best off-the-rack suits

LARon · Nov 18, 2006

Originally Posted by drizzt3117

We had this discussion a few months ago, but I would say:

1st tier:
Kiton
Brioni
Borrelli
Attolini
Oxxford
(Bijan?)

2nd tier:
Barbera
RLPL
St Andrews
Isaia
Zegna Napoli
Belvest
D'Avenza(sp?)

3rd tier:
Canali
Corneliani
Baldessarini
Armani Black label
Zegna (regular label)
Vestamenta

4th tier:
RL Blue/Black Label
Armani Collezioni
Hugo Boss

Rankings in groups are approximately in order.

I concur, except that I've never had experience with Bijan -- and not interested in changing that -- so really can't comment on it.

timeless · Nov 20, 2006

Originally Posted by LARon

Attolini is represented by Borrelli, whose suits are made by Attolini.
Are you sure that Borrelli suits are made by Attolini? I think they are now manufacturing their garments in house. Maybe Soph knows for sure.

Jared · Nov 21, 2006

It would be good if we could polish this to the point of sticking it or putting it on the Wiki or something. Here are my (presumably hopelessly confused) notes just from reading the archives (0.5 steps are fuzzier than 1.0 steps): 0.5st Tier: Attolini, Oxxford, Kiton 1st Tier: Attolini/Sartorio, Attolini/Sartoria, Isaia/Gianluca, Brioni, Zegna/Napoli, Isaia/Enrico 2nd Tier: Boss/Baldessarini, Canali/Exclusive, Ralph Lauren/Purple Label, Belvest, Barbera, Borrelli, D'Avenza, Pal Zileri/Sartoriale, Cantarelli, Ravazzolo, Nervesa, Castangia, Cifonelli, St. Andrews 2.5th Tier: Hickey Freeman, Neiman Marcus/Marcus, Donna Karan/Couture 3rd Tier: Armani/Classico, Canali, Zegna/Ermenegildo, Pal Zileri, Armani/Black Label, Vestimenta, Samuelsohn 3.5th Tier: Cerruti/1881 (not Nina), Corneliani, Gucci 4th Tier: Armani/Collezioni, Ralph Lauren/Polo, Pal Zileri/Gruppo, Armani/Emporio 5th Tier: Armani/Mani, Boss/Boss, Canali/Proposta, Pal Zileri/Pull, Zegna/Soft, Strellson, Isaia/Napoli 6th Tier: Ralph Lauren/others

DocHolliday · Nov 21, 2006

Originally Posted by Jared

It would be good if we could polish this to the point of sticking it or putting it on the Wiki or something. Here are my (presumably hopelessly confused) notes just from reading the archives (0.5 steps are fuzzier than 1.0 steps):

The problem is that you'd never reach consensus on such a specific ranking. Even trying to compare handwork inevitably ends up mired in a huge argument. For example, I certainly wouldn't put Canali above Corneliani in terms of overall quality; others may disagree. But so much of it aesthetic anyway. I love my Cornelianis, while my sole Oxxford suit sits in the back of my closet.

patrickBOOTH · Nov 21, 2006

Dior
Thom Browne
Armani Black Label
Ralph Lauren Black/Purple Label
Ermenegildo Zegna

Jared · Nov 21, 2006

Originally Posted by DocHolliday

The problem is that you'd never reach consensus on such a specific ranking. Even trying to compare handwork inevitably ends up mired in a huge argument. For example, I certainly wouldn't put Canali above Corneliani in terms of overall quality; others may disagree. But so much of it aesthetic anyway. I love my Cornelianis, while my sole Oxxford suit sits in the back of my closet.
Of course we couldn't reach an exact consensus, but could we at least reach consensus at a general level? For example, no members would argue with the assertion that an Oxxford is higher quality than a Mani. A specific level is difficult, perhaps j could set up a forum just to be filled with polls on the topic.

Personally, I don't think it's that important, but if any group of people could come up with a comprehensive ranking it's probably SF. And if a ranking isn't available, won't this be a perennial FAQ?

lockey2k · Nov 21, 2006

You could always do it like team balloting where each member ranks brands in order with each vote worth so many points. e.g. first place vote worth 15 pts second place worth 14 etc.

One issue of course is deciding on a final list of candidates.

Another possibility is to have a vote off, where you bracket brands in a head to head. Unfortunately, that may result is some skewed results.

A Y · Nov 21, 2006

Originally Posted by LARon

Attolini is represented by Borrelli, whose suits are made by Attolini.

I don't think that's the case, unless it's a very recent development.

--Andre

Jared · Nov 21, 2006

Originally Posted by lockey2k

You could always do it like team balloting where each member ranks brands in order with each vote worth so many points. e.g. first place vote worth 15 pts second place worth 14 etc. One issue of course is deciding on a final list of candidates. Another possibility is to have a vote off, where you bracket brands in a head to head. Unfortunately, that may result is some skewed results.
Aw crap, when you put it like that it becomes clear that Arrow's Impossibility Theorem says it can't be done.

Kai · Nov 21, 2006

The best off the rack suits in my opinion are Canali.

Canali clearly are not the highest quality off the rack suit, but I don't think they can be beat for the price.

If I were going to pay more than it costs for a Canali, I'd buy a bespoke suit. Paying Kiton or Brioni prices for off the rack just doesn't make sense to me when I can get a full bespoke suit for the same (or less) money.

grimslade · Nov 21, 2006

This perplexes me a bit too. I can't see paying Brioni prices when you could go bespoke for that price. I suppose the same is true for Kiton and Oxxford.

The Devil's Hands · Nov 21, 2006

I'd say the best you can do for the money is the $400 HF suits you can get from the outlets.

DocHolliday · Nov 21, 2006

Originally Posted by Kai

Canali clearly are not the highest quality off the rack suit, but I don't think they can be beat for the price.

Except by Corneliani, of course.

But I agree with you about going bespoke before paying through the nose for RTW.

The Devil's Hands · Nov 21, 2006

Originally Posted by DocHolliday

I agree with you about going bespoke before paying through the nose for RTW.
+1 Seriously, how is a Kiton worth more than, say, an A&S? I mean, fit is the most important thing you pay for, followed by construction, right?

well-kept · Nov 21, 2006

Originally Posted by gorgekko

Then here's a little more for you. The only suits with less sex appeal than Oxxford are those that the trads salivate over.

Sex appeal isn't in the suit. It's in the man.

Just as most men know that a truly good-looking woman dressed conservatively in tweeds and discreet pearls can be maddeningly attractive compared to a girl in low-cut jeans and high-cut t-shirt revealing tattoos and various bits of metal stuck through her body in an effort to be sexy. Same principle applies to men, I'm pretty sure.

best off-the-rack suits

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