Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[lordsuperb]

So you're looking for a Louisiana spring-summer-fall odd jacket? A heavy linen might do the trick. Chris loves the LL linen options. For what it's worth, I really like them also but only in solid. A share the bias against patterned linen for men.

What's wrong with patterned linen?

 

[venividivicibj]

Edit

 

[Concordia]

For mock leno, I actually prefer the ones in the Fresco 3 bunch. They feel more bouncy and crease resistant than the Finmeresco mock lenos but there are less colour options.

Can't find it on the website. Sold out for summer?

 

[heldentenor]

@lordsuperb : that is a damn fine jacket.

 

[Pliny]

What's wrong with patterned linen?

It's just a thing.. like socks-with-sandals level wrong. + IIRC Manton does not like it.

 

[kolecho]

Can't find it on the website. Sold out for summer?

It's there.

https://shop.hfwltd.com/collection/55

 

[Alan Bee]

View attachment 804484

Lord Superb, Impeccable tailoring no doubt. I would go for a bit more length in the body and certainly, the sleeves need to be let out a bit.

As I look at the pic again and again, something keeps hinting at my eyes. The top part of the coat looks too "round". The swelled chest and soft (almost rounded shoulders) make the top part of you look like a "ball'. For a smaller/slimmer guy, this cut may work but you're a "chesty" guy (like me) and I'm not sure this cut is flattering you to the fullest.

Alan Bee

 

[aristoi bcn]

Can't find it on the website. Sold out for summer?

No. I don't know why but sometimes they dissapear from the website. Mock Lino navy is the 510244. Blue is 510243 and black 510245.

I've a jacket length of the navy to be made soon and it's the perfect blazer hopsack cloth. Not very different from the one that VBC makes.

 

[aristoi bcn]

View attachment 804484

Lord, that's superb. It's Formosa bespoke?

Love the roundness but I'd go with a longer sleeves and jacket.

 

[R.O. Thornhill]

Two books that I have had great overcoats from
- The Harrisons wool/camel blend - there's a great plain navy in there
- The Loro Piana wool/cashmere blend - Chittleborough & Morgan made me an extraordinary grey overcoat from this book, and I also saw a great navy in there. Expensive but worth it

R-O-T

Here's a picture of the grey Loro Piana coat (and some bonus buttonhole Appreciation). The navy is less mottled but has the same richness

 

[Coxsackie]

What's wrong with patterned linen?

It's just a thing.. like socks-with-sandals level wrong. + IIRC Manton does not like it.

Yeah? Well, **** all that, and in particular, **** Manton.

 

[jrd617]

That gunclub jacket looks too short

 

[Newcomer]

So you're looking for a Louisiana spring-summer-fall odd jacket? A heavy linen might do the trick. Chris loves the LL linen options. For what it's worth, I really like them also but only in solid. A share the bias against patterned linen for men.

And if you are looking for patterned jacketing, how about waiting for the new Loro Piana spring/summer swatches when they become available?

As an initial matter, I am not looking for patterned jacketing at this time. I have actually sold off all of my blue jackets (lost weight), so I am really looking for something solid.

As for the LL linen (LLL?) - that is an interesting suggestion and one that I had not considered. I had my mind on something perhaps a bit more formal, to be honest - perhaps a hopsack - but I have heard that the LLL is incredibly hardy and is not as "linen-y." I have had an urge to get something in a heavy linen though, I find that it wears very elegantly.

 

[Andy57]

As for the LL linen (LLL?) - that is an interesting suggestion and one that I had not considered. I had my mind on something perhaps a bit more formal, to be honest - perhaps a hopsack - but I have heard that the LLL is incredibly hardy and is not as "linen-y."

Both of those statements are true.

 

[lordsuperb]

Lord Superb, Impeccable tailoring no doubt. I would go for a bit more length in the body and certainly, the sleeves need to be let out a bit.

As I look at the pic again and again, something keeps hinting at my eyes. The top part of the coat looks too "round". The swelled chest and soft (almost rounded shoulders) make the top part of you look like a "ball'. For a smaller/slimmer guy, this cut may work but you're a "chesty" guy (like me) and I'm not sure this cut is flattering you to the fullest.

Alan Bee

Lord, that's superb. It's Formosa bespoke?

Love the roundness but I'd go with a longer sleeves and jacket.

That gunclub jacket looks too short

I'm well aware of the issues. The jacket is back in Naples for some tweaks. I wanted the shoulders extended but we came to the conclusion that I may have to travel back to NYC if something went wrong. I don't plan on traveling back to NYC any time soon so the shoulders will stay.

Alan I believe the roundness can be fixed by extending the shoulder and taking in the waist. I'll address the shoulder issue on the next jacket. No plans on adjusting the waist.

As an initial matter, I am not looking for patterned jacketing at this time. I have actually sold off all of my blue jackets (lost weight), so I am really looking for something solid.

As for the LL linen (LLL?) - that is an interesting suggestion and one that I had not considered. I had my mind on something perhaps a bit more formal, to be honest - perhaps a hopsack - but I have heard that the LLL is incredibly hardy and is not as "linen-y." I have had an urge to get something in a heavy linen though, I find that it wears very elegantly.

I hate to say this but heavy linen wears hot. I'd go with wool. Something like a LL piuma, it feels cool against the skin and is quite refreshing.