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Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - reviews, pictures, sizing, etc...

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reidrothchild

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Nice. I've had these for about a year and love them. These were my first cordovans. Not to spark the whole cordovan vs. calf debate all over again, but I'm not as sold on cordovan (considering the price premium) as some. Don't get me wrong, I love my Randolphs. The ripple-creasing of cordovan suits a plainer toe such as these much better IMO than would calf. However, I've not noticed them to be any more "bullet proof" or durable than my calf shoes. My Randolphs scuff more easily than my calf shoes. Granted, the scuffs also buff out with very little effort. While they're holding up wonderfully after a year of wear, I've got calf AEs that still look brand new after 2+ years of wear. Cordovan is unique and has its upside to be sure, but I'm just not sure that cordovan is worth the price of two pairs of calf to me.
 
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otc

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I've walked around my office a bit and am seeing the first creases in my bayfields....and they are creasing on the cap right in front of the brogueing :(

can't be a sizing issue since I don't think these could fit any better...must just be how my feet bend. My PA's don't crease on the cap but they have notoriously short caps; my other plain cap toes have much longer caps and they also crease on the cap.
 

Winston S.

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Hi, this is my first time posting on the forum though I've been lurking for some time. I was hoping to get some help regarding my recent (and also first) AE purchase(s). I bought the 5th Aves in Walnut and the Park Aves in Walnut Cloud during the recent sale, but only intend on keeping one of the pairs for now. Had a couple of questions though:

1. As far as fit is concerned, I'm torn between 9.5D and 9.0D. The 9.5D fit quite nicely out the box. The heels are perfect and my toes have a decent amount of wiggle room. I'm afraid that the leather may stretch after some wear and it the 9.5D may become a little too loose. The 9.0D fit a bit snug/uncomfortable out the box. My left ankle sticks out a little more than normal (basketball injuries)l I'd say, which rubs against the leather which is a bit bothersome. I had this issue with another pair of shoes. After breaking those in, the ankle thing was more just something I notice rather than being actually bothersome. Also with the 9.0D, my toes are little squished in the front though not painful. I'm thinking the 9.0D will be a better fit after breaking in the shoes a bit, but hoping someone more experienced would chime in.

2. How closely should my belt match my shoes? I purchased a Walnut colored belt from AE alongside my shoes, but the belt/shoe match isn't perfect. The belt is slightly darker than the 5th Aves, and definitely darker than the Walnut Cloud.

3. Does anyone know if AE intends on releasing the Walnut Cloud for 5th Aves? I personally like the fancier design of the 5th Aves, but the new Walnut Cloud is absolutely gorgeous. I especially like the lighter shade of the Walnut Cloud compared to Walnut.

Thanks all!


1. If the 9.5 is not tight anywhere I doubt it will stretch.

2. The color of your belt should be the same shade. If it is close enough when you are wearing both I think you should be fine, i.e., if you look in the mirror with them both on and you can't tell a color difference as that will be how other people will be viewing it.
 

gooter

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I've walked around my office a bit and am seeing the first creases in my bayfields....and they are creasing on the cap right in front of the brogueing
frown.gif

can't be a sizing issue since I don't think these could fit any better...must just be how my feet bend. My PA's don't crease on the cap but they have notoriously short caps; my other plain cap toes have much longer caps and they also crease on the cap.
That's where mine were starting to crease as well.
 

Willin

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Could anyone provide photo's of the Strand Bourbon Calf in the wild? I can't seem to find any. Much appreciated.
 

MoneyWellSpent

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I've walked around my office a bit and am seeing the first creases in my bayfields....and they are creasing on the cap right in front of the brogueing
frown.gif

can't be a sizing issue since I don't think these could fit any better...must just be how my feet bend. My PA's don't crease on the cap but they have notoriously short caps; my other plain cap toes have much longer caps and they also crease on the cap.

That's where mine were starting to crease as well.

I think you indeed hit on an important point with your comment above on the PA's. Many complain that the PA's caps are too short, but for me it is precisely the short cap which keeps them from creasing in the wrong location. I debated for a long time between the Sanford and the Strand in walnut. They are extremely similar shoes with the exception of one being a blucher and the other a balmoral, and the different lasts. Both have their pros and cons, but what finally bumped me towards the Sanfords was that the creasing kept happening below the captoe in the Strand, whereas on the Sanford it stayed above the cap. I guess it is the way the 5 last fits my foot, but with the PA's I don't have to worry about the creasing due to the short cap.
 
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New Shoes1

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I think you indeed hit on an important point with your comment above on the PA's. Many complain that the PA's caps are too short, but for me it is precisely the short cap which keeps them from creasing in the wrong location. I debated for a long time between the Sanford and the Strand in walnut. They are extremely similar shoes with the exception of one being a blucher and the other a balmoral, and the different lasts. Both have their pros and cons, but what finally bumped me towards the Sanfords was that the creasing kept happening below the captoe in the Strand, whereas on the Sanford it stayed above the cap. I guess it is the way the 5 last fits my foot, but with the PA's I don't have to worry about the creasing due to the short cap.

You're wearing the wrong size if your Strands creased between the captoe line and the toe of the shoe. The Park Avenues could move the captoe line to the same place as on the Cliftons and Strands and would crease in the right place if they fit well. I have Strands, C&J and Andrew Lock captoes with a much more well placed captoe line and all have creased between the laces and the captoe line.
 

MoneyWellSpent

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You're wearing the wrong size if your Strands creased between the captoe line and the toe of the shoe. The Park Avenues could move the captoe line to the same place as on the Cliftons and Strands and would crease in the right place if they fit well. I have Strands, C&J and Andrew Lock captoes with a much more well placed captoe line and all have creased between the laces and the captoe line.

This is entirely possible. The problem is, the shoes were extremely comfortable. I tried on other length/width combinations to see if there was any way to get the right creasing along with a comfortable fit, and I never found the right combination. I respect your opinion and experience, but the shoes I rejected fitted well. I suppose it may be a valid question of the last not agreeing with my foot. There are certain guidelines as to where the shoe should crease if it is fitting properly, but they are guidelines rather than hard and fast rules.
 

kentyman

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Could anyone provide photo's of the Strand Bourbon Calf in the wild? I can't seem to find any. Much appreciated.

Please see my original post for various pics.

Edit: Or my current avatar.
 
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clarksdb

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I've read this critique elsewhere, but In person I don't see how they could look plasticky. Particularly after they have been worn a bit, they get a great patina. It is, however, personal preference.
I also think shell's creasing is much better looking than calf's.
Care is actually quite simple - brush them if you want to make them look good. Once you get past the initial break in (and "spewing" of extra oils) they really only require a minute or so of brushing to freshen up their look.
They also have the ability to last a long time. The leather is thicker and hardy, so you will get away with banging them on things that would kill a calfskin shoe.
Finally, once broken in and worn for a while, they get very soft and ultra comfortable. Seriously, I have a pair that is so soft that the vamp will start to collapse in unless there are shoe trees in them.



I agree here.  If you can fork out the extra money for shell cordovan, the longevity of the leather upper should be quite longer than calfskin.  One question that is hard to find an answer to, however, is whether or not the shoe itself will last longer over all.  The general consensus is that goodyear welted shoes can go through about 4-5 recraftings before they are done for.  I haven't heard any reports that shell can withstand a greater number of recraftings.  I don't think it is unfair to say that a shell cordovan shoe at 20 years old will look significantly better than a calf skin shoe at 20 years old.  This is a great video on the making of shell cordovan by the way:  just in case you haven't seen it. 



Interesting stuff guys, thanks for the info. Is there an AE shell shoe in particular that should be in one's rotation?




Also, I wanted to ask something about some shoes I am seeing on ebay for quite a discount (~$50). Most of them have a **** on one shoe. Is this a major defect or something that would be hard to notice when worn?

400
 

New Shoes1

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This is entirely possible. The problem is, the shoes were extremely comfortable. I tried on other length/width combinations to see if there was any way to get the right creasing along with a comfortable fit, and I never found the right combination. I respect your opinion and experience, but the shoes I rejected fitted well. I suppose it may be a valid question of the last not agreeing with my foot. There are certain guidelines as to where the shoe should crease if it is fitting properly, but they are guidelines rather than hard and fast rules.

The bolded may be the issue. I was primarily disagreeing with your assertion that any shoe like the Strand with a well placed cap-toe line (as opposed to where the PA line is) will crease between that line and the toes.
 
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Winston S.

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Interesting stuff guys, thanks for the info. Is there an AE shell shoe in particular that should be in one's rotation?
Also, I wanted to ask something about some shoes I am seeing on ebay for quite a discount (~$50). Most of them have a **** on one shoe. Is this a major defect or something that would be hard to notice when worn?
400


I also saw those shoes on the 'bay. We must be the same size. I passed on them due to the cut. They probably won't be seen if you are wearing pants, but if you are wearing shorts or pants that do not break on your shoe, it will probably be visible. Personally, that was too much of a defect for me.
 

MoneyWellSpent

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I think you indeed hit on an important point with your comment above on the PA's. Many complain that the PA's caps are too short, but for me it is precisely the short cap which keeps them from creasing in the wrong location. I debated for a long time between the Sanford and the Strand in walnut. They are extremely similar shoes with the exception of one being a blucher and the other a balmoral, and the different lasts. Both have their pros and cons, but what finally bumped me towards the Sanfords was that the creasing kept happening below the captoe in the Strand, whereas on the Sanford it stayed above the cap. I guess it is the way the 5 last fits my foot, but with the PA's I don't have to worry about the creasing due to the short cap.

The bolded may be the issue. I was primarily disagreeing with your assertion that any shoe like the Strand with a well placed cap-toe line (as opposed to where the PA line is) will crease between that line and the toes.

Ahh, sorry for the miscommunication then. See above, where I said that for me it is what keeps them from creasing in the wrong location. In other words, the last may be prone to creasing too close to the toe on my foot. So as long as the shoe is comfortable, I am able to wear a Park Avenue precisely because the cap is closer to the toe.
 
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