Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

[emptyvase]

Any recommendations for high quality tailors in Chicago (or Evanston) able to do suit alterations (waist suppression, sleeve length, taper & hem pants, etc.) well, and willing to do so with suits not purchased from them? Searching threads, it seems Despos is by far the best tailor, but probably not open to doing alterations on suits not made by them.

 

[New Shoes1]

Any recommendations for high quality tailors in Chicago (or Evanston) able to do suit alterations (waist suppression, sleeve length, taper & hem pants, etc.) well, and willing to do so with suits not purchased from them? Searching threads, it seems Despos is by far the best tailor, but probably not open to doing alterations on suits not made by them.

I like Golden Needle on State Street. They did a good job on a recent suit and sport coat.

 

[LuckyLucius]

I'm an usher for a wedding where I'm wearing a modern-fitted Paul Smith suit (Slimmer cut, narrower lapels). Should I stick to the full windsor or opt for a half windsor or Shelby knot to reflect the suit?

 

[Gibonius]



I'm an usher for a wedding where I'm wearing a modern-fitted Paul Smith suit (Slimmer cut, narrower lapels). Should I stick to the full windsor or opt for a half windsor or Shelby knot to reflect the suit?

A nicely done four-in-hand (or double FIH) would work well.

Then again, this is very often the case...

 

[cptjeff]



I'm an usher for a wedding where I'm wearing a modern-fitted Paul Smith suit (Slimmer cut, narrower lapels). Should I stick to the full windsor or opt for a half windsor or Shelby knot to reflect the suit?

Unless the tie is very thin, always skip the full windsor.

I pretty much always wear the shelby, and recommend it. Most here typically wear the four in hand.

 

[ngshinong]

Hi, is it possible to get a pure silk tie in plain black shade under $50? thanks!

 

[The Thin Man]



Hi, is it possible to get a pure silk tie in plain black shade under $50? thanks!

This woven tie is from Nordstrom: http://shop.nordstrom.com/s/calibra...kingCode=8D770546-BD07-E011-9C39-001517B1882B

Brooks Brothers' solid repp ties should be on sale on Monday for around $50. http://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCat...nt_Id=210&sort_by=&sectioncolor=&sectionsize=

 

[hairyfish]

I know fashion is a skinny person's game, but how do larger guys out there find stuff that fits properly?
I'm about 6'2", 91kg (200lbs), rugby player type build (heavyish but strongish, not just flabby) so on the border line of regular sizes but I struggle to find stuff that fits properly.
I'm usually a 112-117(44-46) but find the suits that looked best didn't feel good to move in (ie too tight upper arms/across the shoulder), or if they feel good they look too loose around the waist).
Any tips or tricks for us guys who don't fit into the oversize category but are a little bigger than average?

 

[Steve Smith]

[quote name="hairyfish" url="/t/79716/ask-a-question-get-an-answer-post-all-quick-questions-here/15360_60#post_5525594 
I'm usually a 112-117(44-46) but find the suits that looked best didn't feel good to move in (ie too tight upper arms/across the shoulder), or if they feel good they look too loose around the waist).
Any tips or tricks for us guys who don't fit into the oversize category but are a little bigger than average?
[/quote]

If it doesn't fit in the shoulders it doesn't fit. Period.

Experiment with different cuts to find what comes closest to your ideal fit off the rack, then have it tailored in the middle.

 

[ngshinong]

Thanks a lot, but they don't ship to Malaysia.

 

[12345Michael54321]



I know fashion is a skinny person's game, but how do larger guys out there find stuff that fits properly?

Simply ignore the current fashion trend which favors styles better suited to guys possessing physiques more akin to those of pre-pubescent girls, than to those of us with larger builds.

Very slim-fitting clothing may look good on certain men. Well, perhaps. Admittedly, I don't care for it, but hey, I can accept that other people may find it to be a desirable look. To each his own, right?

But on a larger man (and by "larger," I don't necessarily mean fat - although it applies to them, too), a less close-fitting look can arguably be more flattering. And fortunately, there's no real shortage of great suits, shirts, pants, etc., hewing to a more traditional and non-slim fitting design philosophy.

It's similar to the way that my size 13 3E feet are never going to look or feel their best in skinny Italian fashion footwear. And the 5'3" woman with curves may not be able to wear the outfit she saw on the 5'11" rail-thin fashion model.

(And I apologize if anyone was offended by my somewhat tongue-in-cheek reference to pre-pubescent girls. I assure you, I no more look down upon a man who is 5'4" tall, weighs 125 lbs., and has trouble finding a slim-fitting size 33S suit, than I do the man who is 6'3" tall, weighs 225 lbs., and whose 52L Brooks 1818 Madison suit is a little snug across the shoulders.)
--
Michael

 

[muted]

Hey, I'm looking for a Prince of Wales/Grey Glenplaid three-piece suit. Does anyone know a good brand/site that currently carries this piece? I've been to a bunch of shops around NYC but they only seem to have them in darker tones that are 4 sizes too big.

 

[joshuadowen]

Quote:
+1

Understanding what can be tailored is very important. As a larger guy, you are less likely to find suits that fit perfectly off the rack. With jackets, look for things that fit your shoulders and arm width. Things like sleeve length and waist size on a jacket are easy to have altered. With pants, look for a pair that fits the width of your legs and seat comfortably. Having the waist taken in is easy.

 

[hairyfish]

Understanding what can be tailored is very important.

Thanks all, I guess this is the part I'm still working out. I've always been a jeans and t shirt guy so still trying to learning the ins and outs of what I should look for, and what can and can't be changed easily.
I went window shopping yesterday to see if I can work out what you get for your money, as I'm not comfortable spending much if I don't know where the money is going. The local dept store here in Aus, DJs had a good range, and the Hugo Boss James Sharp 2 stood out above the pack but $1000 is lot of money for me for a suit, and they didn't have my size, and I wasn't sure even if they did would I want an off the street tailor to butcher a $1000 suit? I guess I need to find a good tailor too?
There was a "West End by Simon Carter" suit that looked similar to the HB (to my untrained eye), for only $500 this is a lot closer to my budget but also never had my size. Any opinions about this?

 

[trash]

I'm having regular problems with my shirts (mostly sport shirts which is what I usually where) coming out of the laundry with annoying creasing in the placket. The creasing runs vertically along the line of the buttonholes. It occasionally happens on the button side as well, but the big problem is the buttonhole side. I can iron it out, but on some of my older shirts you can still see the crease (even though the fabric lays flat). I'm worried all my shirts will end up like this, is there anything I can do? It seems like the creasing is in place when they come out of the washing machine, so I've tried tugging the fabric a bit to get the crease out while the fabric is wet, but it was only a marginal help.