What makes a good dress shirt...good?

[Unfashionable]

That last post was down-to-earth (not always the norm around here, I am finding...)

And how many of you just buy OTR and have it tailored vs. MTM. Any advantages to this approach?

 

[phxlawstudent]

Originally Posted by Unfashionable

That last post was down-to-earth (not always the norm around here, I am finding...)

And how many of you just buy OTR and have it tailored vs. MTM. Any advantages to this approach?

Depends on how off the measurements are. If your essentially asking the tailor to recut the entire shirt, it begs the question of was it worth it? When the alterations cost approaches $50, your really pushing it and most certainly could have gotten a MTM for not much more. So, you'll have to ask yourself whether the quality of the OTR is so much better as to justify that cost.

In addition, it is hard for the alterations person to change details such as cuff size, neck size, bicep is doable but pricey and doesn't always come out great. Plus you don't necessarily get to choose what type of collar you get and all those other little details.

 

[Unfashionable]

Originally Posted by phxlawstudent

Depends on how off the measurements are. If your essentially asking the tailor to recut the entire shirt, it begs the question of was it worth it? When the alterations cost approaches $50, your really pushing it and most certainly could have gotten a MTM for not much more. So, you'll have to ask yourself whether the quality of the OTR is so much better as to justify that cost.

In addition, it is hard for the alterations person to change details such as cuff size, neck size, bicep is doable but pricey and doesn't always come out great. Plus you don't necessarily get to choose what type of collar you get and all those other little details.

I agree. I suspect that MTM is probably the best route for me.

 

[shortlefty]

I still don't get how to determine if a dress shirt was made well just by seeing the final product

If I buy JCrew Thomas Mason and a 100 hands Thomas Mason shirt, what would be the obvious tells?

Or maybe, if i purchased a Charles Tyrwitt shirt, why is Kamakura or a bespoke Shirt better? Lets assume we ignore the quality of the fabric used and fit (ignoring fit since some RTW works for some people even if it may not be as sophisticated as a bespoke shirt)

 

[moltoelegante]

I still don't get how to determine if a dress shirt was made well just by seeing the final product

If I buy JCrew Thomas Mason and a 100 hands Thomas Mason shirt, what would be the obvious tells?

Or maybe, if i purchased a Charles Tyrwitt shirt, why is Kamakura or a bespoke Shirt better? Lets assume we ignore the quality of the fabric used and fit (ignoring fit since some RTW works for some people even if it may not be as sophisticated as a bespoke shirt)

Assuming that the fabric and fit are the same, the better-made shirt should have a sewn interlining in the collar, button holes which are cut first then stitched by hand (as opposed to machine sewn then cut), pockets for shirt stays under the collar tips, mother-of-pearl buttons, offset seams in the armpit regions, side seam gussets and overall neat and fine stitching with no loose threads.

 

[shortlefty]

Assuming that the fabric and fit are the same, the better-made shirt should have a sewn interlining in the collar, button holes which are cut first then stitched by hand (as opposed to machine sewn then cut), pockets for shirt stays under the collar tips, mother-of-pearl buttons, offset seams in the armpit regions, side seam gussets and overall neat and fine stitching with no loose threads.

Thanks. Now I need to train my eye spot these.