Cheaney Imperial vs C&J

[DrapeCut]

In the market for a pair of really special Oxfords ( No more than $700 for Wholecuts or minimal design) and am torn between two Northampton makers.
Crockett and Jones offers its Main Collection variants for $660 and Cheaney Imperial runs at $570 for the maker's highest grade shoe.
The Cheaney Imperial collection seems like much better value than C&J.
Why is the latter more expensive for what seems like a more basic shoe?

Edgware Black Calf

Edgware, an oxford shoe with a delicately punched medallion on the toe. Made on last 348 from the finest black calf leather and single leather soles. From the Men's Main Collection.

us.crockettandjones.com

Lancaster Punch Capped Oxford in Black Calf Leather

Lancaster is part of the new Imperial Collection which has been updated on a new last to offer an elegant, sophisticated shape.

www.cheaney.co.uk

 

[Phileas Fogg]

I don’t own any Cheaney, but I do own quite a few C&J. Crockett & Jones are, in my opinion, the best value in English footwear.

Specifically as it relates to these two, I like the sleekness of the 348 C&J last compared to the Cheaney. As to quality, I don’t know because, as I said, I don’t own the former. If the shape of the shoe and the last is a determining factor, then the additional cost for me is worth it.

 

[DrapeCut]

I don’t own any Cheaney, but I do own quite a few C&J. Crockett & Jones are, in my opinion, the best value in English footwear.

Specifically as it relates to these two, I like the sleekness of the 348 C&J last compared to the Cheaney. As to quality, I don’t know because, as I said, I don’t own the former. If the shape of the shoe and the last is a determining factor, then the additional cost for me is worth it.

How is the C&J better value when it has exposed stitching and a more standard waist? What makes C&J so great?

 

[Braid]

In the market for a pair of really special Oxfords ( No more than $700 for Wholecuts or minimal design) and am torn between two Northampton makers.
Crockett and Jones offers its Main Collection variants for $660 and Cheaney Imperial runs at $570 for the maker's highest grade shoe.
The Cheaney Imperial collection seems like much better value than C&J.
Why is the latter more expensive for what seems like a more basic shoe?

Edgware Black Calf

Edgware, an oxford shoe with a delicately punched medallion on the toe. Made on last 348 from the finest black calf leather and single leather soles. From the Men's Main Collection.

us.crockettandjones.com

Lancaster Punch Capped Oxford in Black Calf Leather

Lancaster is part of the new Imperial Collection which has been updated on a new last to offer an elegant, sophisticated shape.

www.cheaney.co.uk

In UK the CJ Edgware are cheaper than this specific pair of chaney. I believe CJ us store prices are higher and (at least in the past, before the Web shop), us custoemers used to contact UK stores and pay UK prices (minus vat) and therefore had much competitive prices.

Better to check with some US based user who is more familiar with the process.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

How is the C&J better value when it has exposed stitching and a more standard waist? What makes C&J so great?

you’ll note that I mentioned I can’t compare it specifically to that particular shoe, but in my opinion, within the price point of C&J the quality and range they offer earns them a place in a tier by themselves.

Also, please note that the Cheaney is priced in £ and excludes VAT. The price is pretty comparable to your Cheaney when comparing apples to apples, or rather £ to £.

Nothing really strikes me as unique about the waist of the Cheaney. As for exposed vs. channeled sole, that’s usually something I consider well last.

I like the 348 last from C&J. If that last doesn’t work for you or there are other reasons why you like the Cheaney more, then go for it. I’m sure it’s a fine shoe and very well made. But to make price a differentiating factor between these two is flawed.

 

[DrapeCut]

you’ll note that I mentioned I can’t compare it specifically to that particular shoe, but in my opinion, within the price point of C&J the quality and range they offer earns them a place in a tier by themselves.

Also, please note that the Cheaney is priced in £ and excludes VAT. The price is pretty comparable to your Cheaney when comparing apples to apples, or rather £ to £.

Nothing really strikes me as unique about the waist of the Cheaney. As for exposed vs. channeled sole, that’s usually something I consider well last.

I like the 348 last from C&J. If that last doesn’t work for you or there are other reasons why you like the Cheaney more, then go for it. I’m sure it’s a fine shoe and very well made. But to make price a differentiating factor between these two is flawed.

348 is a beautiful last! I wear a US 9D in most shoes, but would call one of the NYC stores to compare my foot measurements (10.38" and 10.44") against the proportions of the suggested UK 8E.

 

[WSB17]

Compared to C&J's standard line, the Cheaney Imperial is hands down the better value option.
You get invisible channel stitched outsoles (oak-barked tanned by Baker), beautiful full grain leather, very nice elegant lasts, etc.

Not knocking C&J here.. my Peal & Co. C&J models are very nice, and some of the standard line models (not the Handgrade) I've seen do have fudging/wheeling, which the Cheaney Imperials do not have.

But at that price delta, I'd go with Cheaney.

 

[DrapeCut]

Compared to C&J's standard line, the Cheaney Imperial is hands down the better value option.
You get invisible channel stitched outsoles (oak-barked tanned by Baker), beautiful full grain leather, very nice elegant lasts, etc.

Not knocking C&J here.. my Peal & Co. C&J models are very nice, and some of the standard line models (not the Handgrade) I've seen do have fudging/wheeling, which the Cheaney Imperials do not have.

But at that price delta, I'd go with Cheaney.

I'm based in the US and know that BB has the Peal & Co shoes made by C&J. Those oxfords don't look like any of the standard C&J models and are frequently discounted to sub $600. Are they lesser quality?

 

[DrapeCut]

Actually, there are retailers that sell the Edgware for like $540! Why would I pay the $650 from C&J directly lol?

 

[WSB17]

I'm based in the US and know that BB has the Peal & Co shoes made by C&J. Those oxfords don't look like any of the standard C&J models and are frequently discounted to sub $600. Are they lesser quality?

I believe Peal and Co. have slightly different designs, and possibly unique lasts (?).
But quality wise, I wouldn't think there's a difference.. I've always assumed the Peal & Co. are built to the standards of C&J's mainline.
Some of the models are in fact similar to the Handgrade (close channel, fudging/wheeling, etc.)..
I'm sure the C&J experts here can provide more info.

Ex:

 

[dieworkwear]

Personally would get whatever fits and looks best on you. I think differences in quality here are marginal. I have shoes from C&J and Cheaney; they're all fine. "Better value" will come down to how much you like wearing the shoes, which will be connected to fit and style.

Of the two shoes you've picked, I like the Cheaney last better. Personally dislike pointy shoes. Also, think those would both look better without the floating medallion.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

Actually, there are retailers that sell the Edgware for like $540! Why would I pay the $650 from C&J directly lol?

It’s an odd sort of system. I think Loake stopped shipping to the US from the UK some time ago and I can only imagine it’s because people were skipping buying them in the states and getting them cheaper from the UK.

The only place I’m aware of in the states, besides the NYC boutiques, that carries Crockett & Jones is Ben Silver.

Looking at the UK sites, it seems that when you check in from the US, the prices are listed pretty consistent with the US based locations.

 

[DrapeCut]

That lower price excludes tax! How do the makes compare in fit? A snug heel and vamp are VERY important to me.

 

[usctrojans31]

I've handled both. The difference in quality is minimal at best. As DWW mentioned, get whichever fits you better and whichever you prefer more.

 

[usctrojans31]

That lower price excludes tax! How do the makes compare in fit? A snug heel and vamp are VERY important to me.

I find Cheaney lasts tight to fit a bit more snugly. The last time I was in London, I had every intention of buying some C&J. Nothing fit me properly, despite the team's best effort to make it work.

G&G is offering 20% off on RTW through April 12. Might get you to your budget. Promo code is PROMO21.