Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[ericgereghty]

Thinking about getting a black linen suit made. Anyone here have one or have any experience with black linen? I want something I can wear to dinner or with denim at night with a white shirt, black polo or rayon shirt in the spring and summer.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

-DL

I do. I think it's fun (in the boring, sober way we SFers enjoy) and good for your wants. I would keep it a suit and nix denim. But, suit + white shirt (I assume no tie) is an awesome look, in my opinion.

It's obviously going to wrinkle. it will get a bitttttt sheeny, though not all that dissimilar from a navy linen.

 

[circumspice]

@DavidLane

Some Frenchies are kinda on your wavelength of linen for night. This might be worth a look:

Palais Garnier

Palais Garnier is the glorious bridge between art and the world, where beauty and History command an affectionate respect. A true black with unsurpassable depth, this cloth is a urbane reinterpretation of linen.

maisonhellard.com

 

[ZRH1]

Thinking about getting a black linen suit made. Anyone here have one or have any experience with black linen? I want something I can wear to dinner or with denim at night with a white shirt, black polo or rayon shirt in the spring and summer.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

-DL

I just commissioned a black linen SB suit with Dugdale Lisburn cloth instead of my usual W. Bill choice, as it has more surface interest and tends slightly towards charcoal in shade/tone.

EDIT: wonderful, after having looked for what felt like ages for a heavy linen at struggling to beat 380, now Fox comes out with 500!

 

[Sfba]

Does anyone have an opinion on the wear and handle of Harrisons Fine Classics? I’ve heard this is the present equivalent of the old Lesser in the 370g category. How does it compare to Drapers Superbio in terms of drape, heat retention, and handle?

I have a lounge suit in Drapers Five Stars (Superbio predecessor) that was made up in peak Covid (when I 30 pounds heavier) and is no longer fit for purpose. Wondering whether it’s worth considering a shift to the Fine Classics bunch.

 

[dv0101]

Shopping for my wedding suit and am quite new to suiting in general (so go easy on me ha). What fabrics should I be focusing on for the lowest sheen? Our wedding is elegant but also casual -- it's in a backyard/garden. I'm going with a dark navy and I want something that I could theoretically wear in all four seasons, drapes well and is 100% wool.

I love the way the high twist, fresco style fabrics look. Are there any other types of fabrics I should be looking at that won't break the bank?

 

[Sfba]

Shopping for my wedding suit and am quite new to suiting in general (so go easy on me ha). What fabrics should I be focusing on for the lowest sheen? Our wedding is elegant but also casual -- it's in a backyard/garden. I'm going with a dark navy and I want something that I could theoretically wear in all four seasons, drapes well and is 100% wool.

I love the way the high twist, fresco style fabrics look. Are there any other types of fabrics I should be looking at that won't break the bank?

For good value and low sheen, Fresco III is quite good. I think Dugdale’s NFW is just as springy, but more refined and proper for suiting.

Finmeresco has a range around the 300g, 3-season range, but it may run slightly more than Minnis or Dugdale. Classic and robust for a reason. Don’t recall any sheen.

Drapers Supersonic could be an option, but it’s new and unproven. Springiness is just as good as Fresco, and it feels even lighter. Not cheap though. No sheen.

Stay away from Crispaire. Expensive and gutless. Ditto for mohair fabrics and pick-and-pick weaves due to their sheen.

 

[Free Style]

I was looking through the Maison Hellard hueres blues bunch and am really taken with the Chant des Pins option: https://maisonhellard.com/products/1103

Anyone make anything in this fabric/have experience with it?

Not the best picture but this jacket is made in that fabric. I really like the design and color palette used, and it’s a relatively soft linen.

 

[double00]

Thinking about getting a black linen suit made. Anyone here have one or have any experience with black linen? I want something I can wear to dinner or with denim at night with a white shirt, black polo or rayon shirt in the spring and summer.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

-DL

such a great idea ! years ago i almost bought a black polo rl linen jacket it was a hopsack iirc . i don't think it was a a blend .

it was also sort of a dusty black and had a little sheen to it but pretty low-key and a beautiful mix of rumple and finesse . perfect for a spring/summer nite out . i cosign .

 

[camez_]

I just commissioned a black linen SB suit with Dugdale Lisburn cloth instead of my usual W. Bill choice, as it has more surface interest and tends slightly towards charcoal in shade/tone.

EDIT: wonderful, after having looked for what felt like ages for a heavy linen at struggling to beat 380, now Fox comes out with 500!

there is also solbiati with 530g

 

[ZRH1]

there is also solbiati with 530g

thank you, do you mean Art du Lin?

Btw. as for Maison Hellard, beautiful handle but in twill way too soft for me.

 

[camez_]

thank you, do you mean Art du Lin?

Btw. as for Maison Hellard, beautiful handle but in twill way too soft for me.

Yes. There are two qualities included in Art du Lin. One is 420/450 and the other is 530.

 

[DavidLane]

such a great idea ! years ago i almost bought a black polo rl linen jacket it was a hopsack iirc . i don't think it was a a blend .

it was also sort of a dusty black and had a little sheen to it but pretty low-key and a beautiful mix of rumple and finesse . perfect for a spring/summer nite out . i cosign .

That is what I was shooting for.

 

[DavidLane]

Yes. There are two qualities included in Art du Lin. One is 420/450 and the other is 530.

I saw that line on the Solbiati website, but there are no images of the colors. If not is there a site where I can see all the options? I crossed them off my list because I couldn't see anything on their site.

-DL

 

[ZRH1]

Yes. There are two qualities included in Art du Lin. One is 420/450 and the other is 530.

thank you. I got a swatch via a tailor less than two years ago but immediately dismissed it as to my touch it felt even thinner than W. Bill at 380. Perhaps I had an old bunch?

 

[reidd]

Yeah, that is what I was thinking. I have a few samples, but the only one I really like so far is from Fox and its HEAVY (17/18oz) hopsack. It has a great nubby texture:

View attachment 2140499

-DL

I love heavier cloths but personally would not go that heavy for a linen suit. The regular weight W Bill/Spence Bryson stuff would be my choice.