lifeinabox
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knowing is half the battle
Yo Joe!
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knowing is half the battle
While it's true that their GYW feels very sturdy, knowing it's cemented construction just makes it inferior to me. I like the idea of the upper being stitched to the sole.
I'm confused. Are you saying that GYW construction = cemented construction?
GYW is still a fully stitched construction. The difference between GYW and SD is that in GYW, the welt is stitched to the upper, and the outsole is stitched to the welt. SD simply bypasses the welt and stitches straight through the upper to the outsole.
In a hand-welted shoe, the welt is stitched to the upper, the insole, and the outsole (+/- midsole). In nearly all GYW footwear, the welt is not stitched to the insole, but to a piece of fabric cemented to the bottom of the midsole. If this cement fails or the fabric decays, the integrity of the footwear is severelt compromised.
There are endless debates here about how often the gemming fails. Nobody, however, denies that it can fail. It is more likely to do so in footwear that has to endure tough conditions or is very old. There are also debates about how difficult it is to repair failed gemming. Ideally, it would be repaired by somebody with access to the original last.
A kind gentleman proxy'd these for me from this year's sample sale. Though, from the angle and fuzzy picture I had originally thought these were cap toe service boots.Turns out these are Country Derby boots, but the color is incredible. My first pair of Viberg's.
Tried them on and the 2040 last these are on seems kind of odd? Fairly tight on my midfoot (which I assume will stretch with wear), though i have tons of toe room. Would a 2030 fare better in this instance? I know they're both E widths, but from what I've read the fit on a 2030 is vastly different.
In a hand-welted shoe, the welt is stitched to the upper, the insole, and the outsole (+/- midsole). In nearly all GYW footwear, the welt is not stitched to the insole, but to a piece of fabric cemented to the bottom of the midsole. If this cement fails or the fabric decays, the integrity of the footwear is severelt compromised.
There are endless debates here about how often the gemming fails. Nobody, however, denies that it can fail. It is more likely to do so in footwear that has to endure tough conditions or is very old. There are also debates about how difficult it is to repair failed gemming. Ideally, it would be repaired by somebody with access to the original last.
They got back from NY on Monday night. I'm sure they had a lot to get to on Tuesday. It's only a few people in the company so give them time and have some patience as it was certainly a busy week for them.Has anyone experienced shipping delays from Viberg.com this week? I ordered service boots on Monday, and I can see a banner on the website saying that orders from this past week were to go out on 6/7. However, I haven't gotten a response from the Viberg folks via e-mail or phone. (This, in my experience, is uncharacteristic of their usually responsive staff). I wouldn't think the sample sale would have slowed down their workflow this much, so is there another reason for the stoppage (e.g., Alden closes shop for like a week in the summertime)?
They got back from NY on Monday night. I'm sure they had a lot to get to on Tuesday. It's only a few people in the company so give them time and have some patience as it was certainly a busy week for them.
In a hand-welted shoe, the welt is stitched to the upper, the insole, and the outsole (+/- midsole). In nearly all GYW footwear, the welt is not stitched to the insole, but to a piece of fabric cemented to the bottom of the midsole. If this cement fails or the fabric decays, the integrity of the footwear is severelt compromised.
There are endless debates here about how often the gemming fails. Nobody, however, denies that it can fail. It is more likely to do so in footwear that has to endure tough conditions or is very old. There are also debates about how difficult it is to repair failed gemming. Ideally, it would be repaired by somebody with access to the original last.
I dont want to start a GYW debate here, but do wonder if anyone knows exactly how Viberg does their GYW -- there was a photo on their instagram showing a channeling machine that cuts a groove into the insole during the stitching process that functions similarly to a canvas rib (i.e. gemming) that is typically glued on on GYW shoes. Does Viberg GYW use this channeling, or the more conventional glued on rib?
Also, I"m curious about how the comfort of Viberg GYW shoes/boots compare to their stitch down offerings. I have a pair of stich down Half-Japanese, and even after 90 wears or so and several hundred of miles of walking the soles are still nearly as hard, stiff, and un-conformed to my foot as they were when new. I wonder how their GYW shoes, which presumably use a cork layer, perform in this regard. My other GYW shoes (e.g. my JM Westons, which are themselves know to be rather stiff and unforgiving) were not only more comfortable out of the box, their soles have (very slowly) conformed to the shape of my foot.
This is in contrast to, say, my JM Weston GYW shoes which are