CM combinations and silhouettes constructive improvement thread

[ValidusLA]

The tie is a silk/cotton blend, and is very chunky/textured. Might work better with a SC.

I appreciate the detailed comments!

Interesting, may be because of the picture it comes across as smooth. Make sense it is chunky to create a knot that large as a FIH.

Regarding sport coat, I'm a big fan of "Austere tie, bold sport coat."

 

[cefiro]

one of my latest that I would appreciate some constructive criticism from

 

[breakaway01]

one of my latest that I would appreciate some constructive criticism from

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Looks really good. I like the suit/shirt/tie combo a lot. I don’t generally like random tie patterns like that but for whatever reason I think it works well here. Might be the camera angle but I wonder whether the jacket buttoning point could be lowered a bit. Shirt collar is maybe a touch high for my own taste but it still looks good on you.

from a separate fit standpoint, wonder whether the jacket needs some correction for shoulder slope.

 

[FlyingHorker]

I really like full body shots, that's the only way you can really get an idea of a silhouette.

 

[comrade]

I dislike roped shoulders. Otherwise suit looks fine.

 

[schraiber]

one of my latest that I would appreciate some constructive criticism from

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I like this a lot, and I'm a fan of the structure and roping. I wonder if maybe slightly wider trousers could match the silhouette of the jacket a bit better

 

[emptym]

Prince Albert / DFIH has the telltale underlap right at the bottom of the tie knot, like so, usually:

Yep. Might be usual. Certainly not always.
I agree on the dislike for peak lapels with patch pockets. I didn't notice the patch pockets on @othertravel's jacket.

one of my latest that I would appreciate some constructive criticism from

Looks great to me. I really like the fabrics and almost all style choices.

There are a couple style choices I wouldn't make, such as roped, pagoda shoulders (which iirc @Despos admires in part because they are very difficult technically), and a high, cutaway collar. But they look nicely done.

I'd probably widen and lengthen the pants about 1 cm each.

The jacket collar seems to ride up a bit, and it and shoulders have some wrinkles that could come out with a good pressing but may need some fixing. That'd be a question for someone like @Despos though.

 

[steveabdn]

one of my latest that I would appreciate some constructive criticism from

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The only thing I’d comment on would be that to my eye, the trouser length could do with being 1/2” longer and possibly slightly wider

 

[Polo Collar]

There are a couple style choices I wouldn't make, such as roped, pagoda shoulders (which @Despos says are very difficult technically, iirc), and a high, cutaway collar. But they look nicely done.

By cut away collar do you mean the very "vertical" gorge? I actually quite like it because it's quite unique in 2022.

 

[breakaway01]

By cut away collar do you mean the very "vertical" gorge? I actually quite like it because it's quite unique in 2022.

Think he was referring to the shirt collar. I mentioned that it seemed high and @emptym was also pointing out that the collar is fairly spread/cutaway in terms of the angle between the collar leaves.

 

[Mirage-]

I think that higher rise trousers actually look good even without a jacket imo. Maybe I've drank too much Style Forum kool-aid, but it just looks more proportionate imo

I still have not figured out how you people (apparently) comfortably wear real high-rise trousers (by which I mean, at around the belly button) without suspenders. Maybe it only works with bespoke trousers, or maybe it's body proportions, but for me (but I've heard this from several people around here) they feel very uncomfortable when sitting, and they don't actually stay up at all. As soon as I start breathing the belly expands and contracts, pushing them down to the top of my hip-bones, where most of my other trousers sit. And please note that I am in fact lean - it only gets worse with more weight I assume.
I wonder if a taller waistband with on-seam tabs at mid-rise level can make them work for me, so that they look high rise while actually gripping at the top of the hip bones still.

 

[breakaway01]

I still have not figured out how you people (apparently) comfortably wear real high-rise trousers (by which I mean, at around the belly button) without suspenders. Maybe it only works with bespoke trousers, or maybe it's body proportions, but for me (but I've heard this from several people around here) they feel very uncomfortable when sitting, and they don't actually stay up at all. As soon as I start breathing the belly expands and contracts, pushing them down to the top of my hip-bones, where most of my other trousers sit. And please note that I am in fact lean - it only gets worse with more weight I assume.
I wonder if a taller waistband with on-seam tabs at mid-rise level can make them work for me, so that they look high rise while actually gripping at the top of the hip bones still.

Maybe my anatomy is different from yours but my belly button is pretty much right at the level of the tops of my hips (or even slightly below) so for me it works. But I only like to wear trousers that high with a jacket or something to cover my waistline. I don’t like how it looks on me with a tucked in shirt.

 

[DapperPhilly]

Lest I offer feedback without throwing my own out there.

I’ve noticed I tend to wear some fairly bland combinations and fall into a comfort zone where I wear the same handful of ties, shirts are 90% white twill or ice blue poplin and my shoes are pretty much dark brown or black with an odd oxblood pair or two mixed in.

Branching out, matching patterns and colors just turns into a deal where I doubt the combinations and end up changing into something “safe”

The other piece I struggle with (at least mentally) is my torso and arms are a bit longer proportionally than my legs and have forward hips so trying to balance jacket length with the rules without further feeling like I’m shrinking my legs is a challenge I try to navigate.

I’m not sure I’ve found a solution for what type of tailoring works best for me and those mental hurdles but have settled into feeling very comfortable in Neapolitan stuff and think it looks ok on me but also probably don’t know enough to be sure.

View attachment 1782771
Other issues I see - While the gorge here essentially sits on my collar bone and roughly bisects my shirt points, I think I’ll try a lower gorge in the future. Maybe a couple cm or so. May also lower the button stance slightly.

Looking forward to any takes on livening up combinations in an approachable way or if there are other tweaks to the silhouette I may have overlooked but may work better for my body.

That suit fits you perfectly imo. If I had to nitpick, maybe a bit too much shirt cuff but only on your right side. Probably just due to all of us have one side a bit different from the other. I would have gone with black oxfords if thats a grey tie. But dark brown works. The tie is in great proportion to the lapels.
In regard to branching out with different shirts/patterns, SF is a great place to see what works and what doesnt.
The WAYWRN HOF thread has many different pattern mixes. Some work (to my eyes) some don't, but a good place for ideas. Or instagram.

 

[JohnMRobie]

By cut away collar do you mean the very "vertical" gorge? I actually quite like it because it's quite unique in 2022.
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I assume he meant cutaway collar with regard to the cutaway shirt collar you’re wearing.

Aside from the minor tailoring notes on the bunching from your shoulders, the shirt collar is the one thing I’d change. I personally find a cutaway hard to wear with a knot that suits my face size without exposing the tie too much across my neck where I’ve circled here.

 

[JohnMRobie]

That suit fits you perfectly imo. If I had to nitpick, maybe a bit too much shirt cuff but only on your right side. Probably just due to all of us have one side a bit different from the other. I would have gone with black oxfords if thats a grey tie. But dark brown works. The tie is in great proportion to the lapels.
In regard to branching out with different shirts/patterns, SF is a great place to see what works and what doesnt.
The WAYWRN HOF thread has many different pattern mixes. Some work (to my eyes) some don't, but a good place for ideas. Or instagram.

Thanks. Navy tie and ice blue shirt actually.