Bespoke Shoe Makers that DON'T Require a Fitting

[puffdaddy]

I have ordered three bespoke shoes from two different makers and without the fitting stage, the shoes would have been unwearable.

In all three cases, the quarters/instep proved far too generous in the test stage.

If you don't have any foot problems nor want to tweak a design, consider yourself lucky. There are great MTO programs out there. However, with all due respect to some previous posters, I simply cannot see how a fitting can be avoided.

Maybe that is just my experience and the measurers and lastmakers I've dealt with have been somewhat deficient, but I doubt it.

I suppose the question is whether close enough is good enough. For 3K+ per pair I don't think so.

 

[fritzl]

Originally Posted by pledge

Finally, did you ever consider JP Mhyre for a commission? Thanks.

he did and it is a fairly bizarre story...

 

[macaroni]

Originally Posted by pledge

Not looking to fly to London, Budapest, Italy, Vienna (although it would make a lovely vacation spot) or alas, Oslo. Any ideas?

What about "semi-bespoke"?

Take a look here: http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=122529

and here http://macaronitomatoenglish.blogspot.com

 

[fritzl]

Originally Posted by macaroni

...and here http://macaronitomatoenglish.blogspot.com

i like this part of the story:

As most Central European cobblers Wielądek only adjusts already existing lasts for new clients, instead of making them from scratch. There is no fitting in the process.

He believes fitting is a "žfrolic".

"žYou can't really learn anything from putting an upper on ones foot, you must trust my skills" - he told me. I suppose this process would be called made to measure in Britain rather than bespoke, but all Polish cobblers seem to be working that way.

this man shares the same opinion.

 

[Gruto]

I follow the idea that bespoke shirts and suits are more valuable than bespoke shoes. On the other hand, I find a tremendous difference in good fit between my RTW shoes and bespoke shoes.

Concerning a trial shoe, I doubt it's that necessary. Your first pair might not have a perfect fit, but they will be useful indeed. The second pair will have it.

 

[macaroni]

Originally Posted by fritzl

this man shares the same opinion.

And this is to prove what? I have a pair of shoes form my cobbler and they don't look anything like the ones you put link to.

Correct me if I'm wrong but fitting shoes means putting an upper on ones foot? The shoe is not constructed yet. And only after it is constructed around the last you can really evaluate the fit. I think it makes perfect sense.

 

[fritzl]

Originally Posted by macaroni

And this is to prove what? I have a pair of shoes form my cobbler and they don't look anything like the ones you put link to.

Correct me if I'm wrong but fitting shoes means putting an upper on ones foot? The shoe is not constructed yet. And only after it is constructed around the last you can really evaluate the fit. I think it makes perfect sense.

i dunno what you are talking about. there are several approaches due to different schools of shoemaking. you are sticking to the shape. ok

 

[bengal-stripe]

Originally Posted by macaroni

Correct me if I'm wrong but fitting shoes means putting an upper on ones foot? The shoe is not constructed yet. And only after it is constructed around the last you can really evaluate the fit. I think it makes perfect sense.

Fittings can be done at different stages: A number of continental firms (among them John Lobb Paris use (in the first place) the "˜Cinderella slipper'. The last is covert in a special plastic foil and with heat and vacuum this foil is formed to the shape of the last.

Picture from the Dutch Mischa Bergshoeff: http://www.ilmaestro.nl/index2.html

Another method used on the continent is a "˜prova' (trial shoe) made from scrap leather, then lasted and fitted with a cemented (glued) sole. Some Italian and Japanese shoemakers, during the fitting process, will cut the "˜prova' open to see how things look inside. (Some people will argue, this is purely show-biz, just like a restaurant flambÃ

ing certain dishes at the table is for effect not for taste.)

English shoemakers usually make a finished upper, then the shoes will get lasted, fully welted and have a temporary heel attached. Apart from the outer sole, the shoes are fully made. If any alterations are necessary, the last is adjusted and (in many cases) the shoes will have to be re-made as the insole might not fit anymore. That is called "˜in-welt' and looks like this:

There is also a method of "˜bracing', where the lasted uppers are stitched to the insole with whip stitch (so the shoes are not fully welted yet). Alterations are easier as the shoes are at an earlier stage.

The fitting is intended, primarily, to check the last not the upper, nor the pattern. With every stitching hole showing permanently in the leather, you cannot really alter a pair of uppers. If there should be a problem, the uppers will have to be binned and a new pair will have to be made.

 

[macaroni]

Bengal Stripe, Thank you for the answer. Very informative.

 

[pledge]

Originally Posted by fritzl

he did and it is a fairly bizarre story...

can you share?...

 

[fritzl]

Originally Posted by pledge

can you share?...

no, it is his own story and he shared it already in a thread.

 

[Kuro]

...

 

[lasbar]

Bespoke must be fully bespoke... The cobbler or artisan is having two or three fittings to completely adapt the shoe to your foot morphology...
As the left foot is always a bit different in shape/volume than the right one, that is the ultimate argument to explain why bespoke is better than made to measure...
Made to mesure is easier for the cobbler because he is using already made lasts ...
Dimitri Gomez tried to interest me in one of his made to mesure models but I did think at the moment that for the price asked the MTM process was not interesting..

 

[scot]

I had bespoke shoes made, without a fitting, using a fiberglass casting process. Colors might not be to your liking though, and the sole is a bit stiff.

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=545752

 

[pledge]

Originally Posted by culverwood

Carreduker claim to make bespoke from your own measurements.
http://www.carreducker.com/pages/diy.htm
http://www.carreducker.com/pages/measure_form.htm

Thank you for the suggestion. What they don't tell you on their website is that they will require an in-person fitting.