Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

[davidVC]

View attachment 981815 I think it came from David’s v-cleat watchlist.It’s been the ruin of many a po’ boy...and I’d do it again!

You are saving so much money that you are actually making money! I think that's how it works

 

[instigateur]

Freeman Flex CTO for a sunny post holiday Tuesday.

 

[smfdoc]

@smfdoc Could I tap into your knowledge on vintage shoes, please? I'm a bit confused about shoes with 2 width sizes -- Did some makers give widths as forefoot/heel, while other makers wrote them as heel/forefoot?

The reason I ask is because the Alden saddle oxfords previously mentioned are written as 10 A/C for which the forefoot is 10 C (I don't doubt your post), however some Bostonian tassel loafers I bought are marked 10 D/B and were stated by the seller as 10 D. They fit my wide feet pretty well, where 10 B surely would not.

Makers of the day did it both ways. Some listed the heel first and others the forefoot first. The larger of the two sizes are the forefoot. This obviously caused confusion and most makers dropped the heel measurement because it really served no purpose. It is always 2 sizes smaller. Alden, however, still lists both. With that said, if you are searching Ebay, you may find some shoes that are not listed correctly. I am E/EEE. Some sellers will list the shoe as an E, because they only looked at the first letter. Pro tip, check for incorrect listings.

 

[davidVC]

Does anyone have information on Florsheim Royal Imperial tassel loafers model #97167 ? I believe they are shell cordovan, but trying to confirm this.

Vcleat has information on models like 97164 (penny loafer) or 97168 (Venetian loafer)... so I suppose that 97167 as their tassel loafers makes perfect sense.

These popped up on auction in Japan and I'm sorely tempted. NOS in a very comfortable size for me -- but I just bought a pair of Bostonian tassel loafers the other week, so struggling to justify another pair of tassel loafers when I'm still ogling saddle oxfords and brown leather chukkas. Too many shoes, too little money and closet space.

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The 97167 is not shell cordovan. I am 100% on that

 

[Vinilo1969]

It would be an extremely custom shoe to have the heel width greater than the ball width, so I just always assume the larger of the two is the ball.

Exactly!

 

[Thomas Crown]

Broke out the early 80’s AE Globetrotters today,a half canvas lined,vibram soled thrift store find

 

[wasmisterfu]

The 97167 is not shell cordovan. I am 100% on that

I can confirm this because I own that model. It's CG, though, at least in my example, it's a very well executed CG (very fine creasing, more waxy than plastic - nothing like your typical CG wonder). Not that I would advocate CG (it's only worth it if your getting the pair nice and cheap) but Florsheim did CG surprisingly well (80's / early 90's). Much better than AE's "Polished Cobbler" stuff of the same vintage. That said, as NOS CG, it needs to be well south of a 100 bucks or it's not worth it (IMHO). Also, with all things CG, your mileage may vary.

 

[madhat]

I can confirm this because I own that model. It's CG, though, at least in my example, it's a very well executed CG (very fine creasing, more waxy than plastic - nothing like your typical CG wonder). Not that I would advocate CG (it's only worth it if your getting the pair nice and cheap) but Florsheim did CG surprisingly well (80's / early 90's). Much better than AE's "Polished Cobbler" stuff of the same vintage. That said, as NOS CG, it needs to be well south of a 100 bucks or it's not worth it (IMHO). Also, with all things CG, your mileage may vary.

Plus I don't think Florsheim ever did shell with those heels. And, that first pic just doesn't look like shell to me.

 

[well-kept]

Plus I don't think Florsheim ever did shell with those heels. And, that first pic just doesn't look like shell to me.

Florsheim did use that exact heel on some shells. I have a pair of shell Yumas with the same heels, same sole stamping, etc. Which is not to say that the tassels are shell. Just to clarify that the heel is not the decisive factor.

Also, the model number on my Yumas - 5S 33830 - indicates that they were a special make up. Maybe Florsheim finished them with the only heel toplifts which were available at that moment.

 

[OmBom]

Makers of the day did it both ways. Some listed the heel first and others the forefoot first. The larger of the two sizes are the forefoot. This obviously caused confusion and most makers dropped the heel measurement because it really served no purpose. It is always 2 sizes smaller. Alden, however, still lists both. With that said, if you are searching Ebay, you may find some shoes that are not listed correctly. I am E/EEE. Some sellers will list the shoe as an E, because they only looked at the first letter. Pro tip, check for incorrect listings.

Agree with all this, except sometime they drop the heel only one size. For example, my Hanover LB Sheppard saddles are 10.5 C with a B heel.
The old-time companies, such as Russell Moccasin, will list sizes as "10.5 B, ball to C" for the same, adding to the confusion.

 

[madhat]

Florsheim did use that exact heel on some shells. I have a pair of shell Yumas with the same heels, same sole stamping, etc. Which is not to say that the tassels are shell. Just to clarify that the heel is not the decisive factor.

Also, the model number on my Yumas - 5S 33830 - indicates that they were a special make up. Maybe Florsheim finished them with the only heel toplifts which were available at that moment.

Or customer did an upcharge to shell without changing the sole? (I did that on an AE shell MTO back in January) Either way, good info.

 

[CWOyaji]

Further adventures in minor american shoe brands...Weyenberg edition. After my recent forays in Hanover, Mason and of course Nettleton.

Ethrifted NOS pair just arrived. No info on the vintage of these, but the logo typeface says '70's to me. Good leather uppers, sole and fit, but the wacky plastic heel may not be long for these shoes.

 

[Oshare]

Makers of the day did it both ways. Some listed the heel first and others the forefoot first. The larger of the two sizes are the forefoot. This obviously caused confusion and most makers dropped the heel measurement because it really served no purpose.

Thanks everyone. Very interesting and helpful!

The 97167 is not shell cordovan. I am 100% on that

I can confirm this because I own that model. It's CG, though, at least in my example, it's a very well executed CG

Well, that’s too bad. I thought I had found something really nice but glad I checked here before clicking the BIN option. The price is about 3x too high for corrected grain, so I will pass on it.

Now there’s a different pair of 994’s in my size, but it’s about double what I’d like to spend...... *sigh*

 

[smfdoc]

Thanks everyone. Very interesting and helpful!





Well, that’s too bad. I thought I had found something really nice but glad I checked here before clicking the BIN option. The price is about 3x too high for corrected grain, so I will pass on it.

Now there’s a different pair of 994’s in my size, but it’s about double what I’d like to spend...... *sigh*

Well, contact the seller and offer him what you would like to spend. You don't know until you ask.

 

[suitforcourt]

Went thrifting in my hometown. Walked away with 8 pairs for consignment. This pair of Dacks spectator in 10.5D are the most interesting.