Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[tuga1]

Hey! Found this forum while searching for some bespoke recommendations for jackets. Seems like you guys def know your stuff!

I'm looking to commission my first (sports? not sure if that's the correct name) jacket with a nice tweed/checks pattern to wear with denim jeans and probably dark t-shirt/knit below.

From my research it looks like the ones in Saville Row have a bigger price, ranging from 3500-6000 pounds for a jacket. The ones in Naples seem to have a more "reasonable" pricing.

Based on this, does anyone have any recommendation of good tailors for me? This is my first time in bespoke. My budget is around 2500€ tops!

Here are a few pictures I've found on Instagram and on this thread that I quite like to make it easier to show what I'm looking for:

Thank you in advance for any help!!

 

[aristoi bcn]

Zizolfi.

 

[tdang]

Another vote for Zizolfi 🙌

 

[Crispyj]

Zizolfi will do you a solid 👍

 

[kashmir]

The slight concave effect is from shaping of the canvass. A wedge is inserted in the canvass and the horse hair that creates the concave shape on these shoulders. If making a pagoda shoulder you adjust the grain line of the hymo and haircloth and stretch with an iron more than a regular shoulder.

Rollino is an expression of the sleeve cap and created by cutting the sleeve cap higher and sewing a bit more fullness around the top of the sleeve. The fullness creates a bubble effect which is the rollino effect. How much or how little fullness is sewn in determines the height of the roll.
Fullness is basted into the front of the sleeve as well and that is what creates the beautiful roll of the front of the sleeve.

Sleeveheads are made and sewn onto the outlet from the bottom of the armhole at the front, over the sleeve cap and ends a couple inches past the seam on the back of the sleeve. This fills in the bubble created by the fullness for support but doesn't create the rollino. It only reinforces it and sustains it.
If you want a natural or bald finish on the sleeve, you put less or no fullness.

The only iron work done on the sleeve is compressing and shrinking the fullness of the sleeve.

Pagoda is a shoulder expression and the sleeve is not part of it.
Ironwork on the shoulder is stretching both the cloth and the canvass to create more shape. Regular shoulder has the same stretching done but to a lesser degree. Because the canvass is cut on bias for a pagoda stye the effect is exaggerated.

like this then?

 

[tuga1]

Zizolfi will do you a solid 👍
View attachment 2157867

Thank you guys! And looking good!!

Do you know what's starting price for jacket at Zizolfi and how much time it usually takes + how many fittings? Thank you!

 

[Texasmade]

Thank you guys! And looking good!!

Do you know what's starting price for jacket at Zizolfi and how much time it usually takes + how many fittings? Thank you!

No idea on price but most first time commissions goes like this. You'll normally have at least 3 fittings sometimes 4.

1. choose fabric and get measured
2. basted fitting with all the white threads holding the piece together
3. 2nd fitting without the threads (some tailors will go straight to finish after this depending on how everything looks)
4. final fitting before going to finishing

 

[jonathanS]

Hey! Found this forum while searching for some bespoke recommendations for jackets. Seems like you guys def know your stuff!

I'm looking to commission my first (sports? not sure if that's the correct name) jacket with a nice tweed/checks pattern to wear with denim jeans and probably dark t-shirt/knit below.

From my research it looks like the ones in Saville Row have a bigger price, ranging from 3500-6000 pounds for a jacket. The ones in Naples seem to have a more "reasonable" pricing.

Based on this, does anyone have any recommendation of good tailors for me? This is my first time in bespoke. My budget is around 2500€ tops!

Here are a few pictures I've found on Instagram and on this thread that I quite like to make it easier to show what I'm looking for:

View attachment 2157813

View attachment 2157821 View attachment 2157819
Thank you in advance for any help!!

Does zizolfi travel to England?

Where are you located? Judging by pounds, I was thinking London, in which case, I’d suggest ciardi. Are you willing to travel?

 

[tuga1]

No idea on price but most first time commissions goes like this. You'll normally have at least 3 fittings sometimes 4.

1. choose fabric and get measured
2. basted fitting with all the white threads holding the piece together
3. 2nd fitting without the threads (some tailors will go straight to finish after this depending on how everything looks)
4. final fitting before going to finishing

I see, thanks! How much time is that usually spread over? 1 month+?

 

[tuga1]

Does zizolfi travel to England?

Where are you located? Judging by pounds, I was thinking London, in which case, I’d suggest ciardi. Are you willing to travel?

Hi! I'm from Portugal! And yes, def willing to travel to best location for this
(will be in Italy/Naples for a while so that's why I was considering it)

 

[CLH03]

I see, thanks! How much time is that usually spread over? 1 month+?

Depends on how many times you can visit. I would definitely not be expecting to receive a finished product in 2 months for your first ever commission. These things take a little time.

 

[Texasmade]

I see, thanks! How much time is that usually spread over? 1 month+?

For me, it's usually over a year because I have to wait for trunk shows coming through my city. If you're local then it's probably like 6-12 weeks since you don't need to wait for trunk shows.

 

[Crispyj]

Zizolfi works pretty fast. I'd say 2 months delivery if you're local. Also I have never seen a bad fitting jacket from them.

 

[S K M]

I see, thanks! How much time is that usually spread over? 1 month+?

I'm very happy with Sartoria Paone that I have used for quite a number of commissions now and have turned into my default tailor. I believe they will fit your budget as well, but reach out to them via Instagram where they are usually very responsive. Also check out the Paone appreciation thread (started by me, shameless plug) to get a sense of their house style.

Have fun in Naples! Looking forward to my own fittings there in May.

 

[jonathanS]

I'm very happy with Sartoria Paone that I have used for quite a number of commissions now and have turned into my default tailor. I believe they will fit your budget as well, but reach out to them via Instagram where they are usually very responsive. Also check out the Paone appreciation thread (started by me, shameless plug) to get a sense of their house style.

Have fun in Naples! Looking forward to my own fittings there in May.

Zizolfi works pretty fast. I'd say 2 months delivery if you're local. Also I have never seen a bad fitting jacket from them.

Paone makes more sense if you’re traveling to Napoli.

I take back my suggestion for Ciardi. I was thinking you were in London. Ciardi / zizolfi are Napoli tailors for international clients (you’re paying for convenience of travel & international marketting of the product - someone (you) is paying for Simon crompton’s free suit). Whereas paone is more of a Napoli tailor for people who travel to Napoli.

Another option is Pirozzi (mentioned a few pages back), but Pirozzi di nunzio is for international, Pirozzi di mimmo is for local.

Another option is keeping an open mind and asking people who are in Napoli for a recommendation.