Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[JohnMRobie]

I've decided to pull the trigger on some Dugdale Invincible cavalry twill for a double-breasted suit. I did a search here and couldn't find anything how much I should buy.

I did find something on Ask Andy About Clothes:
Coat & Trousers: 3.25 m.
Coat, Vest & Trousers: 3.50 m.
Blazer/Sport Coat: 2 m.
Trousers: 1.50 m.
Vest: .50 m.

For patterned fabrics add 1/4 meter.

I'm 6ft/183cm 38L & cuffed trousers 30w/32.5. Is 3.25m enough for a double-breasted suit in a plain fabric?

TIA

It depends on how efficient your cutter is I guess but generally no. I’m ballpark a similar size. 4 meters.

The better answer is to ask your tailor (and ask them if they have an account with Dugdale while you’re at it because you’ll likely save a lot of money if they do)

 

[CLH03]

I've decided to pull the trigger on some Dugdale Invincible cavalry twill for a double-breasted suit. I did a search here and couldn't find anything how much I should buy.

I did find something on Ask Andy About Clothes:
Coat & Trousers: 3.25 m.
Coat, Vest & Trousers: 3.50 m.
Blazer/Sport Coat: 2 m.
Trousers: 1.50 m.
Vest: .50 m.

For patterned fabrics add 1/4 meter.

I'm 6ft/183cm 38L & cuffed trousers 30w/32.5. Is 3.25m enough for a double-breasted suit in a plain fabric?

TIA

I don’t think so, at least not for DB. I would ask the tailor/company you are sending the fabric to. Some people like to have some extra fabric just to be safe.

 

[ppk]

I don’t think so, at least not for DB. I would ask the tailor/company you are sending the fabric to. Some people like to have some extra fabric just to be safe.

Hmm. I haven't chosen a tailor yet.

 

[ppk]

It depends on how efficient your cutter is I guess but generally no. I’m ballpark a similar size. 4 meters.

The better answer is to ask your tailor (and ask them if they have an account with Dugdale while you’re at it because you’ll likely save a lot of money if they do)

Ah. Great answer.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Hmm. I haven't chosen a tailor yet.

Depends who you use but generally speaking, prices if you have an account as a tailor should be at least 50% less than the cut length price if you go order yourself if that motivates you to pick instead of just stashing fabric. Some exceptions apply - I Sarti I think is the main one that comes to mind based on their price list if I recall.

 

[camez_]

I'm the same height and for a unicoloured fabric, I'd say 3.5m should be sufficient. My tailors need 3.3m, but I also weigh 100kg, so this should be safe.

 

[ericgereghty]

How the bloody hell are y'all so slender?!?

 

[Jamesbond1]

How the bloody hell are y'all so slender?!?

Mr. Savage they are not professional wrestlers so no HGH and steroids keeps them slim! Flying elbow drop is not what they do!!

 

[LJ1891]

How the bloody hell are y'all so slender?!?

No, but seriously we sacrifice meals so we can buy cloth. We are all about that #unfundedlife.

 

[Concordia]

@camez_ and everyone else

My friends in Hong Kong nailed it. What do you think? View attachment 2118541
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The icing on the cake for me. Check out the pattern matching job they did on the breast patch pocket.

Silly pockets, but otherwise nicely cut trousers.

 

[Concordia]

I find heavy cavalry twill to wear cooler than you would think based on the weight alone. Something about the crispiness of the cloth breaths surprisingly well. There's no pile like a flannel or cord so its not overly insulating.

Yes, but there are exceptions. LL QUCT has a more flannelly character, so that will hold you well in cold weather. Otherwise, the firm surface won’t feel at all warm until you really need it to breathe.

 

[tim_horton]

Aside from Harrison’s Universal and Dugdale’s Fearnaught, are there any other recommended books for heavy worsted business suiting? No woolen or worsted flannel, no speciality weaves like cavalry twill or whipcord, thanks.

I wound up going with the Fearnaught. Beautiful 18 oz. navy twill for a 6x1 DB. The grey is nice as well.

 

[Eganacci]

I find heavy cavalry twill to wear cooler than you would think based on the weight alone. Something about the crispiness of the cloth breaths surprisingly well. There's no pile like a flannel or cord so its not overly insulating.

Interesting, what are your preferred bunches in that realm?

 

[The Chai]

I find heavy cavalry twill to wear cooler than you would think based on the weight alone. Something about the crispiness of the cloth breaths surprisingly well. There's no pile like a flannel or cord so its not overly insulating.

I second this statement...I wear cav twill trousers in Australian heat.

 

[heldentenor]

Next commission is something either mid-brown or honey brown for spring/summer. Thoughts on these as options? I was leaning Montrose Bay but the ever persuasive @Jmr928 suggested Maison Hellard, which caught my eye and refused to let go.

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Thoughts on these for a neapolitan summer jacket?