Darts in shirts

[Freddy Vandecasteele]

I have been making shirts for quite a few years, and preferences change, Mainly style, In the 70's everything was very fitted, and over the years clothes taste reached a better confort level.
When I stared reading posts on these forums I was surprised that shirts with back darts seemed like an Inferior product. Over the years my waist mesurement as over taken my chest size ( I am Belgian and like Beer),so I cut the side seems almost straight but I still sew two darts in my shirts, I like the look.
Some people mention it is a cheap alteration, That is not what I am talking about,
I just talk about a shirt made for you and including the dart proccess for fabric reduction, where sometime it is needed most, it is a little more work but I love the result.
Lets all drink a beer and put dart in our shirts "If your at least 21"
Freddy Vandecasteele

 

[Omegablogger]

I don't know what the technical limitations are when aiming for a slim fit via the side seams, but to me darts are for ladies blouses, not mens shirts.

 

[itsstillmatt]

No, darts under the breasts in front are for ladies shirts. Darts in back are for shirts that actually fit.

I don't have any experience in London, but I have never seen a bespoke shirt in Italy that was not made with darts. The same goes for Parisian shirts, but my experience is more limited there.

 

[Omegablogger]

Originally Posted by iammatt

I have never seen a bespoke shirt in Italy that was not made with darts.

I think, as recent entrants to the world of mens clothing, they simply do not have the well of experience to draw from. Maybe in a hundred years or so they will get the hang of it.

 

[mattjames]

Originally Posted by Omegablogger

I think, as recent entrants to the world of mens clothing, they simply do not have the well of experience to draw from. Maybe in a hundred years or so they will get the hang of it.

Can the fit which is achieved through darting be done with skilled cutting of the shirt? Most of my shirts are darted and it can sort of mess up the pattern.

 

[Shirtmaven]

I myself do not use darts. My downfall is sweet cakes and bread. I do like a cold Stella artois from time to time.
I have shirts that were my father's that date back to the early 60's. all of them have darts.
the darts lend a nice touch. the small of the back on most men is hollow this is the best way to remove the fullness that many men complain about. YOu can easily take in as much as 3" at the waist this way. this does not throw off the balance of the shirt the same way that taking those 3" at the side will do.

the upside of darts, is that they can be let out if you find you have been drinking too much beer! and get those 3' back.

Carl

 

[Faded501s]

Carl, are you saying that darts are the best way to remove material from the small of the back because taking in material at the side seams throws the shirt out of balance?

 

[kolecho]

Shirtmaven,

Can darts be added to existing shirts?

 

[TheHoff]

Not a tailor, but most certainly. It is a cheap, quick, reversible fix for a blousy torso.

 

[mack11211]

I think you can dart anything.

If you remove the darts, the holes may show slightly, depending on the fabric, etc.

I like darts.

What interests me is that the purpose of darts in men's shirts may be shifting. Traditionally, darts in men's shirts are in the back, to trim the waist. But nowadays many men, like women, want the male version of a 'shelf' and seek a shirt that will showcase the pecs. So some [European] sportswear brands offer front darting. I've noticed this on Reiss and Matinique.

 

[Shirtmaven]

darts can be added to any basic shirt.
It will not take care of deep armholes and blosey sleeves, but they will trim in any shirt.
And yes they can be let out. after a wash the hole will disapear.

carl

 

[jamesbond]

Originally Posted by Shirtmaven

darts can be added to any basic shirt.
It will not take care of deep armholes and blosey sleeves, but they will trim in any shirt.
And yes they can be let out. after a wash the hole will disapear.

carl

Carl, what will take care of the "deep armholes/blousey sleeves" problem? I have a bunch of RLPL shirts i have picked up over the years that could use some serious work. Would recutting the entire shirt solve the overall bagginess issue or throw darts in the back and try to recut just the armholes?

 

[Cantabrigian]

I've never liked the look of darts myself.

I have some shirts that are as slim as I could want them that don't use darts. I'm sure darts are a good way to make the shirt more trim in the back but I don't think they're the only way to achieve that effect.

 

[teddieriley]

Originally Posted by Cantabrigian

I've never liked the look of darts myself. I have some shirts that are as slim as I could want them that don't use darts. I'm sure darts are a good way to make the shirt more trim in the back but I don't think they're the only way to achieve that effect.
Depends on how you're built. If you have a big upper body and slim waist, as has been suggested, there is only so much you can do without darts to slim the shirt without throwing off the balance and having a funny looking shirt. Of course, if you're skinny, or don't have much shape to your body (i.e. not much difference in girth between your upper body and waist), then perhaps, darts aren't for you. But if you're not a shirtmaker, I don't see how one can suggest they can obtain a slim fit for a particular body type without darts.

 

[Cantabrigian]

Originally Posted by teddieriley

Depends on how you're built. If you have a big upper body and slim waist, as has been suggested, there is only so much you can do without darts to slim the shirt without throwing off the balance and having a funny looking shirt. Of course, if you're skinny, or don't have much shape to your body (i.e. not much difference in girth between your upper body and waist), then perhaps, darts aren't for you. But if you're not a shirtmaker, I don't see how one can suggest they can obtain a slim fit for a particular body type without darts.
I don't know how the two shirtmakers who I have seen do it have done it but I've seen all sorts of torsos (including my own) with drops ranging from negative to 6 - probably 10 inches well fitted without darts. Which suggests to me that there's quite a bit someone can do without darts if that person knows how to cut a dartless shirt well.

Maybe there are instances in which darts are the only option but I have yet to see one of those cases.

Again, I don't know how it's done but I've seen it done and you don't have to be a shirtmaker to observe the absence of darts, the physique that's being fittied and the quality of the resulting fit.

I'm not saying that darts are a shortcut but I don't believe that they are a necessity either.