• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Search results

  1. Sator

    sleeve length

     None of these photos means much. Even if the sleeves were finished with no shirt showing with arms at the sides, once you strike those poses the shirt will always show.
  2. Sator

    sleeve length

    More Thom Browne:
  3. Sator

    sleeve length

     Do you have any citations to prove this? I have spent years and years researching this painstakingly. It's been a journey like hunting the bottom of Loch Ness looking for my monster. Alas, I cannot find any evidence that there ever was a steafast 1/2" rule. I am afraid this and are few...
  4. Sator

    Australian Members

    I have heard stories from tailors about how FJ made amazing stuff in its day. The quality was top notch. At one point the FJ factory was the biggest producer of tailored garments in the world, I believe. They also sourced a lot of their cloth from Aussie mills, so you could get high end tailored...
  5. Sator

    Made in China is now high end?

    ^ There is, of course, the view that modern pop culture, pop consumerism, and mass spectator sport, all massively amplified in significance by popular media is an infinitely more effective "opiate of the people" than religion ever was. Why bother with being politically or socially aware when you...
  6. Sator

    Made in China is now high end?

     The truly bizarre thing is that Lenin certainly - and Mao probably - looked at the society they had set up, and gasped over the fact that it was nothing like what Marx's "scientific predictions" stated - a gradual evolution of the more industrial societies driven by an enlightened populace...
  7. Sator

    Made in China is now high end?

     This is the standard propaganda that Communist China comes up with because they desperately need Japan to be the scapegoat that takes the heat off them: http://www.jiyuushikan.org/e/reparations.html http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_war_apology_statements_issued_by_Japan...
  8. Sator

    Made in China is now high end?

     I don't believe there is any legal precedent anywhere that absolves a nation of past genocide just because there has been a change in the membership of the top leadership. Doubly so when the very same Party that committed the atrocities remains in power. Both the German and Japanese...
  9. Sator

    Made in China is now high end?

    Is it me who's 50 years or more off? The Nazis (National Socialist Party) were thrown out of power at the end of WWII. When you buy German goods a bit of your money does go to the German government, but that is currently Angela Merkel's democratically elected CDU. Not a single cent goes to the...
  10. Sator

    Made in China is now high end?

    I can tell you a bespoke tailor would kill for some of the sophisticated equipment that a factory can afford. Also what's wrong with fusing again???? :) I am not entirely sure that China will become a source of high end garment manufacture. This depends on how quickly wages rise there and the...
  11. Sator

    King of the Roped Shoulder

    A dictionary gives me the translation of insellata as "saddle back". In any case, I'm just telling you what I have been taught my an Italian tailor. The concave curve of a saddle is where the name derives from.
  12. Sator

    King of the Roped Shoulder

     So do these shoulders which go under a different name amongst the iGentry: At least padding is something that originates in men's tailoring. But along with military styled epaulettes these are sometimes imported into ladies' tailoring to give a deliberately masculine look.
  13. Sator

    King of the Roped Shoulder

    Insellata means "saddle" in Italian. I am told the Italians also call it a donkey's shoulder. The English word is "concave shoulder". It is traditionally regarded as a mark of fine tailoring, although it actually goes in and out of fashion. For example it was fashionable in the 1920s, and the...
  14. Sator

    Australian Members

     Rumour has it that they have them made in China for a cost price of about $15 AUD. When placed amongst a lot of more expensive Italian goods, the $700 starts to like a bargain :nodding:
  15. Sator

    Synthetic lining fabrics

    Viscose used to be classified as a synthetic fibre because the fibre is not found pre-formed in nature. However, like rayon, it is essentially made up of cellulose ie the basic constituent of paper and wood pulp. Some firms use the flowers and stems of cotton plants. For these reasons, viscose...
  16. Sator

    Tom Ford

    May I suggest that you guys also keep in mind the fact that many of the style features on a Ford are knocks of the Tommy Nutter-Edward Sexton styles of the 1970s. Edward Sexton says as much about the Ford look. The narrow-high waisted cut with high-concave shoulders and wide bellied lapels are...
  17. Sator

    How to choose the right suit for your body type

    ^ Hurray for Chris! Even better advice: go to him to have a suit made for you.
  18. Sator

    blogs / tumblrs that I visit regularly

    I've been posting at Tumblr at fair bit of late. A lot of people find my forum too technically orientated but my Tumblr allows me to showcase the huge depth and scope of styling issues that the forum covers. http://thecutterandtailorforum.tumblr.com/
  19. Sator

    Recent non-Sartorialist Looks

     You aren't saying anything I don't know a thousand times over. But I've ready said that in the '60s the coats were never that exaggerated as modern catwalk bum freezers or the Albini. I also have plenty of fashion plates and drafts with longer coat lengths from the '60s.
  20. Sator

    Recent non-Sartorialist Looks

     Nutter is different. I think his cut is an evolution of the New Edwardian style and reversed the trend towards short skirts and replaced it with a longer and flared skirt. Here is Walter Albini in 1972 with a catwalk bum freezer...

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 97 37.3%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 93 35.8%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 30 11.5%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 44 16.9%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 39 15.0%

Forum statistics

Threads
507,302
Messages
10,595,355
Members
224,406
Latest member
617max
Top