Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[lordsuperb]

You're a classic man, learn to embrace the dandy.

 

[brokencycle]

What is going on in this thread?

 

[sprout2]

Those are some pretty bland retiree tweeds

 

[Andy57]

Those are some pretty bland retiree tweeds

WTF is a retiree tweed?

 

[Cantabrigian]

Imagine if these guys were wearing tweed. What tweed would they be wearing?

 

[lordsuperb]

Obviously those patterns were too bland even for them in their advanced age. They stay keeping it gangsta with the sweater and rugby shirt.

 

[obama]

Hi, anyone know the source and number of this nice jacketing? Or something similar? I'm starting my next project for a beige plain jacketing with lots of texture. Is it linen?

 

[CrimsonWave]



Its worth remembering that VBC is nearing 400 years in the milling industry, so its reasonable to make the argument that they know what they are doing. Its also worth remembering that their largest customer is Zenga, who are renowned for "their" cloth. I think the cost to procure a noticeably nicer cloth is very high.

With that being said, there seems to be a premium placed on "English" cloths on SF, even if that cloth is objectively lower quality that cheaper Italian alternatives. Or even funnier, when that "English" cloth is made by the Italians

Full disclosure, my current favorite suitings book is the Classics II book from Huddersfield, with Winter Tasmania from Loro Piana a close second. Both of these books are significantly more expensive than any of my orders from VBC.

I have a suit made from their Perennial range (worsted suiting, 260 gms) that turned out very well, and I've since ordered another suit in the same design but in a different colour. However I still prefer my vintage H. Lesser 9.5 and Smith Woolens Blue Riband suits, which have a very dry finish (the VBCs are somewhat shiny) and in my view hang better than the VBCs I have. For these qualities, I am willing to pay the premium for English business suitings from Harrisons and the like.

 

[venividivicibj]

Hi, anyone know the source and number of this nice jacketing? Or something similar? I'm starting my next project for a beige plain jacketing with lots of texture. Is it linen?

http://www.nomanwalksalone.com/inde...-single-breasted-sport-coat-8-9-oz-cloth.html

 

[bdavro23]

I have a suit made from their Perennial range (worsted suiting, 260 gms) that turned out very well, and I've since ordered another suit in the same design but in a different colour. However I still prefer my vintage H. Lesser 9.5 and Smith Woolens Blue Riband suits, which have a very dry finish (the VBCs are somewhat shiny) and in my view hang better than the VBCs I have. For these qualities, I am willing to pay the premium for English business suitings from Harrisons and the like.

I also have a suit and some trousers from the Perennial book and am very pleased with them. In my opinion, the cloth is on the light side and is probably closer to 8 oz. My experience with English cloth is that it tends to run heavy, which would account for the better drape. In any case, I think we are on the same page.

 

[obama]

Thanks veni. That colour is nice but I prefer subtle cross weave texture to herringbone.

Anyone has any idea on what the fabric is? This photo seems famous in the community.

 

[sprout2]

Fabric is 867/5309 from the M. LLIB collection.

 

[obama]



Fabric is 867/5309 from the M. LLIB collection.

Pardon me, what is M. LLIB stand for? Brand name? Thanks Sprout.

 

[Gauss17]

Question: For overcoating fabrics -

What is (in your opinion) the best overcoating fabric? I was looking around at cloth from Minnis, Fox Bros, and Harrisons. I like the idea of going with harrisons since I was going to place an order with them anyways, but are they markedly better than Minnis or Fox? I am asking because their prices seem to be quite a bit higher than ordering from Fox or Minnis in the same weight range. This seemed odd to be as I was under the impression that Minnis and Fox were already some of the "pricier" fabrics.

Or is there a better way to order rather than from Isles Textile group here in the USA?

 

[Concordia]

If you're getting Harrisons in the US, they will only sell through their agent. That said, your tailor might have his own supplier.

I'm about to pull the same sort of trigger for a midnight DB coat. Minnis has a nice herringbone that is rather worsted-looking, but has made up very nicely. Harrisons has one that is more woolly at 22oz, and Fox has one almost the same color but a little less densely-packed at 19/20oz. Dugdale has a very nice one that is much heavier at 25oz. W Bill has a herringbone that has little bits of royal blue sprinkled in. Just enough that it will have a blue personality and never quite look black. Without going to camel hair or cashmere, those were the main options that came up.