Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[etostano]

Thanks Alan. Appreciate the input. Very useful. Any willingness to share the price per meter? I find that rather surprising, especially if you're comparing to Crispaire. I've not inquired, but I've always found Harrison's to be relatively reasonable price wise, save for the silk blend types, which tend to run on the pricier side of thing.

Probably depends a lot on region - E.g. Harrisons US importer is notorious for their huge markup. Ordering through my tailor in NY, H&S is definitely more reasonable in general, though I don't have anything from the particular books being compared now.

 

[Alan Bee]

Thanks Alan. Appreciate the input. Very useful. Any willingness to share the price per meter? I find that rather surprising, especially if you're comparing to Crispaire. I've not inquired, but I've always found Harrison's to be relatively reasonable price wise, save for the silk blend types, which tend to run on the pricier side of thing.

Hi Eric,

You'll have to spring 180 GBP per meter for Springram whereas Smith's Finmeresco is priced at 129 GBP per meter. I procured H&S Crispaire from the H&S distributor in Napoli for 100 Euros per meter. I have to say on closer inspection, the Springram has far deeper motling than either Finmeresco or Crispaire (if thats what you prefer). It is also visibly more porous, in fact very porous. So it appears despite its 12/13oz indicated weight, it might wear cool.

However, its is quite a bit rougher to the touch and I'm now leaning more toward comfort following a failed experiment with H&S 10oz 30% Mohair/70% Wool blend suiting. The damn thing wears like sandpaper.

Alan Bee

 

[Alan Bee]

Todays S/C feature: Hacking coat made from vintage VBC tweed in a houndstooth pattern. Cloth was sourced for "mystery cloth dealer in Napoli". I'd reckon cloth is about 13/14oz and very tweedy. It has a cream base with blue/olive houndstooth patterns. Cloth generally holds its shape and time will tell how well it holds up.

I had the coat cut as a "contemporarized" hacking coat. Fit is very lean and close to the body with inspiration drawn from a tradition Huntsman Saville Row coat (sans the signature one button closure). Enjoy the clip ....

Alan Bee

 

[bamboo]

Spring Ram starts at 12 oz. Up to 17 oz., I think.

Perfect for a January in Maine.

Grab the 8/9's from the Minnis Fresco II book while you can--Fresco a person can actually wear in warm weather.

How about Fresco lite from Fresco III book? I have not made from either, but judging from cut length cloth, Fresco Lite looks quite good.

 

[bdavro23]

How about Fresco lite from Fresco III book? I have not made from either, but judging from cut length cloth, Fresco Lite looks quite good.

I have a pair of trousers in Fresco Lite from the Fresco III book. While I like them, they are very flat in color/ texture. If you are looking for mottling or like the texture of traditional Fresco, you will be disappointed.

 

[bdavro23]

Hi Eric,

You'll have to spring 180 GBP per meter for Springram whereas Smith's Finmeresco is priced at 129 GBP per meter. I procured H&S Crispaire from the H&S distributor in Napoli for 100 Euros per meter. I have to say on closer inspection, the Springram has far deeper motling than either Finmeresco or Crispaire (if thats what you prefer). It is also visibly more porous, in fact very porous. So it appears despite its 12/13oz indicated weight, it might wear cool.

However, its is quite a bit rougher to the touch and I'm now leaning more toward comfort following a failed experiment with H&S 10oz 30% Mohair/70% Wool blend suiting. The damn thing wears like sandpaper.

Alan Bee

Alan,

I have been critical of you and your videos in the past. The above post is helpful and perhaps the most on topic information you have contributed to this thread. Thank you. Please post more of this type of content and far, far fewer videos ("far, far" in this context means none preferably)

 

[bamboo]

I have a pair of trousers in Fresco Lite from the Fresco III book. While I like them, they are very flat in color/ texture. If you are looking for mottling or like the texture of traditional Fresco, you will be disappointed.

I can imagine. When I looked at the bunch it looked smoother and lighter version of Fresco, but when I saw the cut length I had to confirm that it was indeed from Fresco book not from other worsted book.

 

[ericgereghty]

Hi Eric,

You'll have to spring 180 GBP per meter for Springram whereas Smith's Finmeresco is priced at 129 GBP per meter. I procured H&S Crispaire from the H&S distributor in Napoli for 100 Euros per meter. I have to say on closer inspection, the Springram has far deeper motling than either Finmeresco or Crispaire (if thats what you prefer). It is also visibly more porous, in fact very porous. So it appears despite its 12/13oz indicated weight, it might wear cool.

However, its is quite a bit rougher to the touch and I'm now leaning more toward comfort following a failed experiment with H&S 10oz 30% Mohair/70% Wool blend suiting. The damn thing wears like sandpaper.

Alan Bee

Yowzers! You're based in the UAE, correct? Have to assume there's an intense markup, as that figure would blow any Harrison's fabric I've been quoted out of the water.
Not a fan of mohair? I think, generally speaking, the 70/30 wool/mohair blend might be my favorite fabric out there.

 

[etostano]

Not a fan of mohair? I think, generally speaking, the 70/30 wool/mohair blend might be my favorite fabric out there.

The fact that the 10oz 70/30 and 9.5oz 75/25 from H&S are so different from each other is astonishing.

 

[Alan Bee]

Yowzers! You're based in the UAE, correct? Have to assume there's an intense markup, as that figure would blow any Harrison's fabric I've been quoted out of the water.
Not a fan of mohair? I think, generally speaking, the 70/30 wool/mohair blend might be my favorite fabric out there.

So Eric, let me turn this around and ask how much you've paid in the recent past for Harrisons fabrics? Any would do just for comps.

Alan

 

[Alan Bee]

The fact that the 10oz 70/30 and 9.5oz 75/25 from H&S are so different from each other is astonishing.

Etostano, Seriously, the 10oz H&S 70/30 wears like a wire gauze. Or maybe I just have sensitive skin. The things holds a trouser crease like a butchers knife though.

Alan

 

[marcodalondra]

I was also surprised about the Harrison prices I have seen and been quoted in private being paid outside the UK and Italy. However the prices from my tailor (Italian) or even the ones from any vendor in the UK are massively cheaper.

 

[Knox]

How about Fresco lite from Fresco III book? I have not made from either, but judging from cut length cloth, Fresco Lite looks quite good.

The lightest cloth in the Fresco III book is 9 oz. I had been hoping for an 8 oz.

The 8/9's in the Fresco II book are terrific.

https://shop.hfwltd.com/collection/23

 

[lordsuperb]

Todays S/C feature: Hacking coat made from vintage VBC tweed in a houndstooth pattern. Cloth was sourced for "mystery cloth dealer in Napoli". I'd reckon cloth is about 13/14oz and very tweedy. It has a cream base with blue/olive houndstooth patterns. Cloth generally holds its shape and time will tell how well it holds up.

I had the coat cut as a "contemporarized" hacking coat. Fit is very lean and close to the body with inspiration drawn from a tradition Huntsman Saville Row coat (sans the signature one button closure). Enjoy the clip ....

Alan Bee

Nice jacket, but never been a fan of Italian ticket pockets.

 

[Simon A]

Hi Eric,

You'll have to spring 180 GBP per meter for Springram whereas Smith's Finmeresco is priced at 129 GBP per meter. I procured H&S Crispaire from the H&S distributor in Napoli for 100 Euros per meter. I have to say on closer inspection, the Springram has far deeper motling than either Finmeresco or Crispaire (if thats what you prefer). It is also visibly more porous, in fact very porous. So it appears despite its 12/13oz indicated weight, it might wear cool.

However, its is quite a bit rougher to the touch and I'm now leaning more toward comfort following a failed experiment with H&S 10oz 30% Mohair/70% Wool blend suiting. The damn thing wears like sandpaper.

Alan Bee

Spring Ram is made from Cheviot fleeces from northern England and the Scottish Borders. Cheviot are a strongwool breed producing high fibre diameter fleeces (27-33 micron) with a long staple. Fabrics made from such fleeces tend to be springy, hold a good crease, and resist tearing, abrasion or puncturing, but they aren't very soft. It is fibres of over 30 micron that create the sensation of prickle on human skin. It's not common to see a 100% Cheviot worsted. Most worsteds will feature Merino fleece as a large proportion of the blend, which depending on what is selected and how fibres are processed, may result in a softer handle. Developing a fabric that holds its shape and a crease well, allows air movement through the weave, and is still soft in the hand is quite an art.