Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[camez_]

Dug this lovely bunch out of my tailor’s cupboard. Looks like two linen trousers are going to be made up for Spring and Summer. W Bill Tobacco linen and this mid gray

I think I saw someone say these folks make up W.Bills Irish Linens? Is it normal for these to be 75cm wide compared the standard 150cm

you're very lucky, it's an older piece that was woven on single width looms.

 

[kolecho]

Last time I checked Caccioppoli still offered single width Irish linen suitings.

 

[S K M]

Anyone has first hand experience with the olive shades from the Fox Air bunch? I'm contemplating either the plain (FA17) or the four point star (FA22) for a casual, half lined summer suit to be worn mostly without a tie. I haven't yet seen either in real life, so any experience would be much appreciated, thanks!

 

[WhereNext]

Anyone has first hand experience with the olive shades from the Fox Air bunch? I'm contemplating either the plain (FA17) or the four point star (FA22) for a casual, half lined summer suit to be worn mostly without a tie. I haven't yet seen either in real life, so any experience would be much appreciated, thanks!

I may be misremembering, but I think David Lane has something in the olive 4 point star?

 

[NorwRichard]

I had a nightmare happening while in London this weekend. After a walking in a puddle, my favorite cords got some stains, and the dry cleaner of the hotel put BLEACH on them.. so now they are totally f… The trousers were 10-15 years old RTW from Huntsman, very heavy, cream-ish/corn colored and very soft. See pictures. So now I have to make something bespoke with my tailor to recreate them. But really struggeling to become confident on cloth choice, and also having difficulties finding something heavy with cream color. Suggestions?

 

[DorianGreen]

I had a nightmare happening while in London this weekend. After a walking in a puddle, my favorite cords got some stains, and the dry cleaner of the hotel put BLEACH on them.. so now they are totally f… The trousers were 10-15 years old RTW from Huntsman, very heavy, cream-ish/corn colored and very soft. See pictures. So now I have to make something bespoke with my tailor to recreate them. But really struggeling to become confident on cloth choice, and also having difficulties finding something heavy with cream color. Suggestions?
View attachment 2144141

Feeling your pain. What a pity! Lovely cloth.

 

[jonathanS]

I had a nightmare happening while in London this weekend. After a walking in a puddle, my favorite cords got some stains, and the dry cleaner of the hotel put BLEACH on them.. so now they are totally f… The trousers were 10-15 years old RTW from Huntsman, very heavy, cream-ish/corn colored and very soft. See pictures. So now I have to make something bespoke with my tailor to recreate them. But really struggeling to become confident on cloth choice, and also having difficulties finding something heavy with cream color. Suggestions?
View attachment 2144141

Take it to Jeeves, seee if they can work their magic. Expensive but maybe it’ll help.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Take it to Jeeves, seee if they can work their magic. Expensive but maybe it’ll help.

Sending a pair of trousers from Norway to New York for cleaning sounds more than expensive.

 

[jonathanS]

Sending a pair of trousers from Norway to New York for cleaning sounds more than expensive.

Huh? I think Jeeves started in London but they have a location in New York. I thought op was in London. At any rate, find a dry cleaner that is probably way too expensive & see if they can do anything.

 

[L.deJong]

I had a nightmare happening while in London this weekend. After a walking in a puddle, my favorite cords got some stains, and the dry cleaner of the hotel put BLEACH on them.. so now they are totally f… The trousers were 10-15 years old RTW from Huntsman, very heavy, cream-ish/corn colored and very soft. See pictures. So now I have to make something bespoke with my tailor to recreate them. But really struggeling to become confident on cloth choice, and also having difficulties finding something heavy with cream color. Suggestions?
View attachment 2144141

Maybe you can ask Huntsman? Most RTW-lines have a couple of numbers in the inside denoting which cloth etc. was used. But Huntsman probably doesn't have that. Best bet would be Brisbane Moss.

 

[camez_]

Maybe you can ask Huntsman? Most RTW-lines have a couple of numbers in the inside denoting which cloth etc. was used. But Huntsman probably doesn't have that. Best bet would be Brisbane Moss.

brisbane has almost no UK made cottons/corduroy left anymore, so I doubt he'll find exactly the same colour/cloth

 

[NorwRichard]

It’s too old to find the exact bunch.. but any tip for something similar

 

[Concordia]

There are several wide-wale bunches >14oz. Not sure there is a ton to choose between except the color once you get to that level.

 

[L.deJong]

brisbane has almost no UK made cottons/corduroy left anymore, so I doubt he'll find exactly the same colour/cloth

Brisbane makes a lot of cords for instance HFW is also made by Brisbane, right?
Anyway, this (picture is not the right shade, way lighter up close) could be it:

Huddersfield Fine Worsteds

www.hfwltd.com

But then again 700gr p/metre so drapes like armor, it's soft but you need to wear it in or throw it against the wall 200 times hahaha. I have the same cloth in olive and it's an absolute beast of a trouser!
This fawn color is probably a little more brown than your existing pair.

 

[NorwRichard]

Brisbane makes a lot of cords for instance HFW is also made by Brisbane, right?
Anyway, this (picture is not the right shade, way lighter up close) could be it:

Huddersfield Fine Worsteds

www.hfwltd.com

But then again 700gr p/metre so drapes like armor, it's soft but you need to wear it in or throw it against the wall 200 times hahaha. I have the same cloth in olive and it's an absolute beast of a trouser!
This fawn color is probably a little more brown than your existing pair.

View attachment 2144259

I was looking at 9360 at HFW actually! I have already ordered some swatches from HFW.

Also thinking about 163143. But cotton stretch, that means some mix right? Hfw does not say what the wale number is