2022 Jermyn St. RTW Shoe Brands Ranking

[MontyChapman]

I've read a few older StyleForum threads on English GWY shoes but it seems to be a hazy mix of bespoke & RTW operations, so I thought I would open a thread dedicated to solely the RTW branch of English shoemakers found on Jermyn Street.

Please rank them and tell us why? (If possible, please distinguish and rank certain shoe subcategories separately. For example like C&J Handgrade Collection vs C&J Main Collection)

Factors to consider: pricepoint, finish quality, workmanship quality, construction/design, quality of leather uppers/soles and etc.

List of the shops:
1. Tricker's
2a. Crockett & Jones Handgrade
2b. Crockett & Jones Main Collection
3. John Lobb
4. Barker
5. Church's
6. Jones Bootmakers
7. Russell & Bromley
8. Joseph Cheaney & Sons
9. J.M.Weston
10. Edward Green

 

[daizawaguy]

I`m afraid there is still a hazy mix of RTW operations...

 

[letsgofire]

Good idea. I think there are some 'groups' that would help organize the list. People will fight you on the details so maybe this is safer

Top Group: Edward Green, John Lobb, Crockett & Jones Handgrade,

Second Group: Crockett & Jones Main Collection, Church's (classic collection like consul, not made in Italy lines),

Third Group: Tricker's, Chaney, Barker

Fourth Group: Russell and Bromley and Jones Bootmakers are not really in the same league but I would concede I haven't handled them personally in a long time.

Not on your list but could be:

Gaziano & Girling is not on Jermyn Street but would be in the Top Group. They are over on Saville Row

Grenson is also on Jerymn Street. I think they have been trying to introduce shoes comparable to my third group, but I haven't seen them in person so I would be tempted to put them in group four.

Loake is also there and could be in the Third Group.

 

[MontyChapman]

I`m afraid there is still a hazy mix of RTW operations...

I meant that some of the previous threads on rankings were conflating a firm's bespoke and RTW sectors, making it a hazy evaluation.

 

[Clouseau]

This thread is a nice idea @MontyChapman. When I go to London I really like to visit those shoemakers. Last time was a few days before the first lockdown started in France.
I would put Loake between the third and the fourth group. I like them, and find them superior to R&B and JtB, but not as good IMO than Trickers, Cheaney, or Barker.
About Grenson, you have now to differentiate between their UK production and the one made abroad (India IIRC?). Hmmm I wonder if some Loakes aren’t made in India too.

 

[MontyChapman]

This thread is a nice idea @MontyChapman. When I go to London I really like to visit those shoemakers. Last time was a few days before the first lockdown started in France.
I would put Loake between the third and the fourth group. I like them, and find them superior to R&B and JtB, but not as good IMO than Trickers, Cheaney, or Barker.
About Grenson, you have now to differentiate between their UK production and the one made abroad (India IIRC?). Hmmm I wonder if some Loakes aren’t made in India too.

I think Barker also has an Indian production line, which I did not like. The leather was very tough and unaccomodating. Funnily, I've had Indian-made shoes from American dress shoe brands that were miles better!

 

[Shoemog]

Great post. I think Kirby Allison had something to say about this. There is something about the different grades within the ranges. The top part of the ranges are often on a par with next level up e.g. C&j handgrade and Ed Green.

Agreed many would fight on the finer points but I would say:

Top Group: Edward Green, John Lobb, Crockett & Jones Handgrade,

Second Group: Crockett & Jones Main Collection, Church's (classic collection - but many agree their quality has gone down despite price hikes. Personally wouldn't touch them now!!), trickers, Cheney Imperial collection

Third Group: Loake (1880 range), Cheaney, grenson (one is UK made, two is Indian made)

Fourth Group: Loake, Barker (personally dont rate them).

Russell and Bromley and Jones - Not sure why they are even on the street!!

Agree that g&g + George cleverly (actually not far from jermyn street) are probably a cut above the others and almost I would say are 1a.

 

[Shoemog]

This thread is a nice idea @MontyChapman.
About Grenson, you have now to differentiate between their UK production and the one made abroad (India IIRC?). Hmmm I wonder if some Loakes aren’t made in India too.

Yeah both of them tbf clearly label their products on where they are made. Loakes finer shoes are made in Northampton (they Just revamped their collection names but 1880 and some of professional are made in UK). Not sure if grenson class their ONE collection as higher grade but it is more expensive.

 

[comrade]

J.M Weston, not British, seems to be excluded from all but the first list.

 

[Shoemog]

Well it's not Northampton English ....sooooo kinda fair enough. 😁