٭٭٭ No Man Walks Alone - Official Affiliate Thread ٭٭٭ (a.k.a. I shouldn't have slept on it)

[tgaith77]

Steph's a fan of it too

 

[gurakshun]

does anyone know what happened to the sartoria formosa on the website? I was just about ready to get a suit...

 

[wdahab]

With Rota, I love my Brooklyn and Manhattans. Fit and cut are amazing. I just wish they came with either an unhemmed end or more material. They are a fun inseam length, but there's no room to have my tailor cuff them, and I think they could really do with an optional cuff.

 

[gdl203]

With Rota, I love my Brooklyn and Manhattans. Fit and cut are amazing. I just wish they came with either an unhemmed end or more material. They are a fun inseam length, but there's no room to have my tailor cuff them, and I think they could really do with an optional cuff.

Has your tailor actually looked at the amount of material and told you he could not add cuffs? What about a faux cuff (without the 3 layers of fabric)?

 

[gdl203]

does anyone know what happened to the sartoria formosa on the website? I was just about ready to get a suit...

there have been issues with all the collection pages / maker pages today, not just Formosa. We're trying to understand what is happening and fix it

 

[wdahab]

Has your tailor actually looked at the amount of material and told you he could not add cuffs? What about a faux cuff (without the 3 layers of fabric)?

There’s less than 2.5” of extra fabric as they come. A 1.5” cuff needs 4” of material and with the cuff I’d rather add an inch or so to the inseam so even less excess, and that would leave not enough for a faux cuff.

A shorter guy could get a cuff out of them because they could take up the short inseam a bit. I take a 32” inseam standard, so they are already a bit cropped as is, there’s no extra material to gain by going shorter.

There is enough excess for a longer plain hem, which still looks great. Just wish I could cuff them.

 

[gdl203]

There’s less than 2.5” of extra fabric as they come. A 1.5” cuff needs 4” of material and with the cuff I’d rather add an inch or so to the inseam so even less excess, and that would leave not enough for a faux cuff.

A shorter guy could get a cuff out of them because they could take up the short inseam a bit. I take a 32” inseam standard, so they are already a bit cropped as is, there’s no extra material to gain by going shorter.

There is enough excess for a longer plain hem, which still looks great. Just wish I could cuff them.

OK, I'm just trying to help you get what you want here (without having to order something MTM) so I'll ask again and sorry if it seems repetitive: have you asked your tailor about putting a faux cuff? Because you certainly do NOT need 4 inches of fabric to create a 1.5" cuff. It may be worth asking him/her and see what they can do.

Otherwise, there is always the MTO/MTM route

 

[gdl203]

For clarification, this is what I am talking about. Your tailor can also add kick tape (heel guard) to reinforce and add weight.

 

[wdahab]

For clarification, this is what I am talking about. Your tailor can also add kick tape (heel guard) to reinforce and add weight.

That’s fair, I hadn’t really thought about that method. I don’t have the worlds best tailors out here, but I will check on it.

I mean it hasn’t kept me from buying 4 pairs of Rota Big Pants (3x BK and 1x Manhattan) so it’s not the biggest deal. And I’m sure I have more in my future.

 

[gdl203]

That’s fair, I hadn’t really thought about that method. I don’t have the worlds best tailors out here, but I will check on it.

I mean it hasn’t kept me from buying 4 pairs of Rota Big Pants (3x BK and 1x Manhattan) so it’s not the biggest deal. And I’m sure I have more in my future.

I'm only suggesting it because a tailor of mine suggested it many years ago when there was not enough fabric for a regular cuff, and since then have used that method many many times with great success. If you have 1/2" inch or more of fabric beyond where you'd like to hem, the tailor can do this for you. It is not a complex alteration at all - just a line of stitching to create the depth of the top pleat and then hem the bottom as usual.

Something to think about... and could increase the enjoyment you get out of these pants

 

[true.to.size]

For clarification, this is what I am talking about. Your tailor can also add kick tape (heel guard) to reinforce and add weight.

Me, as an amateur tailor who hems my own pants and has often been discouraged by pants with an inseam that is just a tad too short.

 

[conceptual 4est]

This Friday also sees our first delivery from Portuguese Flannel. They've really grown their offerings so we took advantage of some of the heavier weight options this time around to supplement the usual flannels and chore coats. There will be restocks of things like the Bonfim (blackwatch), Teca (solid twill flannels) corduroy Labura jackets, etc, but here's the new heat. I'll start off with those heavyweight options since they're top of mind.



Hard Rude is dense, hard, and has tons of slub. Not brushed like some of the others but really just slubby and crisp instead.




Equally heavy (or maybe more?) the soft rude is majorly brushed on the outside and gives a great fuzzy galactic feel to the very pretty donegal. Very much overshirt territory here.



The Tirol feels like the same quality as some previous heavyweight flannels we've had from them in case you own any of those, but the colorway on this plaid is sooooo good in person. It's vibrant but not particularly loud, if you can believe it. It just feels very natural - I'm thinking cords and some Tyrolean (heh) shoes for this one.



And similar to the above is the Nords - just another great colorway of heavyweight flannel in a large scale check.



We've had plenty of Lobo corduroy overshirts and they're always good. I just wanted to highlight a few new colors like the grey and a green that is more saturated than is typical for this shirt from them. Perfect both as an overshirt and as a mid-layer in the cold, I love wearing mine unbuttoned over a tee in the fall or buttoned up underneath a shearling or my Grizzly in the winter.




Onto the regular weight flannels, two new Tecas - an indigo blue that uses white and blue twill to bring it sort of close to a denim flannel in appearance, and an autumnal forest green. Hard to go wrong.



A few more options for regular weight checked flannels - gotta have something for everyone. The last one is what really caught my eye though - it looks like 90s Banana Republic or Ralph or something to me, which in turn makes it feel extremely current. I'm all for it.



Lastly, while we'll have more wool overshirts / shirt jackets later this season from them, this is the newest color of the Wool Field overshirt. We've had a forest green one in the past that was beautiful, but this one takes on a much cooler (temperature-wise) hue with its melange of emerald green and black.

 

[conceptual 4est]

Sage de Cret is here as well, and this is the first time we're seeing a special 10th Anniversary exclusive style (please clap.) for the season. And it's one you don't want to miss.

I'll save that for last though and kick off with a pair of work shirts that end up being very different from each other despite sharing a design.



6oz denim, naturally indigo dyed and washed, this one is so chock full of little details that make it feel really special. Spending time with it I found myself geeking out about the little details and getting giddy in a way that felt very nostalgic for this seasoned old man. It just feels like a really well executed garment. The roping is beautiful, the buttons are perfect, and there is a great little blip in the yoke that adds some character. Instant favorite kind of piece.



On the other side, we rarely do checks with SdC but this was too good not to pass up. Totally different vibe but still a really well-done overshirt.



And speaking of checks, some more flannel here with tonal grey and charcoal. Open collar, boxy fit, would be badass with some black denim and your favorite boots. Could also pair just as nicely open over a white tee with some sneakers. Can't miss.


For trousers we did all easy pants. Pegtop Baker pants here with the appropriate baker pant style pockets. The washed cotton linen is perfect for the style, and I love the way the color faded around the seams (including that extra large outseam )



But how about in an olive wool serge? This is the kind of thing we can always count on SdC executing extremely well, as they've been working with this sort of fabric since the beginning.



And regular pegtop pants in navy tumbled wool. With their roomy upper, nice taper, and washed fluffy wool, they really do feel like swears or PJs, just a whole lot cooler.




And the pièce de résistance! Made up for our 10th anniversary, we went back to one of our first seasons for this one. It's not a reissue of the legendary bunny coat, but more like a remaster. The concept is the same but everything has been reimagined to be better. The outer is now a dense waxed cotton canvas, the lining is of course fully removable and is now a very high-quality faux fur, with the colors of both coming together perfectly. A truly special item for the store in so many ways.

 

[sushijerk]

Very excited to see these 10th anv pieces.

 

[gdl203]

Thanks Kyle - we won't be dropping the bunny parka this week. We're waiting for a few more special anniversary styles to drop a first installment of the anniversary capsule.

For those wondering why faux fur, it's simply that SdC and Kimi have stopped using fur a long while ago, so no bunny or coyote fur on this one. We spent quite a bit of time and back and forth looking at swatches and samples of different faux fur to use for this piece and I think we ended up making the right choice. It looks and feels so great