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whnay.'s good taste thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Jul 30, 2012.

  1. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    lol, not fumbling at all, i have a firm grasp! ;)

    i have tried pics with my arms at my side or in my pocket and what not, but i inevitably look like crap and much fatter than i even am. they never come out good, nor do they represent how i look irl, so i stopped doing it. was not doing myself or anyone any favors imo. sorry. : (
     
  2. tdude

    tdude Well-Known Member

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    :p

    I get the whole flattering pose thing, and I like the natural poses that lots of guys like you (claghorn for example who always looks sharp/casual) strike. Love the suit all the same, and that lapel roll I hear (and saw in pics on Greg's site) looks quite good. Just wanted to see more of it. Again :slayer:

    Stug, pm sent
     
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2013
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  3. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    taht is a nice suit, if you could get rid of rollino at the sleevehead, it would be really nice
     
  4. RDiaz

    RDiaz Well-Known Member

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    I like it, the rollino...

    (in spanish: chorizo)
     
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  5. Fred49

    Fred49 Well-Known Member

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    Hello Gents
    [​IMG]
     
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  6. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    thanks, t.

    its not so much about the pic being flattering, its about me wanting the pic to represent how i look irl as closely as possible. i mean, i have had fits where if i adjusted the color balance more in PB i could create more contrast or less saturation.... and while it might look better here, its not really what i am wearing.

    same thing for my pose, if the picture, for whatever reason, is not reflecting how i think i actually look, i dont like to post it. i try to make my fit pics as honest as possible.

    in any case, the roll is pretty awesome, and i will try, next time i wear this one, or when i wear the birdseye, to capture it for you.

    :fistbump:


    thank you, manton. what means this rollino? the roping?
     
  7. bourbonbasted

    bourbonbasted Well-Known Member

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    Con rollino refers to the sleevehead expression. While the ever-popular spalla camicia is a construction similar to that of a shirt, con rollino creates a rope-like effect (via a narrow and slightly puckered sleevehead), without the actual use of padding or roping (usually). It's just another Neapolitan thang. And, if it makes you feel better, the SC I'm wearing today has the same construction.

    Difference between the two:
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2013
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  8. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    ah, so my guess was correct! thanks for the technical 411, much appreciated. i like the sleeve-head, so im cool with it.

    glad you are too. :)
     
  9. bourbonbasted

    bourbonbasted Well-Known Member

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    Guys like Sciamat take it over-the-top, but when tastefully done (I think yours qualifies) it can look nice.

    For the record I prefer camicia and the SC I'm wearing today is the only one I own con rollino, but I still think it can look nice on the right shoulder build.
     
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  10. gdl203

    gdl203 Well-Known Member

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    There is no rollino in that shoulder. Gennaro would hit me with a talarico umbrella if I spec'd a rollino on his suits.

    A simple "spalla cadente morbida" that needs a few wears to relax.
     
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2013
  11. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    @ bb - well, im glad mine falls in the tasteful category, though i cant imagine greg would stock anything that wasn't tasteful. but, i cant say that i am that particular about my shoulders. im open to various types of shoulders as long as i like the way it looks on me.

    @ gdl - now i am confused, what would you call this shoulder?


    whatever the term is, i think the shoulder line and shoulder look pretty much perfect. thanks, g!
     
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2013
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  12. bourbonbasted

    bourbonbasted Well-Known Member

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    One of my suits from Smashburn is 100%, unquestionably camicia. Yet, every once in a while, a certain stance or movement will make the sleevehead perk up a bit. Maybe what is happening here. An optical illusion of sorts.
     
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2013
  13. gdl203

    gdl203 Well-Known Member

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    You can see here the difference between the two shoulders that he cuts : spalla cadente morbida and spalla manica a camicia

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2013
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  14. TRINI

    TRINI Well-Known Member

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    Don't let :foo: see that first one or else there'll be red lines everywhere.

    :tinfoil:
     
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  15. RDiaz

    RDiaz Well-Known Member

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    gdl, so the seam is not pressed open there? I thought that's what the italians called "rollino", but maybe I'm wrong and it means true roping (spanish terminology is different, what goes inside a true roped shoulder is called boatina)
     
  16. Christopher Essex

    Christopher Essex Well-Known Member

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    Perhaps he thought NMLA meant 'No Man Lurks Alone', which would be accurate, acronym-wise.
     
  17. gdl203

    gdl203 Well-Known Member

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    When working with Formosa to design our suits, he made the distinction between three sleevehead options / shoulder expressions. The photo below would be a good summary of them

    Spalla con rollino (with roped, puckered sleevehead) - will stay like this pretty much forever
    Spalla cadente morbida (traditional soft shoulder) - may look a little fluffy at first but relaxes down quickly, nothing really that supports a roll
    Spalla manica a camicia (lapped seam, shirring) - looks rounder than cadente morbida

    [​IMG]

    This is a good example of a spalla cadente morbida - there's no real perceptible rollino there, just a clean, slightly angular - but not round - shoulder

    [​IMG]


    Gennaro Formosa prefers to use the spalla cadente morbida on suits and the spalla manica a camicia on sport coats, as a rule. He was okay to do our "blazer suits" with patch pockets and manica a camicia. When I asked what he thought of rollino, his eyes lit up and his hand swept through the air "no rollino ! no rollino !". He was OK adding a rollino on the peak lapel tuxedo but we decided against it eventually.
     
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2013
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  18. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Well-Known Member

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    This thread is delivering today...
     
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  19. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    well, it brought you out. :p


    isnt it tho!
     
  20. jrd617

    jrd617 Well-Known Member

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    I was wondering how Italian dude end with up with the last name Formosa?

    [​IMG]


    Then I looked it up. It actually means "curvaceous" in Italian:


    http://en.dicios.com/iten/formosa

    [​IMG]
     

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