but in these high res archival photos, there seems to be a strong twill weave.
Jack Wilkes_0001.jpg

Jinnah - Jack Wilkes.jpg
A worsted flannel, maybe? Or is it just a worsted of such heavy weight (compared to today) that the surface has a very different (and superior) mottled effect?
 

ppk

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Quite a cool look.

One thing that's always interested me is the insistence that DB coats are always to be buttoned (and indeed that's how I have always worn them, myself; I also keep my SB coats buttoned even when wearing a three-piece) but if you look at photos of famous, well-dressed men who were primarily DB wearers, you often do see them wearing them unbuttoned. HM The King is a good example, though of course in recent years he's been favouring his late father's two-button SB style which he used to wear in his university days before his naval commission.
View attachment 2248621
Another is the man who I consider one of the nattiest 1940s statesmen, Muhammad Ali Jinnah. (A Henry Poole customer, I believe, though I don't know who his cutter was.)

View attachment 2248617
Incidentally, I remember first seeing a photo of him in a striped suit some 14 or so years ago while researching something at university and had long assumed it was a flannel, but in these high res archival photos, there seems to be a strong twill weave.
View attachment 2248623
View attachment 2248627 A worsted flannel, maybe? Or is it just a worsted of such heavy weight (compared to today) that the surface has a very different (and superior) mottled effect?
Yeah. I imagine flannel in Karachi would brutal most of the year.
 

kevinsvindland

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Quite a cool look.

One thing that's always interested me is the insistence that DB coats are always to be buttoned (and indeed that's how I have always worn them, myself; I also keep my SB coats buttoned even when wearing a three-piece) but if you look at photos of famous, well-dressed men who were primarily DB wearers, you often do see them wearing them unbuttoned. HM The King is a good example, though of course in recent years he's been favouring his late father's two-button SB style which he used to wear in his university days before his naval commission.
View attachment 2248621
Another is the man who I consider one of the nattiest 1940s statesmen, Muhammad Ali Jinnah. (A Henry Poole customer, I believe, though I don't know who his cutter was.)

View attachment 2248617
Incidentally, I remember first seeing a photo of him in a striped suit some 14 or so years ago while researching something at university and had long assumed it was a flannel, but in these high res archival photos, there seems to be a strong twill weave.
View attachment 2248623
View attachment 2248627 A worsted flannel, maybe? Or is it just a worsted of such heavy weight (compared to today) that the surface has a very different (and superior) mottled effect?

This guy looks like Joseph Goebbels
 

JibranK

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Is there a better double breasted suit fit than this?



Funny that you mention because I was surprised by the narrow wrap on the DB I had made recently then happened to see this and realize there’s precedent.

My eyes are still conditioned to a wider wrap though.
 

JibranK

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Very sharp. I think the DC-era Bond films missed an opportunity to do a DB suit.

Given the terrible costume designs for Bond and Craig's own sense of style, it would have been a fit disaster like his velvet jacket.

Ralph Fiennes wore beautiful suits, though. The only one in the films who did. But the production company is too addicted to ugly Tom Ford crap so Bond doesn't get bespoke.

Mallory-Double-Breasted.jpg

M-Double-Breasted-Chalk-Stripe-Suit.jpg
 

othertravel

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Given the terrible costume designs for Bond and Craig's own sense of style, it would have been a fit disaster like his velvet jacket.

Ralph Fiennes wore beautiful suits, though. The only one in the films who did. But the production company is too addicted to ugly Tom Ford crap so Bond doesn't get bespoke.

Mallory-Double-Breasted.jpg

M-Double-Breasted-Chalk-Stripe-Suit.jpg

Fiennes wore Timothy Everest bespoke - much better fit than DC’s clothes.

That said, Daniel Craig’s Brioni suits/tux in Casino Royale looked great, as did the suits in QOS. For QOS, he wore the Regency cut, which has since been discontinued, unfortunately.

I read that for Skyfall, he requested the suits to fit tight - an idea that maybe sounds good on paper, but fails on execution.

Edit: Here’s a pic of DC wearing Brioni on Casino Royale:

IMG_8424.jpeg
 

JibranK

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Fiennes wore Timothy Everest bespoke - much better fit than DC’s clothes.

That said, Daniel Craig’s Brioni suits/tux in Casino Royale looked great, as did the suits in QOS. For QOS, he wore the Regency cut, which has since been discontinued, unfortunately.

I read that for Skyfall, he requested the suits to fit tight - an idea that maybe sounds good on paper, but fails on execution.

Yeah I originally wrote a longer post specifying such things but ultimately I figured the shorter version worked because Craig himself has pushed the worst looks in the series.
 

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