٭٭٭ No Man Walks Alone - Official Affiliate Thread ٭٭٭ (a.k.a. I shouldn't have slept on it)

[metranger8694]

Yes it will most definitely darken and patina

If I have a 35-36 inch waist, best to order a medium or large belt?

Does the leather stretch in time?

 

[gdl203]

Hmmm... I guess you could wear both depending on the look you prefer (M would leave a very small part out of the buckle, L would have a longer tail)

These belts naturally have a LOT of stretch in them because of the linked construction. Stretches when pulled and then bounces back

 

[metranger8694]

Hmmm... I guess you could wear both depending on the look you prefer (M would leave a very small part out of the buckle, L would have a longer tail)

These belts naturally have a LOT of stretch in them because of the linked construction. Stretches when pulled and then bounces back

Thanks.

25 mm. wide? Not listed on site.....

 

[Odd I/O]

Is there an appreciable difference between 'full' hand made G. Inglese shirts and the partially hand made ones other than price? Do the 'full' hand made ones last longer, fit better or drape better? Or is it only psychological? I'm just wondering if the price difference is worth it.

 

[IJReilly]



Is there an appreciable difference between 'full' hand made G. Inglese shirts and the partially hand made ones other than price? Do the 'full' hand made ones last longer, fit better or drape better? Or is it only psychological? I'm just wondering if the price difference is worth it.

I have no experience with G. Inglese, but I own shirts which span from almost fully handmade (Truzzi, Mozzarelli, both on MTM) to partially (Mastai Ferreti, MTM) to fully machine made, cheaper (but still nice) shirts. Whether or not anything is hand made doesn't matter at all in terms of how the shirt feels or lasts. That is entirely decided by the fabric and fit according to my experience. Many stitches are also better done my machine than by hand.

Some people like the idea that their clothes are handmade, and that they are supporting artisans, however.

 

[IJReilly]

Out of curiosity, have you guys ever considered The Gigi?

 

[gdl203]

Is there an appreciable difference between 'full' hand made G. Inglese shirts and the partially hand made ones other than price?

What a question. Do you really think that we would sell two different levels of construction with no appreciable difference other than the fact that one is more expensive than the other? What would that be, some sort of social experiment? A blatant attempt to gouge our customers?

There is a significant difference between the two levels - one has hand-stitching everywhere, hand-rolled hem, etc... white the other has 5 hand passes. That's a couple of hours of extra hand-work by one of the seamstresses in the workshop.

Do the 'full' hand made ones last longer, fit better or drape better? Or is it only psychological? I'm just wondering if the price difference is worth it.

The pattern is exactly the same and the parts that count for fit (collar and shoulder attachment) are done by hand on both - so there should be no difference in fit or drape. There should also be no specific difference in how long they will last - that's a matter of how shirts are maintained and cared for. The feel and longevity is also a matter of the fabric quality. We use great fabrics from the best shirting mills for both types of shirts, but for the most expensive fabrics, we tend to go with the handmade construction to do them justice.

The difference is not psychological at all - it is tangible and objective. The end product is different and more expensive to make. Whether the difference is worth it is up to each person and what they care about. Nothing wrong with the partially handmade Inglese - they're fantastic shirts and IMO the best one can find for that value. Most of our customers have a mix of both.

 

[gdl203]

I have no experience with G. Inglese, but I own shirts which span from almost fully handmade (Truzzi, Mozzarelli, both on MTM) to partially (Mastai Ferreti, MTM) to fully machine made, cheaper (but still nice) shirts. Whether or not anything is hand made doesn't matter at all in terms of how the shirt feels or lasts. That is entirely decided by the fabric and fit according to my experience. Many stitches are also better done my machine than by hand.

Some people like the idea that their clothes are handmade, and that they are supporting artisans, however.

Neither Truzzi or Mazzarelli make fully handmade shirts or anything that resembles that. Their top level of make is what we call "partially handmade" with Inglese.

The only RTW shirt maker that makes something that is close (still not as much handwork) as the G. Inglese handmade level is Kiton - and the price of their shirts is more than double the Inglese ones, with inferior collar shape and details IMO.

 

[clee1982]

To me hand made shirt is a bit like well done button hole (by hand), doesn't make the clothe better. Quality, fit or longevity is the same either way, it's simply do you appreciate it or not is the fundamental question (and are you willing to pay up for it, I personally don't though I'm pretty sure plenty would)

 

[gdl203]

Out of curiosity, have you guys ever considered The Gigi?

I got the chance to see the collections in person in Florence every season, but I can't say that I ever seriously considered it. The taste level is... well.. off IMO

 

[razl]



Is there an appreciable difference between 'full' hand made G. Inglese shirts and the partially hand made ones other than price? Do the 'full' hand made ones last longer, fit better or drape better? Or is it only psychological? I'm just wondering if the price difference is worth it.

There is a significant difference between the two levels - one has hand-stitching everywhere, hand-rolled hem, etc... white the other has 5 hand passes.  That's a couple of hours of extra hand-work by one of the seamstresses in the workshop.  
...
The difference is not psychological at all - it is tangible and objective.  The end product is different and more expensive to make.  Whether the difference is worth it is up to each person and what they care about.    Nothing wrong with the partially handmade Inglese - they're fantastic shirts and IMO the best one can find for that value.   Most of our customers have a mix of both.

The blog "Made by Hand - The Great Sartorial Debate" covered this in great detail recently - the romance, practicality, and implications of handmade versus not in today's world - here. As with all of his posts, very worth reading.

 

[IJReilly]



Neither Truzzi or Mazzarelli make fully handmade shirts or anything that resembles that.    Their top level of make is what we call "partially handmade" with Inglese.   

Thanks for the clarification.

I would also like to amend my comment a bit, as it came off as a bit unfair and dismissive. Handwork on shirts really is a beautiful thing (I have four shirts with a substantial amount of handwork). As Greg states, the difference is real, objective and observable to those who know what to look for. If that is worth paying for is up to each customer. It's a bit like handsewn buttonholes. I enjoy having it on a few jackets, but it's not something I feel is necessary or very important.

I also have to say that the G. Inglese pricing is pretty impressive. I paid substantially more for my Truzzi and Mazzarelli MTM shirts with a comparable level of handwork.

 

[sprout2]

I got the chance to see the collections in person in Florence every season, but I can't say that I ever seriously considered it. The taste level is... well.. off IMO

Who is their target demographic?

 

[msg]



Who is their target demographic?

#gvlifestyle

 

[IJReilly]



Who is their target demographic?

I think the brand is best thought of as a bold and experimental approach to tailoring, especially concerning fabrics. It's not meant for the kind of people who think of wearing navy trousers as breaking some kind of rule. Perhaps it's for a younger crowd who enjoy tailoring, but not a traditional style?

I personally like their approach and many of their concepts, but in practice I feel their garments are pretty hit and miss with the majority being misses. The brand is interesting in the sense that it is sold in both fashion forward and conceptual stores and traditional tailoring shops in Europe, much like their previous brand Boglioli. Due to this, the brand can appear very different depending on who did the buying. For example, you never see anyone buy the more experimental fabrics in Sweden, it's all navy blazers and grey suits. I personally appreciate how I have seen the Japanese wear it, and I hope to see the brand flourish as it develops.