Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

J Simulcik · Oct 10, 2008

Originally Posted by RatherAnOddball

Oh, here's another:

I saw a Seinfeld the other day where Jerry's new suede jacket was destroyed by snow. I've never owned suede anything before, but was hoping to get some suede shoes - is it true that even a modest amount of moisture will make them spotty? If not, where does the idea come from that it will?

I have a suede jacket that's seen some fog/light drizzle/flurries, and it's fine. I don't wear it when anything heavier than that is forecast, however.

Master-Classter · Oct 12, 2008

Quick Question: I was thinking of getting a black silk knit slim tie. The two options on the table are the Land's End one or something like it, ie plain black or I saw one at Club Monaco that's black with two white stripes across it near the bottom... My concern was that I couldn't wear it with a shirt other then white.
Would it still work to wear a black tie with white strip on something like a plain blue shirt? (I was thinking to add a white PS to accent?)

AgentQ · Oct 12, 2008

What goes well with orange slacks??

Master-Classter · Oct 29, 2008

Originally Posted by AgentQ

What goes well with orange slacks??

Look at the WAYW thread
1. October 25, Phat Guido (has also done this well with navy blazer, search earlier)
2. October 26 2008, Guy from Shanghai

Master-Classter · Oct 29, 2008

Can someone please answer me

1. What is the difference/relationship between Glenplaid and Prince of Whales? What are they and how are they similar or different?
2. I haven't been able to find this anwhere... Can anyone tell me their thoughts on the overall quality, styling, etc of Paul Smith suits...? I'm checking one out on ebay but just not sure if I'm paying for a name or if they're even decent suits. Assume I can pick one up for around $350?
3. After a navy blazer, what would you recomend for colors and fabrics for a second and third sports coat?

Thanks!

Despos · Oct 29, 2008

Glen plaid has become a generic term for plaid. The origin of the term from the dictionary says it is short for glenurquhart plaid, from Glen Urquhart, a valley in Inverness-shire, Scotland. Where as a Tartan would represent your family of origin a plaid represents your town or area you are from. Prince of Wales is a specific coloration with in the glen plaid genre. The colors of a Prince of Wales plaid were originally a navy blue with burgundy.

I have no idea of the quality of a Paul Smith suit.

After a navy jacket I would get a lighter colored sport coat. Then you have a dark jacket to wear with lighter trouser and a lighter colored jacket to wear with dark trouser. Could be tan, camel, carmel brown, grey, whatever is a good color for your skin tone and works with your trouser selections.

Despos · Oct 29, 2008

Originally Posted by Sator

Is this to say that most cutters today use either the chest measure system, or a table of proportionate measure to work out the appropriate scye depth from the chest measure? Even 1950s texts discuss how scye depth and overshoulder measure can still be useful to experienced cutters, as a way of providing a picture of the proportions of the customer, even if those direct measurements aren't used to draft the pattern.

Depends, drafting a pattern for an individual or creating a block pattern would require different information. Short measures will give more information and detail of a clients proportion so I guess it can be useful. I have tried to draft using these measures and it helps. A visual of the client is still the best because you need a 3D image to know how a client is shaped. Even short measures do not reveal a prominent shoulder blade or a forward shoulder.

Using a table of proportionate measure would be needed for a RTW block pattern but is only relevant if the measurements fits your demographic. A friend purchased a clothing factory and one of the first things he did was update his proportional chart. He found that the average male in the US today is 5'9" and 190 lbs. The proportions the company had been using were outdated. He resized his patterns and the clothing line sales increased substantially due to the improved fit. His clothing actually became the standard sizing several retailers began to use.

The proportional chart is less needed in custom work because I am making one suit for one individual. Only the clients individual measurements and proportions matter.

Quatsch · Nov 2, 2008

Quick question: My question is about eveningwear of the not so formal variety. I'm trying to put some stuff together to wear out in the evening to nice-ish restaurants and other things when I'm in Orlando visiting my girlfriend, having no need for that kind of stuff in the town I go to school in. I feel like a suit might be a bit much(not to mention its rarely a comfortable temperature to wear a suit in Orlando, or at least when you're coming in from cooler climates), but that on the other hand, that its easy to look like a chump in a shirt and trousers(am I wrong here?). And then again, what kind of odd jackets would you wear out in the evening? I feel like black is a safe bet for this context, but I don't really want to buy a black suit just for that purpose. Advice? Age is early 20s, if it helps.

grimslade · Nov 2, 2008

Originally Posted by Despos

Use short measures to determine strap length, scye depth and overshoulder measures. This is pretty much only practiced in Asia now but does have merit.

Despos · Nov 2, 2008

Originally Posted by grimslade

sycophant

grimslade · Nov 2, 2008

Originally Posted by Despos

sycophant

I'm angling for a discount on my first suit. How am I doing?

otc · Nov 2, 2008

Originally Posted by Master-Classter

Can someone please answer me
2. I haven't been able to find this anwhere... Can anyone tell me their thoughts on the overall quality, styling, etc of Paul Smith suits...? I'm checking one out on ebay but just not sure if I'm paying for a name or if they're even decent suits. Assume I can pick one up for around $350?

I have a paul smith suit that seems pretty nice. It's got a lot of hand work (lots of pick stitching) and is tagged as made in italy. Mine is an 88% Wool/12% mohair which feels different than most suits so I can't comment on the fabrics he uses.

Mine does not have a hidden naked lady anywhere like some of his suits are supposed to (hidden in the cuffs or somethin)

Despos · Nov 2, 2008

Originally Posted by grimslade

I'm angling for a discount on my first suit. How am I doing?

Think of it as getting as close to a Rubinaci as you can get in the U.S., for less money.

There's your discount.

voxsartoria · Nov 2, 2008

Originally Posted by Despos

Think of it as getting as close to a Rubinaci as you can get in the U.S., for less money.

There's your discount.

Why, do you wear Rubinacci while you cut your client's suits?

- B

Despos · Nov 2, 2008

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Why, do you wear Rubinacci while you cut your client's suits?

- B

At one time I considered ordering one for the experience of going through the experience.

I will if you will.

Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

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