Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[classicalthunde]

Glad to hear it!
Any pictures of it by chance? Either worn, on a hanger, pretty much anything.

is this the 'negroni' tweed?

 

[TheLawBeard]

is this the 'negroni' tweed?

No. Different colors. I’ve seen a bunch of the Negroni tweed.

 

[S K M]

I react allergic to purple hues in blues, so relate to you. My WB dark navy certainly does not have any such thing. I think I have the 09 final.

Coincidentally I just ordered a suit in the 61309 today, seems I made the right decision. The choice was also informed by a photo here on SF of a suit in the 307 that came out quite light. Looking forward to the fitting with Paone in a month's time.

 

[jonathanS]

Anyone with experience with these 2? Both are 2 ply, I suspect the fox will hold its shape better, but ascot will be lighter?

Maybe the answer is the fox air and get a 4ply. I really like the fox air suit I have. But, I’m thinking just odd trousers.

FA15 : Beige Melange Plain Weave

This cloth is a plain weave on a base of beige melange with ecru to give a lively appearance to the colour tone of the cloth. Fox Air is a tropical suiting cloth with a crisp, dry handle. Woven using a 2-ply up-twisted worsted wool to achieve a crease resistant cloth that is the ideal travel...

foxflannel.com

Plain fabric for Suit by Vitale Barberis Canonico - 18018

21 micron beige fabric (cod. 18018) from the Ascot two, four and six ply bunch. Buy now online on Drapers Italy and create your made to measure suit.

drapersitaly.it

 

[tim_horton]

Anyone with experience with these 2? Both are 2 ply, I suspect the fox will hold its shape better, but ascot will be lighter?

Maybe the answer is the fox air and get a 4ply. I really like the fox air suit I have. But, I’m thinking just odd trousers.

FA15 : Beige Melange Plain Weave

This cloth is a plain weave on a base of beige melange with ecru to give a lively appearance to the colour tone of the cloth. Fox Air is a tropical suiting cloth with a crisp, dry handle. Woven using a 2-ply up-twisted worsted wool to achieve a crease resistant cloth that is the ideal travel...

foxflannel.com

Plain fabric for Suit by Vitale Barberis Canonico - 18018

21 micron beige fabric (cod. 18018) from the Ascot two, four and six ply bunch. Buy now online on Drapers Italy and create your made to measure suit.

drapersitaly.it

The 2-ply/21 micron Draper’s is not that robust. If that’s what you’re looking for I’d go with the 4-ply, especially for trousers.

 

[Concordia]

If you know the Fox Air works, go for that.

 

[Concordia]

Good neutral, flexible choice. Unless you really are out in the sticks and don't want to look like a doctor visiting from town. (In Boston, there was a time not too long ago when pretty much every doctor wore grey herringbone Harris tweed-- for every occasion.)

I just totally disagree with the idea that a gray tweed sport coat isn't versatile – a gray herringbone or donegal jacket should be great with denim or basically any darker trousers that aren't gray

 

[jonathanS]

The 2-ply/21 micron Draper’s is not that robust. If that’s what you’re looking for I’d go with the 4-ply, especially for trousers.

Plain fabric for Suit by Vitale Barberis Canonico - 18054

4-ply beige fabric (cod. 18054) from the Ascot two, four and six ply bunch. Buy now online on Drapers Italy and create your made to measure suit.

drapersitaly.it

Looks like these guys would be the 4 ply version

If you know the Fox Air works, go for that.

My concern is color - I’m looking for a summer equivalent of a gray flannel trouser. I thought about gray fresco, but I think grays can be a bit too cold for spring / summer. Whereas, a beige has a warmer undertone to it.

Of course, looking at the fabrics makes me want to order a suit in the fabric. Haha

Just ordered the double chalk stripe fox flannel - maybe some of you want to order it as well

Looks nice. Seems awfully pricey for flannel no?

 

[camez_]

Plain fabric for Suit by Vitale Barberis Canonico - 18054

4-ply beige fabric (cod. 18054) from the Ascot two, four and six ply bunch. Buy now online on Drapers Italy and create your made to measure suit.

drapersitaly.it

Looks like these guys would be the 4 ply version




My concern is color - I’m looking for a summer equivalent of a gray flannel trouser. I thought about gray fresco, but I think grays can be a bit too cold for spring / summer. Whereas, a beige has a warmer undertone to it.

Of course, looking at the fabrics makes me want to order a suit in the fabric. Haha



Looks nice. Seems awfully pricey for flannel no?

Take a look at the weight and tell me where I can find something equivalent nowadays. Yes, price is high, but not as high as LL, for instance.

 

[jonathanS]

Take a look at the weight and tell me where I can something equivalent nowadays. Yes, price is high, but not as high as LL, for instance.

Am I missing something? Fox, retail is 220£ / meter. LL is closer to 160-180£

But I haven’t purchased either in a while. Both are a tad expensive for me. I just had a chalk stripe made in a vintage Harrison’s, from back when fox made for Harrison’s. It’s great. It was my tailor’s stock though.

I’m sitting on an old Taylor & lodge lumbs golden bale gray chalk stripe. And I like the db so much, I’m thinking about having that made as a db (plan was sb), but we’ll see in the fall.

But, it’s truly a beautiful fabric with a great weight. Perhaps I should consider it. I thought about it on the initial drop.

But opted not to, my problem is I’d use the same tailor I already have a navy chalkstripe from - is there room for a second navy db chalkstripe?

 

[LJ1891]

Took delivery today

 

[DorianGreen]

Took delivery today
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Awesome cloth.

 

[Concordia]

Has anyone had reason to try Harris Tweed of Hebrides? I know there are a lot of individual weavers who can put their own stamp on things, but I was wondering if this outlet was better than others at the moment. Their website wound up on my Facebook feed.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Am I missing something? Fox, retail is 220£ / meter. LL is closer to 160-180£

But I haven’t purchased either in a while. Both are a tad expensive for me. I just had a chalk stripe made in a vintage Harrison’s, from back when fox made for Harrison’s. It’s great. It was my tailor’s stock though.

I’m sitting on an old Taylor & lodge lumbs golden bale gray chalk stripe. And I like the db so much, I’m thinking about having that made as a db (plan was sb), but we’ll see in the fall.

But, it’s truly a beautiful fabric with a great weight. Perhaps I should consider it. I thought about it on the initial drop.

But opted not to, my problem is I’d use the same tailor I already have a navy chalkstripe from - is there room for a second navy db chalkstripe?

View attachment 2153209

There’s a significant price drop if you have your tailor or someone with an account order for you.

 

[classicalthunde]

Has anyone had reason to try Harris Tweed of Hebrides? I know there are a lot of individual weavers who can put their own stamp on things, but I was wondering if this outlet was better than others at the moment. Their website wound up on my Facebook feed.

Honestly, with regard to Harris Tweed, I think the biggest difference between the big mills and the independent producers is that the independents tend to weave single width (75cm), which is a bit heavier than the double width (150cm). My single widths are ~295 g/m, so would be closer to 600 g/m at double width, whereas I think most double width HT is ~550g/m.

Almost positive all HT weavers/mills get their wool/yarn from the same handful of place and then have there cloth 'finished' in one of the three main mills. I think where the primary difference comes in is the designs themselves.

I think by law, all HT needs to be from new wool, manually loomed (no electricity), and completed on the Outer Hebrides Islands. So qualitatively, there shouldn't be that much difference.