Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[SimonC]

Lesser 8/9 was ok. Nothing special. Not as much crease resistance as fresco or tropical air

Agree with this. I have a suit in it, and it’s a fabric choice I regret. Against Rangoon, there’s just no competition

 

[Concordia]

Anyone tried Mystique? Used to be a poor relation of Lesser (the tops in those days). But there are a few patterns that I find intriguing.

 

[kolecho]

I am going to close orders for these two Rangoon in POW check this Sunday (mid grey and dark blue). Please PM if you are interested. Thanks.

Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

But you'll order several cloths in a row. You're never going to full fund your liabilities. Call me naive, but I thought I would... reality has kicked in, I should stop buying cloth and focus on actually funding the stuff I already own. But I keep seeing super nice cloth, but I will from now on...

www.styleforum.net

 

[kolecho]

Can you make us a mockleno from a dark and racing green yarn?

I'm going to see if I can get some samples done up when I send in the Rangoon POW check early next week.

 

[hitsuji]

Lesser 8/9 was ok. Nothing special. Not as much crease resistance as fresco or tropical air

Agree with this. I have a suit in it, and it’s a fabric choice I regret. Against Rangoon, there’s just no competition

How is the 8-9oz with lumbs golden bale? I’ve got a suit length of it in a pinstripe

 

[JHWilliams]

How is the 8-9oz with lumbs golden bale? I’ve got a suit length of it in a pinstripe

No experience with the lightweight section of that bunch.

Just commissioned a very dark navy worsted twill from the LGB bunch. They are having a difficult time sourcing some of the darker yarns, so the bunch is running down quickly

 

[single_origin]

Does anyone have any suggestions on where to buy shirt fabrics in Milan?

 

[camez_]

Does anyone have any suggestions on where to buy shirt fabrics in Milan?

go to Il Vecchio Drappiere
also, on the other side of the street is Camiceria Tiziano - you can buy fabrics there as well if you ask nicely

 

[mktitsworth]

MBT friend out of state found this length of legendary Barbara for Lesser Gun Club that I gave him a decade ago and we're going to make it up. It was packed up, didn't have and tag and the only way he found it was because I sent him a picture I'd taken of it in 2014. This is my favorite Gun club I've ever found. Here is the pic he sent me of the found cloth and the original pic I sent him.

 

[kolecho]

I am going to close orders for these two Rangoon in POW check this Sunday (mid grey and dark blue). Please PM if you are interested. Thanks.

Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

But you'll order several cloths in a row. You're never going to full fund your liabilities. Call me naive, but I thought I would... reality has kicked in, I should stop buying cloth and focus on actually funding the stuff I already own. But I keep seeing super nice cloth, but I will from now on...

www.styleforum.net

Here are a couple more close-up pics.

 

[Mr. Six]

Rangoon and Piuma are getting renewed attention. In that vein, has anyone had recent experience with Lesser 8/9 or Harrison’s Mystique?

Solito made a suit for me last year using a Lesser 8/9 navy chalkstripe. Not as breathable or wrinkle resistant as the high twist fabrics but still comfortable in mild heat, soft, and drapes nicely. More substantial than Mystique.

Mystique is a bit stiffer than Lesser and a bit more breathable. Also drapes well.

I like Rangoon better than both. Haven’t tried Piuma.

 

[single_origin]

Is there a reference which breaks down the typical widths that cloth comes in, and for each width, how much yardage of cloth is needed? I'm mainly in relation to shirts but I'm interested in the jacket and suit side as well.

I'm new to the concept of buying fabric on my own and then giving it to my tailor to make something out of it. Is there a general guide somewhere on how to shop for cloths for shirts and suits?

 

[tim_horton]

CC3 : Cocktail Collection Bitter Chocolate Barathea

The new Fox Brothers’ Cocktail Collection showcases a selection for all tastes. Presented in 3 weights, our curated Barathea range that redefines tradition. Woven in new plain colours and subtle checks, allowing for extensive choice, not only for eveningwear, but also for your day-to-day...

foxflannel.com

Would a Tuxe in this bitter chocolate (almost black) shade work with black facings or would this be too experimental? The CC2 chocolate shade seems a little too brown to work

I’ve made one deep, dark brown tuxedo with black facing and trouser braid. It looked fantastic. Don’t know how the client used it. It ended up at a resale shop and I thought about buying it because I liked it so much.
If you don’t do a tux, make a DB suit

I ordered a swatch out of curiosity. It’s really nice. As dark as brown can get without being black. I had to hold it up against pure black fabric in natural light to really see the brown. But once you see it, you can’t not see it.

I agree it would make for a great DB suit… though I’m not sure if I’m saying that because @Despos put the idea into my head or because I’m loving my recent 6x1 DB suit so much I want everything in that style now. I really have no clue as to what makes a fabric better for SB over DB.

 

[hitsuji]

MBT friend out of state found this length of legendary Barbara for Lesser Gun Club that I gave him a decade ago and we're going to make it up. It was packed up, didn't have and tag and the only way he found it was because I sent him a picture I'd taken of it in 2014. This is my favorite Gun club I've ever found. Here is the pic he sent me of the found cloth and the original pic I sent him.

View attachment 2258765
View attachment 2258767

Would’ve been a bloody shamebif he forgot about it! Its bloody excellent.. I bought a length of the Carlo Barberacfor H Lesser from Japan - a houndstooth check in 8oz. Wish there was some 13oz of their lambswool still about!

 

[hitsuji]

I ordered a swatch out of curiosity. It’s really nice. As dark as brown can get without being black. I had to hold it up against pure black fabric in natural light to really see the brown. But once you see it, you can’t not see it.

I agree it would make for a great DB suit… though I’m not sure if I’m saying that because @Despos put the idea into my head or because I’m loving my recent 6x1 DB suit so much I want everything in that style now. I really have no clue as to what makes a fabric better for SB over DB.

Getting a Double breasted from a new tailor I’m trying out via remote fittings with a harrisons universal flannel I have. If that fits well I may well go for it… a similar vein to the stuff B&tailor makes

I really think it would make a good tuxe but whats wearing it maybe 1-2 times a year vs abit more.. its quite a versatile weight too