Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[JohnMRobie]

Where should I look for shirting in an interesting stripe with a vintage feel? White base, cotton or linen or cotton/linen.

Not sure what you mean by vintage feel but Carlo Riva and Bonfanti both have 90cm width offerings.

 

[garigo]

Thanks, those look interesting! I just mean a stripe pattern that's not the usual dressy kind, like you see more often on vintage shirts. For example a pinstripe or a track stripe.

Also, not necessarily looking to purchase myself. I just want to have an idea on which books to look at when I visit the tailor.

 

[camez_]

Thanks, those look interesting! I just mean a stripe pattern that's not the usual dressy kind, like you see more often on vintage shirts. For example a pinstripe or a track stripe.

Also, not necessarily looking to purchase myself. I just want to have an idea on which books to look at when I visit the tailor.

Grandi & Rubinelli, Söktas have some

 

[JohnMRobie]

Thanks, those look interesting! I just mean a stripe pattern that's not the usual dressy kind, like you see more often on vintage shirts. For example a pinstripe or a track stripe.

Also, not necessarily looking to purchase myself. I just want to have an idea on which books to look at when I visit the tailor.

Pretty much anyone will have that if you’re not looking for actual vintage feel to be honest and are paging through books.

Brought up Riva and Bonfanti because they use vintage looms which is why you get the 90cm width rather than 150cm you get on modern looms. When I was texting with Mr. Bonfanti recently he had some old stock with some unique patterns stashed away.

Riva will have lots of casual Italian stripes in bold colors in particular (wildly expensive from American makers for some reason but not bad in Italy)

 

[Shirtmaven]

Where should I look for shirting in an interesting stripe with a vintage feel? White base, cotton or linen or cotton/linen.

Please be more specific. Are you looking for 1930s vintage. Thin multistripes? Or huge 1970s bold... the former is usually not bright white. Those types of stripes rarely show up in the usual swatchbooks. The mills might produce but for brands. I have plenty of those in my shop. They were usually purchased in fabric stores or leftover from other brands. I saw that sort of stripe in a new shirt with a Mr. Porter label. Had a vintage shape collar. Darcy is a company that reproduces vintage styles mostly for the entertainment industry. They do sell some shirt fabric if you ask nicely. 100% cotton in single ply broadcloth

 

[Shirtmaven]

Not sure what you mean by vintage feel but Carlo Riva and Bonfanti both have 90cm width offerings.

The Riva designs in the book I have are very basic patterns.

 

[JohnMRobie]

The Riva designs in the book I have are very basic patterns.

Their seasonal cards always seem like they have some wild stripes in the mix.

 

[cheersmatez]

Deciding between Solbiati Time Off (WSL) and Bennett Silks (linen silk) for a summer navy suit and wanted to see what you guys think. Thanks

https://www.bennett-silks.co.uk/sil...matka-and-suitings/silk-suiting-8012/57-Navy/

Bedford Navy Linen Wool And Silk Suit

An easy suit for warm weather. Linen, wool, and a little bit of silk are blended to create this beautifully easy suit. The majority linen content lends the fabric a dry, subtly tex

propercloth.com

 

[Shirtmaven]

Where should I look for shirting in an interesting stripe with a vintage feel? White base, cotton or linen or cotton/linen.

Alumo has some new designs. Is this what you are thinking of? Or tighter stripes?

 

[garigo]

View attachment 2138309
Alumo has some new designs. Is this what you are thinking of? Or tighter stripes?

Yes this definitely looks interesting. Better wide like that than a tighter stripe. I don't have something specific in mind, but other examples could be this or this from L.E.J, or even this pinstripe from 18 East

 

[Shirtmaven]

Yes this definitely looks interesting. Better wide like that than a tighter stripe. I don't have something specific in mind, but other examples could be this or this from L.E.J, or even this pinstripe from 18 East

Different ideas of vintage. Also how you will wear the shirt. I envisioned worn with a suit.
The large bold stripes are very casual. Thomas Mason/Albini usually has some seasonal fashion stripes. Testa has a seasonal book with Interesting stripes. Most are distributed to brands not shirtmakers.
The cotton/linen stripe will be easier to find.

 

[garigo]

Different ideas of vintage. Also how you will wear the shirt. I envisioned worn with a suit.
The large bold stripes are very casual. Thomas Mason/Albini usually has some seasonal fashion stripes. Testa has a seasonal book with Interesting stripes. Most are distributed to brands not shirtmakers.
The cotton/linen stripe will be easier to find.

Not necessarily with a suit as I don't wear one often. Either on its own or under knitwear or under a jacket, I'm okay with the casual look.

Canclini has a large catalog online so I'll start by going through that.

 

[Shirtmaven]

Not necessarily with a suit as I don't wear one often. Either on its own or under knitwear or under a jacket, I'm okay with the casual look.

Out of curiosity what year to you is vintage. Do you have a photo from "this" time period as your inspiration
I am 66 the 1960s-80s are not vintage

 

[garigo]

Well I didn't mean that "vintage" too literally to be honest. I vaguely have something in mind that would fit in a scene of The Talented Mr. Ripley, so late 50s I guess.

 

[PanTadeusz]

Hello gents,

If anyone knows anyone who has or may have vintage fabric for sale do get in touch with me. I am looking for Scottish or English cloth anything up to the end of the 1970s would meet my needs. I have a preference for country-looking cloth.