Cheaney

[unknown_user]

It might well have been a Cheaney special for Country Attire, the store I purchased them from back then.

I bought a few pairs from them myself. I always bought in their sales but I did end up with some with QC issues like crooked tongue on my black Jarrows. A little more crooked than the slight crooked that is often deemed acceptable. I purchased a couple of pairs of Trickers from them as well. The Jean Store also seem to have quite a few pairs of Cheaney at good prices in their sale but annoyingly for me, only sell up to size 11.

 

[Humpty_Dumpty_Rises]

Got another Cheaney:

View attachment 2318945

The 'Richmond II R' in 'Black Regency Calf', a lovely, very subtle soft-grain.

View attachment 2318947

I adore the split-toe Apron style anyway and this Richmond is built on the 130 last, which I so love with the Mocha 'Elliott II R' I have shown last week. The shape is pretty elegant, isn't it!

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And ... Action!🎬

View attachment 2318951
- Cheaney Richmond II R -

Nice boot. And great photos as always. How do they feel on the feet? And how do they feel compared to the Elliott on the same last ?

 

[unknown_user]

The 'Richmond II R' in 'Black Regency Calf', a lovely, very subtle soft-grain.

Very nice.
A few years ago I bought the Richmond II GV in the 12508 last (which I prefer to the 130 last) in lovely CF Stead's Janus Calf in"rustique" colour. It was sold by Matches Fashion and I assume they requested the different last.
The other unusual thing is that it is on the Vibram Vi-lite sole (that's the GV suffix as opposed to the R suffix for Dainite).

 

[Pascal1980]

Hello everybody,

is actually the "Imperial" Line at around 900€ comparable to the "Handgrade" Line of Crockett & Jones? Their balmoral and dress derby boots look very interesting.

Best regards

Pascal

 

[bemk]

Nice boot. And great photos as always. How do they feel on the feet? And how do they feel compared to the Elliott on the same last ?

Well, it's near the freezing point here, so I wear thick socks, so I can only say that they fit as expected, therefore similar. Apart from that I like that the calf is very comfortable from the get-go. Just like the Mocha calf this Regency calf is noticeably less stiff than my regular calf from Tricker's (which is not negative).

I totally enjoy the sleek, chic shape. If you look at the Richmond side by side with my black Burford, it looks like the Burford had a date with a steamroller. 🤡
I don't need more than 1 black boot and 1 black shoe, so this Richmond will replace the Burford in that color. Trying to keep the madness in check.

Very nice.
A few years ago I bought the Richmond II GV in the 12508 last (which I prefer to the 130 last) in lovely CF Stead's Janus Calf in"rustique" colour.

I got from all the infos I gathered, that the 12508 is a wider last. Do you agree on this?

It was sold by Matches Fashion and I assume they requested the different last.
The other unusual thing is that it is on the Vibram Vi-lite sole (that's the GV suffix as opposed to the R suffix for Dainite).

Thanks for this detail! It's always helpful to know what these abbreviations designate.

 

[Fenners81]

Well, it's near the freezing point here, so I wear thick socks, so I can only say that they fit as expected, therefore similar. Apart from that I like that the calf is very comfortable from the get-go. Just like the Mocha calf this Regency calf is noticeably less stiff than my regular calf from Tricker's (which is not negative).

I totally enjoy the sleek, chic shape. If you look at the Richmond side by side with my black Burford, it looks like the Burford had a date with a steamroller. 🤡
I don't need more than 1 black boot and 1 black shoe, so this Richmond will replace the Burford in that color. Trying to keep the madness in check.



I got from all the infos I gathered, that the 12508 is a wider last. Do you agree on this?



Thanks for this detail! It's always helpful to know what these abbreviations designate.

Surely you’re not turning your back on Mr Burford?

 

[bemk]

Surely you’re not turning your back on Mr Burford?

First of all: 🍻 for remembering the 'Mr.'! 😎

Well, as I said earlier here, I sold a lot of boots and when it's all done it will be roundabout 20 pairs gone. I'm doing a lot of restructuring. Keeping it down to the bare necessities™. 🤡

Some boots fits so perfect or are so special and gorgeous that many others will automatically become second choice and will make it too rarely on my feet. Especially when you have lots of choices. I know that.

And then I find it much more interesting to pick from a diverse collection instead of having e.g. 5 pairs of Stow in different colours. This is why I have parted with the Espresso Stow, which has been replaced by the Elliott.

Some models are so unique, there is just no replacement. Acorn, I love Acorn, so the Acorn Stow will never go. Same for Marron and I have it with the Stow and ... 🥁... the Burford.
The Marron Burford is a rockstar, the black Burford is not as special for me.

And there is one more thing: More and more I dress less casual and the Tricker's country style is not as versatile as my C&J boots and the new Cheaneys.

So yeah, I am pretty decided to turn my back on the black one.

 

[Humpty_Dumpty_Rises]

Well, i am happy to hear about Bemk's boot adventures. And i am also happy to see this Cheaney thread come to life. It was dead for the past 2 years and has been revived. And I've played my part thankyou.
🤌

Cheaney deserves more love and respect than it gets. And i believe Cheaney will meet (if not surpass) Crockett & Jones reputation if they keep it up. They are doing a lot of things right.

Also, C&J will need to keep their prices in check going forward. If they continue to increase their prices (at the rate they've been doing the past few years), then i believe Cheaney will end up becoming a great alternative for many customers. Essentially, Cheaney will snatch the customer share and market share away from Crockett & Jones. They already are i think as far as London city retail stores and sales are concerned.

 

[unknown_user]

Aesthetically I've always liked the Cheaney lasts. They're more elegant than Trickers last and they don't usually have that wide Trickers welt which jars slightly with me. Also, for my pocket, C&J are a bit expensive even if they're a step above Cheaney. I do think Cheaney prices have increased a similar percentage to C&J and are a reflection of recent inflation and also recent above inflation wage increases in the UK. For example a pair of Jarrow boots were RRP £365 in 2019 and are £495 now.
I usually buy footwear in sales when I see something pop-up (I don't NEED any more) and Cheaney is often available at decent discounts whereas C&J keep more control on their prices which is why I only own 4 pairs of C&J.
I do think we all have a price point which we feel uncomfortable exceeding and may start to worry about our footwear more than we should and even Cheaney at RRP falls into this category for me now. I have a number of Thursday boots as well as multiple Chippewa, Loake, Barker, Red Wing etc. and it's liberating wearing boots that don't make you wince if you accidentally gouge the leather and they're still nicer than what most people wear, And if I'm going into proper rough conditions I wear leather Scarpa or Meindl proper walking boots which obviously are meant to be beaten up.

 

[unknown_user]

Thanks for this detail! It's always helpful to know what these abbreviations designate.

Cheaney sole abbreviations....
R = Dainite or own version studded soles (they use both)
D = Diamond pattern city sole
C= Commando
GV = Vibram Vi-lite
M = Vibram Mirto which looks the same as Vi-lite but might be made of a different compound.
EF = Extra Flex leather sole
RW = Ridgeway
B = Britgrip sole, a patriotic equivalent of Ridgeway soles produced by ITS Hide
GL = Gumlite
Standard leather soles don't have an abbreviation.

 

[ForwardPleats]

Hello everybody,

is actually the "Imperial" Line at around 900€ comparable to the "Handgrade" Line of Crockett & Jones? Their balmoral and dress derby boots look very interesting.

Best regards

Pascal

I don't know if it was just bad luck, but I did not have a great experience when trying to buy some Imperial line loafers a couple years back. There were real issues with the leather, including some very unsightly growth and bite marks in prominent locations, as well as notably sloppy finishing. It was really disappointing considering the price point as I bought and returned like 4 pairs online trying to find a single good pair. I would like to hope they were pandemic related issues.

If they ironed out the issues, I would strongly reconsider buying shoes from Cheaney again. I find their lasts and designs generally more aesthetically pleasing and elegant than C&J, whose generally long, pointy toes I really don't like.

 

[Fenners81]

First of all: 🍻 for remembering the 'Mr.'! 😎

Well, as I said earlier here, I sold a lot of boots and when it's all done it will be roundabout 20 pairs gone. I'm doing a lot of restructuring. Keeping it down to the bare necessities™. 🤡

Some boots fits so perfect or are so special and gorgeous that many others will automatically become second choice and will make it too rarely on my feet. Especially when you have lots of choices. I know that.

And then I find it much more interesting to pick from a diverse collection instead of having e.g. 5 pairs of Stow in different colours. This is why I have parted with the Espresso Stow, which has been replaced by the Elliott.

Some models are so unique, there is just no replacement. Acorn, I love Acorn, so the Acorn Stow will never go. Same for Marron and I have it with the Stow and ... 🥁... the Burford.
The Marron Burford is a rockstar, the black Burford is not as special for me.

And there is one more thing: More and more I dress less casual and the Tricker's country style is not as versatile as my C&J boots and the new Cheaneys.

So yeah, I am pretty decided to turn my back on the black one.

A very interesting rationale. I’ve also been slimming down my collection but I think I need to be more brutal. Like you mention, I have many iterations of similar styles. I just struggle with the ridiculously low prices used footwear commands.

I agree that Cheaney has some really attractive and well priced options and have a good few pairs myself.

 

[Ypuh]

If you paid anywhere near retail, it's going to hurt. On the other hand, I was able to buy multiple pairs of virtually unworn pairs for 1/3rd or less. Moving those on was easy (a good deal for me is also a good deal for someone else).

My most expensive purchases were new from the factory stores or sales. You save like 1/3rd from RRP, but lose like another 1/3rd when selling on.

The interest for Cheaney is there but seems to fetch less than Tricker's or C&J.

 

[Humpty_Dumpty_Rises]

If you paid anywhere near retail, it's going to hurt. On the other hand, I was able to buy multiple pairs of virtually unworn pairs for 1/3rd or less. Moving those on was easy (a good deal for me is also a good deal for someone else).

My most expensive purchases were new from the factory stores or sales. You save like 1/3rd from RRP, but lose like another 1/3rd when selling on.

The interest for Cheaney is there but seems to fetch less than Tricker's or C&J.

"Reselling" is a different matter altogether. Your correct to say that Trickers/C&J fetch better prices when sold on.

 

[Pascal1980]

Hello everybody,

interesting, because I find the "Imperial" Line of Cheaney quite attractive, in partcular the dressy balmoral and derby boots. Yet are they comparable to the C&J handgrade line?

The lasts I think are more "classic British" compared to Crockett & Jones. I dropped by theiry shop on Jermyn street the last time I was in London.

Best regards

Pascal