Bespoke/MTM suit advice

[thetfox]

I recently moved to Korea and heard about Hahn's Tailors and some other suit places from this forum. I am hoping to have a suit made by one of them (still not quite sure if they qualify as Bespoke or just MTM?) but want to go in really knowing what I want and how the suit should fit, so I don't waist my money. I am posting several photos of myself in one of my other suits, and would like it if you guys would tear it apart. Seriously tell me everything wrong with it so I understand where to go from here. I do already know that the sleeves are too long. On the pants I think I have a full break but I'm considering either a half or quarter break. Also, as you can see from some of the photos as I lift my arms the entire jacket tends to lift up. I've seen some people where suits that seem to move a lot more fluidly with their body. My assumption is this has to do with the depth the arms are cut to? What are your recommendations to get a suit that moves with me a little better- I tend to be fairly activate and talk with my hands- and what kind of side effects might I see from whatever it is I do to fix the problem if any? What do you guys think about shoulder padding, lapel width, button height, etc. for my body type?

Any and all advice welcome!

 

[beargonefishing]

Pants too long, button hole too high, shoulder divits, it shouldn't, right shoulder bunching, back vents don't lay flat, sleeves too long, waist in coat too tight. Difficult to assess pants other than length. Look at bespoke suit thread for some examples of fit.

 

[beargonefishing]

See also permanentstyle.com. Loads of pictures showing how a suit and pants should fit.

 

[Anton21]

I recently moved to Korea and heard about Hahn's Tailors and some other suit places from this forum. I am hoping to have a suit made by one of them (still not quite sure if they qualify as Bespoke or just MTM?) but want to go in really knowing what I want and how the suit should fit, so I don't waist my money. I am posting several photos of myself in one of my other suits, and would like it if you guys would tear it apart. Seriously tell me everything wrong with it so I understand where to go from here. I do already know that the sleeves are too long. On the pants I think I have a full break but I'm considering either a half or quarter break. Also, as you can see from some of the photos as I lift my arms the entire jacket tends to lift up. I've seen some people where suits that seem to move a lot more fluidly with their body. My assumption is this has to do with the depth the arms are cut to? What are your recommendations to get a suit that moves with me a little better- I tend to be fairly activate and talk with my hands- and what kind of side effects might I see from whatever it is I do to fix the problem if any? What do you guys think about shoulder padding, lapel width, button height, etc. for my body type? View attachment 991600 View attachment 991601 View attachment 991602 View attachment 991603 View attachment 991604 View attachment 991605 View attachment 991608 View attachment 991609 View attachment 991610 View attachment 991611 Any and all advice welcome!

Hi there! I think that is MTM, if it is bespoke with a good master tailor, the suit wouldn't be like that. Everything goes up when you raise your arms because the armhole is too low, that's quite difficult to fix because the armhole is already cut. But in wearing suits, if you know you will be moving a lot with your arms, you really have to unbutton your chest buttons. The back isn't that smooth, it should rest flat at your back or could be the posture? Seems to me the shoulder pad is to thick that's why there's like a wrinkle below the shoulder blade. The lapels are just right, the width is okay. I don't see prominent handmade buttonholes on your sleeves, this can't be bespoke. a true bespoke suit can be even functional, and handmade buttonholes are really clean and beautifully done. Hope this helps!