Did dry cleaning ruin my jacket?

[Shalinar12]

I just got my jacket back from the dry cleaners (2nd time ever dry cleaning it), and now it’s got a bunch of puckering around the seams and bubbles in the lapels (pics 1&2).

I did some research and all the answers say it’s from the adhesive used to fuse the canvas to the shell.

But here’s the thing: this is a deconstructed jacket. There is no canvas inside the jacket, so that can’t be what’s happening here.

For example...
The first image is the outer ticker pocket, where some of the puckering is the worst. Behind that, though, is no canvas; it’s just sewn to another piece of shell on the inside. It’s hard to capture in an image, but pic3 is the backside of pic1:

I know you can’t tell from the image, but there is no fabric in between the two pieces of shell; it’s quite easy to tell when you feel the jacket. There is no canvas. Same thing with the lapel, there’s nothing between the outer fabric and the back of the lapel; no adhesive to come unglued and bubble (I can pull the pieces of fabric away from each other with my fingers, there’s nothing inside or glued to them).

For those who are familiar, it’s a Brunello Cucinelli travel blazer. It’s 85% wool and 15% silk. What little lining there is (mostly in the sleeves) is 100% cupro.

So what’s going on here?

And more importantly, is this jacket ruined forever? Or is there something I can do?

 

[breakaway01]

I think what is going on around the pockets is different from what is going on in the lapel.
The thread in the stitching around the pockets has shrunk relative to the fabric, leading to the puckering that you see.

The lapel does look like it has fusing that has bubbled/partly separated from the fabric. “Canvas” is a layer of material that is not glued to the fabric (sometimes it is sewn to the fabric e.g. in the lapel) but “fusing” is glued to the fabric. Modern fusings can be quite thin and it can be difficult to tell whether it is present by pinching/feeing from the outside. However, there almost certainly is something in the lapel to give it some shape and stiffness—if there was nothing to support the lapel it would be quite floppy and lifeless. I suspect there is fusing in the lapel—however, if so, it should not bubble.

Is there a store that sells Cucinelli in your area? If so I’d take it to them for their opinion. If this is fusing delamination, perhaps you could convince them to replace the jacket especially if it’s not very old.

 

[maxalex]

Derek Guy, who is no longer posting on SF, apparently still lurks here as he put your pics on Twitter with some pointed commentary on the poor quality of this expensive fused jacket.

He’s right of course. It’s possible the cleaners did something disastrous but I would certainly try to get my money back for the jacket.

Cucinelli is best known for its luxurious knitwear, which is all I have ever bought from them--and rarely at that. My bespoke tailor in Rome can make me a hand sewn fully canvased jacket for only $500 more (at the current favorable exchange rate) than this poorly constructed factory job. But he can’t knit sweaters. So...I let my tailor do what he does best and Cucinelli do what they do best.

Major fashion brands often build out their lines beyond their core business, capitalizing on their name across horizontal markets. In many cases they commission products from third parties and may not have the same rigorous QC as they do for their core. I hope you can resolve this.

 

[suitedcboy]

That looks like a suit coat I had that I used as a casual jacket on occasion, run to the doughnut shop on Sunday morning in jeans and T kind of garment. It got dirty and my spouse decided to try washing it. It looked like that after going through washing machine on delicate cycle. I am not sure what sizing/stiffening/starchy something or another they might use in some woolen fabrics but it was sure deconstructed feeling after the wash. The stitching thread seemed to have shrunk and puckered in places all over the coat. Oh, it was a canvassed Canali suit coat so it also had the canvas and other filler stuff slide down a bit into a ball on both front shoulder. My suspicion is that someone thought it was a washable item.

 

[Shehryar]

What I think about this is that the fabric hasn't shrunk but the threat through which it has been sewn has shrunk. That's why this problem has occurred.
Secondly, I don't think that dry cleaning may result in shrinking. Are you sure that it hasn't been washed in a washing machine or so ?

 

[custombytodd]

Yes, the bubbles would indicate delamination of the fusing due to excess heat. Also yes, there is no coming back from that one.

The puckering around the pockets is definitely down to thread shrinking. I haven't seen it happen very often, but I have seen it.

I agree with breakaway above, stop in to a Brunello store if there is one nearby and hope for the best.

 

[Shirtmaven]

Yes, the bubbles would indicate delamination of the fusing due to excess heat. Also yes, there is no coming back from that one.

The puckering around the pockets is definitely down to thread shrinking. I haven't seen it happen very often, but I have seen it.

I agree with breakaway above, stop in to a Brunello store if there is one nearby and hope for the best.

The delamination at the lapel is most concerning. What did your dry cleaner say. Show to cuccinelli

 

[Shalinar12]

Thanks for the helpful responses all.

I bought the jacket used for a great price, so thankfully I’m not out $2500. The downside of this is that a Cucinelli retailer almost certainly would not agree to replace the jacket.

Sounds like the consensus is that there’s some fusing in the lapel that I can’t detect. I’m overseas and I highly doubt there’s a store here that sells Cucinelli but I can look.

For the comments about the thread shrinking and causing the puckering, is that fixable then? Can I take it to a tailor and have them re-sew those areas?

Re: the dry cleaning; I have no way to verify what was or wasn’t done to the jacket. I took it to a dry cleaner in my new city and when I got home after picking it up, the pics are what I found. I could go back and ask the dry cleaner, but again I’d have no way to verify if they’re telling me the truth. I will not use them again.

 

[breakaway01]

Thanks for the helpful responses all.

I bought the jacket used for a great price, so thankfully I’m not out $2500. The downside of this is that a Cucinelli retailer almost certainly would not agree to replace the jacket.

Sounds like the consensus is that there’s some fusing in the lapel that I can’t detect. I’m overseas and I highly doubt there’s a store here that sells Cucinelli but I can look.

For the comments about the thread shrinking and causing the puckering, is that fixable then? Can I take it to a tailor and have them re-sew those areas?

Re: the dry cleaning; I have no way to verify what was or wasn’t done to the jacket. I took it to a dry cleaner in my new city and when I got home after picking it up, the pics are what I found. I could go back and ask the dry cleaner, but again I’d have no way to verify if they’re telling me the truth. I will not use them again.

a proper pressing should fix the thread puckering but there's nothing that will salvage the lapel bubbling.

Are you quite certain the jacket is genuine, since you did not purchase it new?

 

[928S4]

I suppose I'm late to the game here but I was once the chemist for one of the major suppliers of products for the drycleaning trade. I agree the thread shrinkage can be fixed with press and stretch with the application of steam. As for the bubbles, they need to be re-glued. When I was in the business, sizings were generally just some sort of glue. I'd get a reasonably good spray sizing. Spray it on and press it in with a steam iron. See if you can find a teflon iron shoe or use a pressing cloth to discourage shine on the fabric from the iron. Always works for me and I don't see you have much to lose here...