Waist Alterations on vintage trousers

[AthanasiusKircher]

Posting here with a question about the mechanics of altering a pair of 1940's high rise suit trousers. I am eyeing a 1940's suit for sale with a 32" waist, though I usually wear 33". The seller says there's nothing to let out in the waist, but there is extra fabric in the seat right below.

Could one theoretically create a split in the back of the waistband and then let out some of the seat fabric in order to create a slightly wider waist, or would this not work?

I know a lot of trousers from the 30's and 40's have a "V-split" in the back of the waistband, although on some of the examples currently in my collection this seems like more of a cosmetic feature than a functional one.

Many thanks in advance for any advice that anyone can offer.

 

[gimpwiz]

Oh, that is an interesting question. I would suspect it doesn't quite work this way, but I'm curious to find out, so I'm following the thread. I also have some suspicion that there's more to let out than the seller thinks, unless the seller was told so by a tailor or is themselves reasonably knowledgeable, because not everything is obvious to a casual eye.

Alternatively, fast for two weeks? _ducks_

 

[TimothyF]

Put me down for probably won't work. Nothing definitive without pictures

 

[Despos]

Is this the only issue in regards to the suit fitting you?
it’s possible that the waist wasn’t measured correctly. Could be bigger or smaller.
as Timothy suggested, picture needed to advise you.
Or, Ask if you can return the suit if it can’t be altered

 

[paxonus]

If the only issue with fit is the waist, and you don't plan on wearing the pants without the jacket, there is a solution. The seam at the waist is opened as far down as needed to get a proper fit. A v-shaped patch is then made and stitched into the gap. Since nobody else will see it, the material it is made of won't matter. I have seen this done when only a small increase is needed.

 

[AthanasiusKircher]

If the only issue with fit is the waist, and you don't plan on wearing the pants without the jacket, there is a solution. The seam at the waist is opened as far down as needed to get a proper fit. A v-shaped patch is then made and stitched into the gap. Since nobody else will see it, the material it is made of won't matter. I have seen this done when only a small increase is needed.

I had wondered about this as well. That's good to know. It's quite possible that the waist won't actually need alterations, but if it does, this is what I'll aim to do. Thanks for the advice.

 

[Lagavulin62]

Im not sure how old you are and what your natural gut is. 33 is lean but if you do have a bit of a gut taking off 1 inch is easy peasy. Ask me how I know and I’m 62. 100 situps daily and cut back(not out) on pasta and rice, bread and you will get into those pants and feel better.

 

[breakaway01]

Posting here with a question about the mechanics of altering a pair of 1940's high rise suit trousers. I am eyeing a 1940's suit for sale with a 32" waist, though I usually wear 33". The seller says there's nothing to let out in the waist, but there is extra fabric in the seat right below.

What exactly do you mean by “extra fabric in the seat right below”? If it looks like this photo (see the V of extra fabric in the seat seam) there should be extra fabric in the waistband to let out:

 

[Lagavulin62]

If the only issue with fit is the waist, and you don't plan on wearing the pants without the jacket, there is a solution. The seam at the waist is opened as far down as needed to get a proper fit. A v-shaped patch is then made and stitched into the gap. Since nobody else will see it, the material it is made of won't matter. I have seen this done when only a small increase is needed.

Just never take off the jacket?

But your point is there. Unless a huge patch is needed I’m sure a very similar fabric could be found to use that would hardly be noticed unless one was looking for it. Depending on who this person was that may not be so bad.

 

[AthanasiusKircher]

Im not sure how old you are and what your natural gut is. 33 is lean but if you do have a bit of a gut taking off 1 inch is easy peasy. Ask me how I know and I’m 62. 100 situps daily and cut back(not out) on pasta and rice, bread and you will get into those pants and feel better.

Good to know, and true indeed. I'm 23 and still pretty lean, but I've definitely some excess around the middle that could be done away with... No doubt the result of much beer and pasta.

 

[AthanasiusKircher]

Just never take off the jacket?

But your point is there. Unless a huge patch is needed I’m sure a very similar fabric could be found to use that would hardly be noticed unless one was looking for it. Depending on who this person was that may not be so bad.

This is most likely what I'll do if I decide the trousers are too tight. I don't think I'll ever wear them separately since the suit in question is a pinstripe, but I may see if the tailor can extract some fabric from the extra in the seat, as there's quite a bit there, and graft it onto the waistband. Otherwise, I'll just look for some other fabric in a similar shade. Thanks, all, for the suggestions!

 

[Despos]

There’s more to this. Waistband construction is layered. Cloth, stiffener, usually banroll is used and a layer used to cover the banroll between the inner and outer layer.
good place to get the extra cloth is from the lower lapel facing below the button on the inside of the jacket. It will have the same grain line as the waistband and be wide enough so you can shift the cloth to match the stripe pattern with the existing waistband. Tailor will need to replace the missing cloth. This adds more work and cost but not enough to be a deal breaker. Taking cloth from the outlet in the seat won’t work.

 

[AthanasiusKircher]

There’s more to this. Waistband construction is layered. Cloth, stiffener, usually banroll is used and a layer used to cover the banroll between the inner and outer layer.
good place to get the extra cloth is from the lower lapel facing below the button on the inside of the jacket. It will have the same grain line as the waistband and be wide enough so you can shift the cloth to match the stripe pattern with the existing waistband. Tailor will need to replace the missing cloth. This adds more work and cost but not enough to be a deal breaker. Taking cloth from the outlet in the seat won’t work.

Thanks for pointing this out! That probably wouldn't have occurred to me.