Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[CLH03]

For me yes, I'll be using this to make a polo coat.

Yes, sorry, was referring to the other guy. I had seen your OP about the polo coat. Should make up very nicely.

 

[Smarter_than_Casual]

Been looking for WSL cloth very similar to Simons WSL but had no luck finding it in this year LP and Cacciopoli bunch. Any suggestion? Cheers

View attachment 2118371

Try the Linen Cashmere Silk from Maison Hellard. It is slightly more Oatmeal in colour, but should fit your needs.
I think Piacenza also has a nice oatmeal cashmere silk.

 

[LJ1891]

I certainly agree with you regarding bedford only as trousering, but you could use cav twill as jacketing/suiting. Originally it was also used in military uniforms, so I don't see that much of a problem there and I've also seen that on people although it's a bit unusual nowadays because of the weight. There are not many people who will wear above 500g jackets, I don't mind that though. If we take a look at vintage cloth, Scabal's Bronze Eagle as suiting for example, it weighed in at 580g and that was some sturdy cloth.

@bedford trousering
I also had envisioned a more casual look with frogmouth pockets for the pants, quite similar to the ones that you've posted from the Armoury. Would be another option that I'd like to consider..

Right. I can’t think of too many occasions when I would NEED to wear a jacket that heavy. But, I wouldn’t mind. A 500gr cavalry twill unconstructed jacket doesn’t seem like it would be warm wearing at all. We know that for pants 500gr ct isn’t too warm wearing either. It’s not tweed.

How heavy are Levis? People wear those and other much more substantial denims year round like it’s nothing.

 

[ezev]

Tip for best cavalry twill cloth for trousers? (beige,sand,brown)
And where to get it?

I have 2 pairs of trousers from the dugdale invincible bunch that I love. I have INV-038 in brown.

My tailor recommended INV-002 as well,which is a twist serge. I liked it but the weave was mixed with blue and I wanted something a bit darker.

 

[LJ1891]

I have 2 pairs of trousers from the dugdale invincible bunch that I love. I have INV-038 in brown.

My tailor recommended INV-002 as well,which is a twist serge. I liked it but the weave was mixed with blue and I wanted something a bit darker.

Shhh 🤫 about the inv038. I need there to be enough so I can get a length when I do my next order.

You guys should definitely buy the serge or maybe the woolen and worsted twists. Leave the cord and twill alone. It’s really not any good. Don’t waste your time. 😁

 

[Crispyj]

My tailor asked me what's next after he finishes the beige burgundy puppytooth with teal windowpane (looks pink in picture)... Had to tell him to wait until I visit him later this year.


Old stock, vintage or special run fabrics only

 

[reidd]

I find heavy cavalry twill to wear cooler than you would think based on the weight alone. Something about the crispiness of the cloth breaths surprisingly well. There's no pile like a flannel or cord so its not overly insulating.

 

[Marshak]

My tailor asked me what's next after he finishes the beige burgundy puppytooth with teal windowpane (looks pink in picture)... Had to tell him to wait until I visit him later this year.
View attachment 2118509

Old stock, vintage or special run fabrics only
View attachment 2118501 View attachment 2118503 View attachment 2118505 View attachment 2118507

Would gladly make the rust or olive tweed, even if those colors aren't easy to pair.

 

[Crispyj]

Would gladly make the rust or olive tweed, even if those colors aren't easy to pair.

I have the brown and green PS Escorial for jackets. Not looking to replace either of them with the rust and olive yet. Maybe 2-3 years down the road. Most likely going for grey suit or light grey jacket.

 

[LJ1891]

@camez_ and everyone else

My friends in Hong Kong nailed it. What do you think?

The icing on the cake for me. Check out the pattern matching job they did on the breast patch pocket.

 

[camez_]

this is really great! enjoy! pattern matching on point, really good!

 

[jonathanS]

I have the brown and green PS Escorial for jackets. Not looking to replace either of them with the rust and olive yet. Maybe 2-3 years down the road. Most likely going for grey suit or light grey jacket.

Maybe time for a db?

 

[CLH03]

I have the brown and green PS Escorial for jackets. Not looking to replace either of them with the rust and olive yet. Maybe 2-3 years down the road. Most likely going for grey suit or light grey jacket.

That charcoal w/light grey chalk stripe looks pretty good to me…

 

[Crispyj]

That charcoal w/light grey chalk stripe looks pretty good to me…

6ply chalkstripe. I have a 6ply grey taupe suit currently. So not in a rush for that one either hah.

 

[ppk]

I've decided to pull the trigger on some Dugdale Invincible cavalry twill for a double-breasted suit. I did a search here and couldn't find anything how much I should buy.

I did find something on Ask Andy About Clothes:
Coat & Trousers: 3.25 m.
Coat, Vest & Trousers: 3.50 m.
Blazer/Sport Coat: 2 m.
Trousers: 1.50 m.
Vest: .50 m.

For patterned fabrics add 1/4 meter.

I'm 6ft/183cm 38L & cuffed trousers 30w/32.5. Is 3.25m enough for a double-breasted suit in a plain fabric?

TIA