Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[bdavro23]

Question for the crowd - how would you approach the following thinly veiled hypothetical scenario:

You’ve ordered a couple of bespoke jackets from a tailor at a trunk show. They had proper fittings and you were happy with the results.

You order next time around, provide your own fabric for the commission, ask for the same basic thing with regard to style details and a) it’s done straight to finish (no based/forward fitting, just 1 round of post completion adjustments) without any communication on that change, and b) the lapels are significantly bigger (from 4” to 4.5”) than you’re prior order.

Also important to note, there’s no proper full length mirror at the trunk show just a bathroom sink mirror and mirror on the floor for lower leg/break-line) so you don’t get a full sense of these changes and don’t register these concerns at thr minor fitting and don’t actually realize it until you receive it.

You receive the items and you’re not happy with the result, and potentially considering walking away from future orders.

Do you:
A) say nothing, take your lumps and walk away
B) say something, but still walk away
C) ask them what they can do to make it right
D) ask for a full do over

Fully realizing most people take a swing and a miss on their sartorial journey…curious how the people here would handle the next steps.

I'm not sure it's reasonable to expect them to address issues that they arent aware of. If you dont give them the opportunity to address your concerns, I'm not sure its a fair stance to be upset with them. You can obviously move on, but the most consistent marker of a good business I have found is their commitment to resolving issues when things go wrong.

 

[classicalthunde]

I'm not sure it's reasonable to expect them to address issues that they arent aware of. If you dont give them the opportunity to address your concerns, I'm not sure its a fair stance to be upset with them. You can obviously move on, but the most consistent marker of a good business I have found is their commitment to resolving issues when things go wrong.

that's far...it was probably just more of a rant after receiving something anticipated that didn't meet expectations...which I guess happens to most (everyone?) at some point in the bespoke game.

I've calmed down a bit and come to terms with it and am emailing them about what is possible given the concerns...

 

[tdang]

Fresh out of the box fit. Aside from the obvious wrinkles, hopefully you get an idea of the silhouette (and who the tailor is 😆). Cloth is Anglo Italian.

 

[kolecho]

View attachment 2168897

Fresh out of the box fit. Aside from the obvious wrinkles, hopefully you get an idea of the silhouette (and who the tailor is 😆). Cloth is Anglo Italian.

Qemal?

 

[tdang]

Qemal?

Interesting observation, this goes to show that sometimes results from Kotaro can turn out quite differently 😁 This one does seem to have a slightly higher buttoning point and, as a result, a higher roll that vaguely resembles those produced by Liverano’s disciples and other Florentines.
Qemal’s always been on my list though - I blame @Crispyj 😅

 

[kolecho]

Interesting observation, this goes to show that sometimes results from Kotaro can turn out quite differently 😁 This one does seem to have a slightly higher buttoning point and, as a result, a higher roll that vaguely resembles those produced by Liverano’s disciples and other Florentines.
Qemal’s always been on my list though - I blame @Crispyj 😅

Doesn't look like Kotaro's work at all based on that one pic. Doesn't have his signature long straight lapel line. The quarters are also too closed due to short front balance (which was why I guessed Qemal cos I've seen quite a few of his clients' jackets come out that way).

 

[tdang]

Doesn't look like Kotaro's work at all based on that one pic. Doesn't have his signature long straight lapel line. The quarters are also too closed due to short front balance (which was why I guessed Qemal cos I've seen quite a few of his clients' jacket come out that way).

Right?? The fitting doesn’t look that way at all:

I guess I’ll let it relax for a bit and wear it a few times before taking some update pics. I certainly don’t hate the silhouette though - it’s its own thing.

 

[jonathanS]

Doesn't look like Kotaro's work at all based on that one pic. Doesn't have his signature long straight lapel line. The quarters are also too closed due to short front balance (which was why I guessed Qemal cos I've seen quite a few of his clients' jackets come out that way).

Right?? The fitting doesn’t look that way at all:
View attachment 2168925

I guess I’ll let it relax for a bit and wear it a few times before taking some update pics. I certainly don’t hate the silhouette though - it’s its own thing.

I was looking at that too. Especially the closed quarters. For a second, I wondered if it was a Japanese tailor. Perhaps it’s just the photo, wear it a bit, and report back. I noticed the quarters were a bit closed on my latest order from kotaro, but it’s a navy suit, so I thought it was in keeping with the fabric. I thought kotaro opened the quarters more on jackets like your fitting photo.

Qemal is also on my list of tailors I’d like to try, but I can’t justify building a new tailoring relationship with another Florentine tailor when you’re splitting hairs. Especially a tailor where I’d have to trek into the Tuscan countryside for. I’d be more inclined to work with a different ex liverano tailor, one in Florence. But it’s not an inexpensive endeavor to form a new relationship.

 

[ppk]

Going to be in Lucca this summer. It's going to be hard to resist making an appointment with Qemal.

 

[tim_horton]

I have a mohair suit in the works with Qemal. I think one more fitting and it will be ready.

 

[WhereNext]

Got measured this weekend by B&Tailor when they were in Shanghai. Measurements were very thorough; I kept things pretty simple by just basically telling them to make me a suit in the house style (with the exception that I’m getting a 1 button jacket). There was some…….confusion? Concern? Consternation?…about the fabric choice as there were a few double checks that I wanted a suit and not a sportcoat in the Golden Fox. I don’t think it will make up too boldly, but it’s obviously not Conservative Business Dress stuff. This will be the lightest weight suit I have by a little bit, so we’ll see how it performs in hot and humid summers (had the jacket quarter lined, as well) where nothing REALLY works.
https://foxflannel.com/collections/golden-fox/products/golden-fox-miniature-camel-gunclub-check

https://foxflannel.com/cdn/shop/products/GF4_GoldenMiniatureCamelGunclubCheck_FoxBrothersCloth_1200x.jpg?v=1655305054

 

[ppk]

Got measured this weekend by B&Tailor when they were in Shanghai. Measurements were very thorough; I kept things pretty simple by just basically telling them to make me a suit in the house style (with the exception that I’m getting a 1 button jacket). There was some…….confusion? Concern? Consternation?…about the fabric choice as there were a few double checks that I wanted a suit and not a sportcoat in the Golden Fox. I don’t think it will make up too boldly, but it’s obviously not Conservative Business Dress stuff. This will be the lightest weight suit I have by a little bit, so we’ll see how it performs in hot and humid summers (had the jacket quarter lined, as well) where nothing REALLY works.
https://foxflannel.com/collections/golden-fox/products/golden-fox-miniature-camel-gunclub-check

https://foxflannel.com/cdn/shop/products/GF4_GoldenMiniatureCamelGunclubCheck_FoxBrothersCloth_1200x.jpg?v=1655305054

That fabric is gorgeous!

 

[clee1982]

I would not have thought use that fabric for suit either, not a question of bold or not for me, just not use to gunclub as suit I suppose

 

[Nero1626]

Got measured this weekend by B&Tailor when they were in Shanghai. Measurements were very thorough; I kept things pretty simple by just basically telling them to make me a suit in the house style (with the exception that I’m getting a 1 button jacket). There was some…….confusion? Concern? Consternation?…about the fabric choice as there were a few double checks that I wanted a suit and not a sportcoat in the Golden Fox. I don’t think it will make up too boldly, but it’s obviously not Conservative Business Dress stuff. This will be the lightest weight suit I have by a little bit, so we’ll see how it performs in hot and humid summers (had the jacket quarter lined, as well) where nothing REALLY works.
https://foxflannel.com/collections/golden-fox/products/golden-fox-miniature-camel-gunclub-check

https://foxflannel.com/cdn/shop/products/GF4_GoldenMiniatureCamelGunclubCheck_FoxBrothersCloth_1200x.jpg?v=1655305054

was hoping that B&T and Assisi would travel to more cities in China. I think Luca Museo is the only Korean tailor who holds trunk shows in HK with Coller. Anyway, looking forward to seeing your commission from B&T.

 

[tim_horton]

Got measured this weekend by B&Tailor when they were in Shanghai. Measurements were very thorough; I kept things pretty simple by just basically telling them to make me a suit in the house style (with the exception that I’m getting a 1 button jacket). There was some…….confusion? Concern? Consternation?…about the fabric choice as there were a few double checks that I wanted a suit and not a sportcoat in the Golden Fox. I don’t think it will make up too boldly, but it’s obviously not Conservative Business Dress stuff. This will be the lightest weight suit I have by a little bit, so we’ll see how it performs in hot and humid summers (had the jacket quarter lined, as well) where nothing REALLY works.
https://foxflannel.com/collections/golden-fox/products/golden-fox-miniature-camel-gunclub-check

https://foxflannel.com/cdn/shop/products/GF4_GoldenMiniatureCamelGunclubCheck_FoxBrothersCloth_1200x.jpg?v=1655305054

That’s a great looking fabric and it’s hard to find that kind of a pattern at such a light weight but for me it’s a sports coat.