Engineered Garments Fall/ Winter Preview

[familyman]

A few things jump out at me. First was the shoes. Oh the heavenly shoes. How can I justify another pair of shoes? Then I read that they were Russels and it all made sense. I have a pair of Russell boots and I'll be ordering at least one pair of shoes per year from them for quite a while. I love them.
The duffle coat is a very nice looking piece as well. I reall like the visor in the hood, it's been a feature in mountaineering jackets for at least a decade and really makes a difference in the usefulness of a hood. Stylistic and very useful, good combination. It also appears classical enough in style to be a useful garment in 10 years. Long life is also good.
The last thing that popped for me were the flannel ties. I immediately though of pairing them with a button down and wearing them under the very Filson jacket that shoreman posted. It was interesing to see him post it before I got the chance, though I'm thinking about charcoal instead of green. Another item on my winter list.
I like the double chest pockets and peak lapels on the tweed a lot. The kind of details I'm going to tuck away in my head for the day when I have someone break out a bolt of tweed and make me a jacket. I'm not a big fan of how it fits that model though and that dampened my feelings for it. How it pulls on him makes it impossible (for me) to tell what the real shape is.
All in all I really dig the clothes. Unfortunatly I won't be buying any of them as I live in stinking hot Texas and can't hardly justify the warm clothing I have let alone spend money for more. I wish I lived somewhere cold agaig. Stupid Texas.

 

[Drinkwaters]

Originally Posted by manifest v

Yo Gary/Drink... whatup with the older line with the many khaki jackets? The double breasted one was awesome. Do y'all still have some of EG's 2005 Fall/Winter line in stock? Because I really don't like much of this new line.

Manifest V,

We sold almost all we had of the 05 winter collection except for a couple of the Baseball style jackets in black bedford cord and plaid flannel shirt.

Gary

 

[minya]

Holy crap, I'm loving the mil-spec trench and engineer's jacket. I think I'm going to order those.

 

[Lucky Strike]

I really like some of them - the grey duffle, the corduroy Norfolk-ish jacket, the tweed jacket, many of the shirts - and I like some of the cravat/scarf things. Are these pricey?

Some of these come off as eh...over-engineered; too many details, extra seams, zippers, toggles, buttons, etc. They seem to be very well-made clothes, though, as far as I can see.

In the same way, I'm not keen on how the clothes are photographed; there's just too much layering, and the sum of the details comes over as fussy. In addition, the super-layering in the photos hides too much of the clothes - I have difficulties visualising many of them.

I agree on the colours being a bit dull, but this, I suspect, might also have somtehing to do with the slightly bleak lighting in the photos. I like the location, though.

 

[Brian SD]

In the same way, I'm not keen on how the clothes are photographed; there's just too much layering, and the sum of the details comes over as fussy. In addition, the super-layering in the photos hides too much of the clothes - I have difficulties visualising many of them.

I feel the same way. It's just a bit too layered for how I would wear it, though I do like seeing the array of textures and colors placed right on top of each other.

 

[LA Guy]

Originally Posted by Brian SD

I feel the same way. It's just a bit too layered for how I would wear it, though I do like seeing the array of textures and colors placed right on top of each other.

Funny, because the layering is precisely what I like about it. Okay, so I wouldn't layer *that* much, but in the winter, 3 layers, not including a tee shirt, is pretty much standard for me. I really the depth of complementary textures. The Nofolk jacket is my favorite (the color is spectacular, imo), though I think that I'd the the most wear out out the duffle, although probably in a darker color.

 

[Fuuma]

Originally Posted by LA Guy

Funny, because the layering is precisely what I like about it. Okay, so I wouldn't layer *that* much, but in the winter, 3 layers, not including a tee shirt, is pretty much standard for me. I really the depth of complementary textures. The Nofolk jacket is my favorite (the color is spectacular, imo), though I think that I'd the the most wear out out the duffle, although probably in a darker color.

The duffle looks interesting but the lighter color, while not practical, really makes it stand out.

I had posted a longer text about the collection but it seems it vanished, anyway, here's the short version: as usual for EG I'm not too fond of the bottoms (pants&shoes), like the tops and love the outerwear. That charcoal jacket in the fourth outfit is particularly attractive, I also like the trenchand it covers new ground for him.

BTW I recently saw the website of a line/collabo/side project that looked a lot like EG, only more focused on khakis, it's called coffee and cigarettes and they also made some nice stuff for the ladies.

 

[LA Guy]

Originally Posted by Fuuma

The duffle looks interesting but the lighter color, while not practical, really makes it stand out.

You're right. Problem is that I already have too much in my closet that is interesting but not practical, and thus gets little wear. It's especially important to me that outerwear be practical because 1)It is relatively expensive and 2)It gets banged around everyday, unlike, say, a shirt of a suit (for me, anyway.) I would actually get decent wear out of a darker version (Gary told me that he is getting the black Melton wool version).

 

[Fuuma]

Originally Posted by LA Guy

You're right. Problem is that I already have too much in my closet that is interesting but not practical, and thus gets little wear. It's especially important to me that outerwear be practical because 1)It is relatively expensive and 2)It gets banged around everyday, unlike, say, a shirt of a suit (for me, anyway.) I would actually get decent wear out of a darker version (Gary told me that he is getting the black Melton wool version).

Navy, black and charcoal are indeed hard to beat colors colors for a duffle, but I'd certainly wouldn't say no to an EG khaki duffle coat.

 

[SGladwell]

Given the hype around here for this line, I thought I'd be a lot more impressed. The only thing in there I could muster any interest for buying at all is the cutaway collar shirt on the second page. I do appreciate the page 2 green cord jacket and the herringbone tweed, but couldn't see myself ever wearing either one. (Because of what I do I'm allergic to tweed, but that's neither here nor there.) Even there, I don't see the point of double breast pockets, except perhaps to date the clothes as belonging to this particular season in the eyes of fashionistes. The elongated field jacket - called a "trench coat," though the only "trenchy" detail in it is the shoulder flap - is OK, but generally my taste in milsurp stuff is authentic rather than contrived.

After that, I think the collection goes way downhill. The cape thingy is just strange, and I was already tired of olive drab cotton faux military pants in 1999. Cut off his head, and the guy in the blue jackets and repp tie could be George W. Bush.

And snaps all over a duffle coat? I don't think so. That addition seems to me more a fundamental misunderstanding of the garment than a reinterpretation or remix. (Also, apropos of not much, my favorite color for dufflecoats and wool outerwear in general is loden.)

Lastly, unlike familyman I viscerally loathe the mocassins they're showing under their clothes. American preppy at its most obnoxious.

In fairness, my tastes generally run somewhere between Neapolitan classicism and the Austro-German minimalists (Helmut, Jil, Gabriele) so filter whatever I write through that prism.

 

[manifest v]

Originally Posted by Fuuma

BTW I recently saw the website of a line/collabo/side project that looked a lot like EG, only more focused on khakis, it's called coffee and cigarettes and they also made some nice stuff for the ladies.


Fuuma, is there anyway you can tell us the site's adress? Because I really would love that lighter tan/khaki colour that EG focused on last year's fall/winter line. I'm seriously really feeling depressed over missing out on that collection.

Could anyone point out some places selling that style of clothing? I know it was pretty unique... but I'm desperate.

 

[xcoldricex]

Originally Posted by amblus

my favorite collection so far. i'd wear everything ... except for maybe the trench coat.
haha i think that's the one thing i would wear, but the cut doesn't look flattering at all. most of it is wearable, just not interesting to me persay. the stuff is finely constructed yes, but if its beyond basics i like to have a little twist on it. i didn't notice the snaps on the duffle coat. i agree. that is stupid.

 

[gamelan]

Originally Posted by familyman

All in all I really dig the clothes. Unfortunatly I won't be buying any of them as I live in stinking hot Texas and can't hardly justify the warm clothing I have let alone spend money for more. I wish I lived somewhere cold agaig. Stupid Texas.

I'm in Los Angeles. I feel for you. It sucks. I might be wearing more than two layers of clothes for about a weeks worth of days in a year.

The pieces are cool no doubt, but I can't justify the expense.

Gary, you should look into getting some cold weather into Southern California.

-Jeff

 

[dusty]

I love this collection. The texture is great, and that tweed jacket may be the jacket I've been looking for for years.

 

[Fuuma]

Originally Posted by manifest v

Fuuma, is there anyway you can tell us the site's adress? Because I really would love that lighter tan/khaki colour that EG focused on last year's fall/winter line. I'm seriously really feeling depressed over missing out on that collection.

Could anyone point out some places selling that style of clothing? I know it was pretty unique... but I'm desperate.

http://www.cigarettesandcoffee.jp/index.html