• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • LuxeSwap Auctions will be ending soon!

    LuxeSwap is the original consignor for Styleforum, and has weekly auctions that show the diversity of our community, with hundreds lof starting at $0.99 every week, ending starting at 5:30 Eastern Time. Please take the time to check them out here. You may find something that fits your wardrobe exactly

    Good luck!.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Mutombo

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2010
Messages
205
Reaction score
97

While it's true that their GYW feels very sturdy, knowing it's cemented construction just makes it inferior to me. I like the idea of the upper being stitched to the sole.


I'm confused. Are you saying that GYW construction = cemented construction?

GYW is still a fully stitched construction. The difference between GYW and SD is that in GYW, the welt is stitched to the upper, and the outsole is stitched to the welt. SD simply bypasses the welt and stitches straight through the upper to the outsole.
 

Whirling

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2015
Messages
598
Reaction score
348

I'm confused. Are you saying that GYW construction = cemented construction?

GYW is still a fully stitched construction. The difference between GYW and SD is that in GYW, the welt is stitched to the upper, and the outsole is stitched to the welt. SD simply bypasses the welt and stitches straight through the upper to the outsole.


In a hand-welted shoe, the welt is stitched to the upper, the insole, and the outsole (+/- midsole). In nearly all GYW footwear, the welt is not stitched to the insole, but to a piece of fabric cemented to the bottom of the insole. If this cement fails or the fabric decays, the integrity of the footwear is severelt compromised.

There are endless debates here about how often the gemming fails. Nobody, however, denies that it can fail. It is more likely to do so in footwear that has to endure tough conditions or is very old. There are also debates about how difficult it is to repair failed gemming. Ideally, it would be repaired by somebody with access to the original last.


Edit: Corrected "midsole" to "insole" in one spot.
 
Last edited:

Mutombo

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2010
Messages
205
Reaction score
97

In a hand-welted shoe, the welt is stitched to the upper, the insole, and the outsole (+/- midsole). In nearly all GYW footwear, the welt is not stitched to the insole, but to a piece of fabric cemented to the bottom of the midsole. If this cement fails or the fabric decays, the integrity of the footwear is severelt compromised.

There are endless debates here about how often the gemming fails. Nobody, however, denies that it can fail. It is more likely to do so in footwear that has to endure tough conditions or is very old. There are also debates about how difficult it is to repair failed gemming. Ideally, it would be repaired by somebody with access to the original last.


Thanks for the clarification. I had forgotten about the gemming being cemented to the midsole. I just haven't seen GYW referred to as cemented construction.
 

Engineer05

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 23, 2014
Messages
114
Reaction score
194
A kind gentleman proxy'd these for me from this year's sample sale. Though, from the angle and fuzzy picture I had originally thought these were cap toe service boots.Turns out these are Country Derby boots, but the color is incredible. My first pair of Viberg's.

Tried them on and the 2040 last these are on seems kind of odd? Fairly tight on my midfoot (which I assume will stretch with wear), though i have tons of toe room. Would a 2030 fare better in this instance? I know they're both E widths, but from what I've read the fit on a 2030 is vastly different.


Those look like Tan Latigo Derby Boots. The 2040 last is reminiscent of a "Munson last," which is meant to be "anatomically correct." I will say that my 2040 waxed flesh derby boots are some of my most comfortable footwear, and they have a ton of miles on them. Hope you enjoy them!!
 

meso

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2010
Messages
3,889
Reaction score
932
Personally I find the 2040 a compromise between the ultra pronounced toe of the 310 and the low profile/volume of the 2030. It's more like a Redwing Beckman round-toe boot. As such, it looks really solid with a wider range of cuts of jeans and pants. (I tend to wear only straight leg jeans with my 310 boots because they look so out of proportion with a tapered leg jean)
 

Akeem

Distinguished Member
Joined
Oct 2, 2007
Messages
2,173
Reaction score
1,419

In a hand-welted shoe, the welt is stitched to the upper, the insole, and the outsole (+/- midsole). In nearly all GYW footwear, the welt is not stitched to the insole, but to a piece of fabric cemented to the bottom of the midsole. If this cement fails or the fabric decays, the integrity of the footwear is severelt compromised.

There are endless debates here about how often the gemming fails. Nobody, however, denies that it can fail. It is more likely to do so in footwear that has to endure tough conditions or is very old. There are also debates about how difficult it is to repair failed gemming. Ideally, it would be repaired by somebody with access to the original last.


arent all outsoles essentially cemented on? after some wear, the stitching is worn away and the cement holds the outsole in place.
 

Akeem

Distinguished Member
Joined
Oct 2, 2007
Messages
2,173
Reaction score
1,419
i prefer the 2045 to 2040 as i have fat teet. the 2040 just felt too narrow in the waist. i am enjoying my 110s a lot as well
 

docalden2013

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 30, 2013
Messages
692
Reaction score
283
Has anyone experienced shipping delays from Viberg.com this week? I ordered service boots on Monday, and I can see a banner on the website saying that orders from this past week were to go out on 6/7. However, I haven't gotten a response from the Viberg folks via e-mail or phone. (This, in my experience, is uncharacteristic of their usually responsive staff). I wouldn't think the sample sale would have slowed down their workflow this much, so is there another reason for the stoppage (e.g., Alden closes shop for like a week in the summertime)?
 

grizzlygiant

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2015
Messages
648
Reaction score
873
Has anyone experienced shipping delays from Viberg.com this week? I ordered service boots on Monday, and I can see a banner on the website saying that orders from this past week were to go out on 6/7. However, I haven't gotten a response from the Viberg folks via e-mail or phone. (This, in my experience, is uncharacteristic of their usually responsive staff). I wouldn't think the sample sale would have slowed down their workflow this much, so is there another reason for the stoppage (e.g., Alden closes shop for like a week in the summertime)?
They got back from NY on Monday night. I'm sure they had a lot to get to on Tuesday. It's only a few people in the company so give them time and have some patience as it was certainly a busy week for them.
 

limonade

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2014
Messages
136
Reaction score
59
Yea, and Drew wasn't traveling back until Wednesday...he's usually their main e-mail guy I think. So I'm guessing he's going to have a long Thursday....
 

nemononame

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2015
Messages
86
Reaction score
23
In a hand-welted shoe, the welt is stitched to the upper, the insole, and the outsole (+/- midsole). In nearly all GYW footwear, the welt is not stitched to the insole, but to a piece of fabric cemented to the bottom of the midsole. If this cement fails or the fabric decays, the integrity of the footwear is severelt compromised.

There are endless debates here about how often the gemming fails. Nobody, however, denies that it can fail. It is more likely to do so in footwear that has to endure tough conditions or is very old. There are also debates about how difficult it is to repair failed gemming. Ideally, it would be repaired by somebody with access to the original last.

I dont want to start a GYW debate here, but do wonder if anyone knows exactly how Viberg does their GYW -- there was a photo on their instagram showing a channeling machine that cuts a groove into the insole during the stitching process that functions similarly to a canvas rib (i.e. gemming) that is typically glued on on GYW shoes. Does Viberg GYW use this channeling, or the more conventional glued on rib?

Also, I"m curious about how the comfort of Viberg GYW shoes/boots compare to their stitch down offerings. I have a pair of stich down Half-Japanese, and even after 90 wears or so and several hundred of miles of walking the soles are still nearly as hard, stiff, and un-conformed to my foot as they were when new. I wonder how their GYW shoes, which presumably use a cork layer, perform in this regard. My other GYW shoes (e.g. my JM Westons, which are themselves know to be rather stiff and unforgiving) were not only more comfortable out of the box, their soles have (very slowly) conformed to the shape of my foot.

This is in contrast to, say, my JM Weston GYW shoes which are
 

Akeem

Distinguished Member
Joined
Oct 2, 2007
Messages
2,173
Reaction score
1,419

I dont want to start a GYW debate here, but do wonder if anyone knows exactly how Viberg does their GYW -- there was a photo on their instagram showing a channeling machine that cuts a groove into the insole during the stitching process that functions similarly to a canvas rib (i.e. gemming) that is typically glued on on GYW shoes.  Does Viberg GYW use this channeling, or the more conventional glued on rib?

Also, I"m curious about how the comfort of Viberg GYW shoes/boots compare to their stitch down offerings.  I have a pair of stich down Half-Japanese, and even after 90 wears or so and several hundred of miles of walking the soles are still nearly as hard, stiff, and un-conformed to my foot as they were when new. I wonder how their GYW shoes, which presumably use a cork layer, perform in this regard.   My other GYW shoes (e.g. my JM Westons, which are themselves know to be rather stiff and unforgiving) were not only more comfortable out of the box, their soles have (very slowly) conformed to the shape of my foot.

   This is in contrast to, say, my JM Weston GYW shoes which are


pretty sure viberg uses standard gemming. they mentioned they use the same construction as the English makers.

as for comfort, I've not seen a difference in comfort between the SD or GYW, but more so with the sole type. I find viberg to be generally hard wearing and needing hiker socks to add some comfort. I don't think they use cork under the footbed for filler. my aldens are more comfortable in comparison.
 

Featured Sponsor

Do You Have a Signature Fragrance?

  • Yes, I have a signature fragrance I wear every day

  • Yes, I have a signature fragrance but I don't wear it daily

  • No, I have several fragrances and rotate through them

  • I don't wear fragrance


Results are only viewable after voting.

Forum statistics

Threads
508,896
Messages
10,605,931
Members
224,774
Latest member
derinmichel
Top