Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[ericgereghty]

Its cream. The picture of me wearing it is pretty true to real life (although for some reasons the mid-gray pants show much darker than the actually are).

Interesting. Cream was my first thought, but it looks to have a much more beige cast in the close up. Thanks for the info

 

[fllick]

@Despos how do you find the cape horn classics for a suit then? is the 1% cashmere affecting how it holds a crease or durability? Thanks!

 

[Iyor]

Can't comment on durability, but I recently traveled with a suit made up in Cape Horn and it held a good crease and wasn't too wrinkled.

 

[Pliny]

Quote:
brilliant thanks. apropos of nothing, I'd love someone to do a jacketing book in a 'conservative rustic': subtle earthy solids, shoulder weight, with a focus on texture

 

[Concordia]



That's not a bad looking cloth, but not worth the brain damage trying to find it. Gun clubs are fairly common and seemingly infinite in variety. You are likely to find a better one with time.

Quite true. Start with the Glorious Twelfth book for a few nice checks that are very similar to this one.

 

[WillingToLearn]

Thanks, this looks to be the closest, that blue feels a bit bright though. Very close. no rush, i'll wait

 

[Murlsquirl]

I like that a lot. I imagine the blue wouldn't appear nearly as bright IRL when it's made up...but that's just a guess.

 

[Despos]

Phoenix is 9-10 ounces in wool and Lamlana is 10-11 ounces in lambswool/angora, so I think of them as roughly for the same season. Here are pics of my lamlana jacket as well as an up close shot of the fabric so that you can see the texture (maybe the waffling that Mr. Six was talking about). The color in the picture of the full jacket is more true to real life.

Have had a jacket in this color tone in my wardrobe since the 70's. I'm ready to add another.

Have settled on wearing this with mid brown or a rich caramel brown trouser. Try it with a pink shirt.
Have also settled on making them with triple patch pockets. Yours is too fancy for me

Never made up lamlana cloth. It's very very soft cloth and book has a lot of pastel shades, IIRC.

 

[Despos]

@Despos how do you find the cape horn classics for a suit then? is the 1% cashmere affecting how it holds a crease or durability? Thanks!

Good sturdy cloth. The small touch of cashmere is blended into the mix before the fibers are spun into yarns. It as added to develop the hand of the cloth but doesn't effect the wearability much, if at all.

 

[Despos]

Yep, I'm putting in an order today. It's pretty much the navy version of the green jacket I just got and that's fine with me...love that cloth.

Sending it to me to make up along with Patrick's?

What you ordered isn't as tightly woven as the green. A bit softer to the hand. The mottled mix of color really makes a visually interesting cloth.

 

[Despos]

I think it looks particularly good in light colors. The colors have a lot more life than the phoenix book (although I've always thought the phoenix book was pretty uninspiring).

This point I don't see as a negative. Phoenix book is very wearable when you want something basic that you won't have to make an effort to accessorize or fuss over figuring out how to wear/use the jacket. It's like comfort food. Basic but satisfying.

I see this book the same way the Riviera book was. Not the same weight or finish of cloth as Riviera but serves the same purpose for me.
Basic cloths/patterns with enough subtle nuance to not be pedestrian. The stuff that is easy to mix into a wardrobe and gets worn a lot.

 

[fllick]

Good sturdy cloth. The small touch of cashmere is blended into the mix before the fibers are spun into yarns. It as added to develop the hand of the cloth but doesn't effect the wearability much, if at all.

Thanks for the insight. Appreciate it

 

[Murlsquirl]



Sending it to me to make up along with Patrick's?

What you ordered isn't as tightly woven as the green. A bit softer to the hand. The mottled mix of color really makes a visually interesting cloth.

Don't I wish...but a suit from you is on my bucket list!

That sounds just perfect. Thanks.

 

[Griffindork]



This point I don't see as a negative.  Phoenix book is very wearable when you want something basic that you won't  have to make an effort to accessorize or fuss over figuring out how to wear/use the jacket. It's like comfort food. Basic but satisfying.

I see this book the same way the Riviera book was. Not the same weight or finish of cloth as Riviera but serves the same purpose for me.
Basic cloths/patterns with enough subtle nuance to not be pedestrian. The stuff that is easy to mix into a wardrobe and gets worn a lot.

This is all about personal taste so if you like Phoenix then have at it. When I say it's uninspiring I mean that the colors strike me as dull and lifeless and have a chalky appearance. And I wouldn't call it a book for basics - there are some pretty extreme patterns in there (the pinks for example), many of the solids have a second color flecked throughout (many times black) and a lot of the standard colors are varied shades (see the tan, for example, which is pretty orange). Again - personal preference, but I usually think of w bill as the best in a given range - the donegals, Harris tweeds, linens and lamlana strike me as top in their category - but for 10 oz worsted wool I think there are better choices. Caccioppoli/drapers do it better.

 

[Monkeyface]

What do you guys think about 10% cashmere/90% wool mid weight flannel? It feels extremely soft and seems to have a decent drape, but I'm not sure how durable a fabric like that would be.