Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[gng1962]

why terrible? i enjoy lighweight suits.

 

[venividivicibj]

Doesn't hang as smoothly, looks wrinkly etc. there is a point where light becomes light too light

 

[Stencil]

why terrible? i enjoy lighweight suits.

a) You'll find that, in general, there is a traditionalist love of heavyweight fabrics here, which many (myself included) think drape better and stand up to abuse for longer.

b) 6 oz is getting beyond lightweight, and into flyweight.

 

[gng1962]

thank you gents. actually i made my decision on the weight. i just wonder if anyone used the specific ariston fabric.

 

[sprout2]

ID please

 

[Cordwinder]

Any recommendations for tailors in HK?
I get excess fabric from work but I don't want to take them to my regular tailor. He's getting old and whatever I wants can't be done, or will look ugly.

Thank you.

 

[emptym]

Thanks for the help guys, particularly P-K-L and Grammaton Cleric.

 

[ErikJN]

Hey guys,

I'm getting a SC made up by Luxire, and as my first non-OTR SC I want them to make "the ultimate navy blazer", if you will. Looking for a 3-4 season navy fabric within Luxire's range, however being new to the entire possibility of choosing fabrics, I'm a bit uncertain what to go for.

A Minnis navy fresco was suggested to me, but from what I've gathered from this thread, fresco is a somewhat summery fabric, not very suited for fall/winter? Again from this thread, hopsack and serge seems to be go-to fabrics, however I can't find any plain navy fabrics of either in Luxire's stock.

So I'm wondering if you have any suggestions?

Luxire carries Hunt Winterbotham, Minnis and Dugdale, and they also have a Cerruti 95/5 wool cashmere navy fabric that looks interesting. Would a 12-14 oz plain navy wool or wool cashmere flannel would look too formal/"suity" to work well as a sport coat, or is it the way to go?

Thank you for your insights,

Erik

 

[dieworkwear]

Probably depends on your climate. If you live in a very warm place anyway, such as Southern California, you can probably wear Fresco for much of the year. If you live in NYC, where there are real seasons, then I'm not sure there's a single fabric that can really serve you well for twelve months.

FWIW, I'm in Northern California. A 12 oz hopsack wool would probably work here for at least 3/4ths of the year.

Where do you live?

 

[ErikJN]

Thanks, should have mentioned that. I'm in Norway, definitely experiencing real seasons. I'm not expecting to use the blazer on the hottest of summer days (frankly, not that much in mid-summer at all), and of course I'll use a pretty heavy overcoat in winter. So, I guess I'm looking for something down the middle. Looks like 10-12 oz are typical fall weights.

As mentioned, I can't find a plain navy hopsack - is flannel too "suity"?

Thanks again for your reply!

 

[dieworkwear]

I like flannel sport coats personally, but not everyone here does.

I would think a 12oz hopsack would be good for you. It's harder wearing than flannel and looks less season specific. I think of flannel sport coats mostly as a late fall/ winter thing.

For what it's worth, I have a navy wool hopsack from Smiths. I think they have a couple under Botony and Oyster? IIRC mine is Oyster. It looks slightly less "suity" than Botony. I also have a wool/ cashmere mix from Caccioppoli. Nicer looking fuzzy texture, but as cashmere jacketings go, it's a bit more prone to pill.

 

[Grammaton Cleric]



Thanks, should have mentioned that. I'm in Norway, definitely experiencing real seasons. I'm not expecting to use the blazer on the hottest of summer days (frankly, not that much in mid-summer at all), and of course I'll use a pretty heavy overcoat in winter. So, I guess I'm looking for something down the middle. Looks like 10-12 oz are typical fall weights.

As mentioned, I can't find a plain navy hopsack - is flannel too "suity"?

Thanks again for your reply!

Saxony is a carded flannel that is great for sportcoats and does not come across as 'suity'

 

[Grammaton Cleric]



Any recommendations for tailors in HK?
I get excess fabric from work but I don't want to take them to my regular tailor. He's getting old and whatever I wants can't be done, or will look ugly.

Thank you.

A-Man is my tailor here and I highly recommend them.

 

[bamboo]

It also depends on how much you would like to spend on cmt. On the higher end I know Gordon Yao accepts CMT but not for the first commission. Among value for money tailor Browns and Dream bespoke are recent SF favorites.

 

[jimmycth]

I've recently bought a length of cloth which reads "Trisco Mohair" on the edge. I've done some search online and find no information about Trisco. What actually is Trisco?