Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

[TroubIe]

Uhhh w.o.w. Nowfashion just finished their uploads of the collection - and I am still shocked. Nobody could have ever seen this coming.

Collection as a whole is interesting - but not alot of things I would want to wear as opposed to other Yohji collections where I pretty much want to wear everything.

There are definitely some strong stand alone pieces, you just have to look past the (visually) confusing styling of the looks.

Some of the pieces I liked:

Coat:



Pants:



Knit Turtleneck:



And my absolute favorites from this collection : the snake print Jumpsuits





Under layer Jumpsuit / Pants and Top or whatever, kind of hard to see:





I have to say I am a bit disappointed as I am traveling to Japan this summer and was hoping to pick up some FW14 pieces. The only thing I really like enough to buy are the snake print jumpsuits, but with the limited monthly delivery of 5-7 runway looks I probably won't be able to buy them unless I'm really lucky and they drop in July. I would have much rather preferred to shop FW13 in person, there are just too many pieces here that seem out of place.

Collection was very refreshing, I just wish he hadn't gone so overboard with some of the prints. Imo some of the more voluminous pants are ruined by the print. Some of the last few looks were looking like they were straight out of a Walter Van Beirendonck Collection.

 

[StevenE]

First impressions - as whole looks I liked/was struck by










- this struck me as a very casual-looking and youthful seeming collection - and - I mean this in the best possible way - some of these looks wouldn't have seemed out of place wandering round an Allsaints.

It works for me as a counterpoint to collections like Spring/Summer 11 - with its heavy prints and patterns - but from a very different, classical direction. This represents a punkier, spikier take.



Is it fair to speculate that the heavy use of prints and leathers is likely to make this a particularly expensive collection in-stores?

 

[davidlee388]



Congratulations on being a pathetic keyboard warrior I hope it brings you joy sleep well tonight knowing you are the better man.thankyou davidlee for your help

No problem. I must add Wire.Artist is one of the nicest people I had the pleasure to meet irl. And he's the true, and the original Yohji Ambassador.

 

[davidlee388]

The predictable thing about Yohji Runway nowadays is that it's unpredictable. However one consistent trend is his SS collections have been stronger than the AW ones for quite a few years now, this AW14 being no exception.

 

[rudo]

I loved the show. Some print maybe a bit too much, but many were subtle enough and gorgeous. Also if you don't like prints, that's fine, many of these will be available in black wool gabardine without prints as well like always. The knits and the pullovers are my favorites.

 

[Benesyed]

I really like these

 

[Ivwri]

Really liked the show! The zipper concept and the degree to which he explored it, some of the prints, the pants (or jumpsuits?) with the extra fabric that can be tied in front and the really loose pants and even the extrapolation of the SS14 double layered shorts and pants I think I saw in some of the photos, it all looked pretty crazy and punk in the best way. Yohji reminding the world that he is a genius!

Will need to see video before any solid impressions can be made of course, but the first look is positive to me anyway.

 

[wireartists]



No problem. I must add Wire.Artist is one of the nicest people I had the pleasure to meet irl. And he's the true, and the original Yohji Ambassador.

thank you david , on the other side I'm no warrior and no better man but you are definitely a scumfuck mr H and a massive hypocrite, lets disclose this:

- you got some **** from who know where,
-you register on SF, because is one of the top search results when you google yohji yamamoto
- you start asking questions in order to make the biggest profit of what you got, clothing that you don't give a **** about.
-your pool of potential buyers happen to be in this forum, basically people that know a ****-ton about yy, way more than those who can't even remember how much they paid for the most recent collection pieces becausetheycan'tcontrolthemselvesthere, we, the broke savvy outsiders.

i'm in madrid, come here and I can show you my keyboard

aw14 is one of his best collections in the last 14 year, simple genius

 

[Ivwri]

On a side note, yea it is getting a bit much I think with the amount of people trying to make a quick buck off of the backs of a lot of the good work on here by the main posters on here.

I understand where wire is coming from though and at the very least, if one goes through this thread the info can be figured out without just coming to the las page and posting. Even if you do not see yourself as taking advantage of the forum Hutch, there has been a recent spate of random posters coming on here and soon so, so unfortunately you are just a victim of their own posting patterns.

And yeah, second character witness for wire hehe

 

[dantebykiko]

basically people that know a ****-ton about yy, way more than those who can't even remember how much they paid for the most recent collection pieces becausetheycan'tcontrolthemselvesthere,



aw14 is one of his best collections in the last 14 year, simple genius

this.

 

[myname]

I couldn't relate to S/S'14 at all (sorry for the negativity), but I'm very excited for A/W.

Perhaps it is because I prefer to buy Yohji's colour pieces... but I also noted the knitwear (nobody does warm sweaters as well as Yohji) and the attention to detail (e.g. the zipper ends - which may be the silver items from the Gothic line, meaning they'd have to be purchased separately) that I thought was missing from recent collections. This collection reminds me of the edge Yohji's collections had to them in the past - post bankruptcy I haven't looked at any runway pictures and thought "I'm going to buy this", but after my first view of A/W'14 pictures I already have 4 items I'm hoping to buy.

As rudo noted above, there are usually colour variations on pieces, so some of these cuts may be done in black (without the pattern) as well.

 

[myname]

It works for me as a counterpoint to collections like Spring/Summer 11 - with its heavy prints and patterns - but from a very different, classical direction. This represents a punkier, spikier take.

Is it fair to speculate that the heavy use of prints and leathers is likely to make this a particularly expensive collection in-stores?

Really agree with both of these comments - a little less poetry, a little bit tougher... and I also foresee a hefty price for some of these pieces.

 

[Ivwri]

Posted my impressions on the Yohji FW14 thread but quoting on here as well for thoroughness (pardon me I am currently a bit giddy about this collection, hehe).

Oh crud. I typed up this whole reply and it is all gone now . Guess It is for the best so I don't end up trying to express my thoughts on the collection and doing a bad job of it cos I am so pumped.

In summary: Amazing. Genius. Comic. Zippers! Gothic accessories look nice (silver zipper pulls y'all). Layered pants look great and have some nice continuity with SS14 if my eye serves me correctly.

If anyone can save images from Nowfashion.com showing the back of some of the pieces that would be great. Some of the detail shots imply some pretty crazy things construction-wise.

Okay, let me try and type this up again:

The thing that really strikes me about this collection though is how much fun Yohji seemed to have had making it. Like he has rolled up his sleeves and is really getting stuck into the work and just pushing himself to the limit and further and further out of his comfort zone. The results are excellent so far in my opinion and if he can keep this up, it will be an excellent swan song for a great career.

On a first (well, not really, but you know what I mean) pass, these are my favorite looks -

The layering here is just so good. Like Arnie shaking Carl Weathers' hand in Predator good.

This look actually made me pause the slideshow for a solid minute. The pants are amazing and I hope this iteration of them, with the print, is picked up for the racks.

I have been getting more and more interested in picking up an MA-1 and/or biker style jacket or something similar, and this one, with the pattern and the zippers on the back of the arm and the sides is pretty close to ideal I think (although the "cropped" ones in Dries FW14 look pretty amazing as well). Just the perfect combination of flower power, anarchy and seething teenage menace I need in my life right now .

I don't even know what is going on here, but I love it. Skull prints and all. Would go for different boots personally, but the rest of the outfit is just the perfect combination of non-Western male silhouette and knotted fabric that I have been waiting to see more of. I would probably wear this every day as it also reminds me of the wrappers that men of the Urhobo culture in Nigeria tie when they go for ceremonies (or lounge about in at home while wearing a wife beater).

 

[Benesyed]

If anyone has the link to the nowfashion coverage and could post it that would be awesome.

 

[TroubIe]

Style.com Review: