Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[gimpwiz]

I now join this club with a length of Holland & Sherry 2819202 - black wool/mohair (70/30). Am doing a 3-piece dinner suit now, ivory jacket and black trousers and vest; the rest will be saved for a jacket later. An interesting fabric, relatively rough and scratchy hand (compared to some other wool/mohair I have), but not at all uncomfortable unlined. Quite light. Anyways, my first time having cloth sitting there waiting for a project. I am a little impatient, but going to wait nonetheless.

I don't have a photo of the cloth itself but it's, yknow...... black. Here it is as trousers.

 

[cheersmatez]

Hi guys I came across this lovely dark grey / charcoal herringbone tweed (the herringbone is a lot less subtle than bunches from other suppliers) which I believe is from the merino tweed bunch from Abraham Moon. However I was not able to locate the fabric on their website. Would really appreciate if someone could point me to the cloth number / suggest alternatives. Cheers

 

[Fad P]

Hi guys I came across this lovely dark grey / charcoal herringbone tweed (the herringbone is a lot less subtle than bunches from other suppliers) which I believe is from the merino tweed bunch from Abraham Moon. However I was not able to locate the fabric on their website. Would really appreciate if someone could point me to the cloth number / suggest alternatives. Cheers View attachment 2054427

I believe it could be this one? I have a jacket made up in it - but if I remember correctly it’s now discontinued.

Possible options might be:
Shetland Plains - A1, A2, A3 by Moon1837 - Issuu

Merino Plains - B1, B2, B3 by Moon1837 - Issuu

Herringbone Coating - Q1, Q2 by Moon1837 - Issuu

 

[mack11211]

Moon confims the PEARL range pictured above has been discontinued. Current dark herringbone ranges for jacketing or suiting are in Shetland or Merino at about 375g. Colorways are similar but not exactly the same.

 

[tim_horton]

Looking for recommendations for an unfunded liability - a patterened blue/navy jacket; no solids. More than herringbone, I'm looking for glen plaids (first choice), glen checks, thick windowpanes, gun clubs... anything that wouldn't be mistaken for a blazer or a suit jacket. Anything up to 12 ounces would be ideal but I'd go heavier if pushed. A nice, oversized blue glen plaid would be ideal.

Here's an example from one of my favorite books, Harrison's Moonbeam, but I'm holding out for a glen plaid.

Here's a glen check from Fox City but it's just too suit-like for me.

 

[cheersmatez]

Moon confims the PEARL range pictured above has been discontinued. Current dark herringbone ranges for jacketing or suiting are in Shetland or Merino at about 375g. Colorways are similar but not exactly the same.

Thanks. Do you know if the pictured jacket is closer to the dark grey or the charcoal herringbone in the merino bunch in reality? Cheers!

 

[EA-male-worldorder]

I like the look of woolen flannel and tweed, however I am hyper obsessed with a perfect crease on my trousers, unfortunately those fabrics don’t crease very well, what other fabrics Can you recommend me, I also like worsted flannel but i can’t find it in winter weight 16+oz.

 

[CLH03]

I like the look of woolen flannel and tweed, however I am hyper obsessed with a perfect crease on my trousers, unfortunately those fabrics don’t crease very well, what other fabrics Can you recommend me, I also like worsted flannel but i can’t find it in winter weight 16+oz.

Anything flannel probably isn’t the best choice then. You can find some very heavy worsted cleaner finish fabrics that give you that razor crease.

 

[oldworldelegance]

View attachment 2054567

I believe it could be this one? I have a jacket made up in it - but if I remember correctly it’s now discontinued.

Possible options might be:
Shetland Plains - A1, A2, A3 by Moon1837 - Issuu

Merino Plains - B1, B2, B3 by Moon1837 - Issuu

Herringbone Coating - Q1, Q2 by Moon1837 - Issuu

Hi,

I have a 3-piece suit made with Abraham Moon charcoal shetland tweed. It's very nice, particularly in the evening. I tend to wear it with denim or western shirts, roll necks and corduroy or flannel shirts. Soft and comfortable without being too heavy. It's just about ok for trousers (I have two pairs and saved a length for a third pair just in case). Something like a P&H Thornproof would be better for trousers but you would lose the sponginess and softness of this woollen tweed. If you're going to wear it as a suit for 8 hours a day, then I would recommend another material. If you wear it for a few hours and half the times you use the jacket separately then it works quite well. Here are some pictures. I can take a few more of the cloth if you like.

Edit: This is the fabric in question: https://www.moons.co.uk/product/charcoal-8/

 

[mack11211]

Thanks. Do you know if the pictured jacket is closer to the dark grey or the charcoal herringbone in the merino bunch in reality? Cheers!

I think the closest shade among the current range of merino lambswool herringbones would be PL375/2013 shade #8. But I also agree with other posters about dubious utility of this material for trousers. This is a particular problem if you ever have wear or pilling in the crotch. The shetland tweeds are no better here -- I have already gone through one pair of trousers in the same material @oldworldelegance used for his jacket. The safest tweeds for trousers are worsted ones like P&H Thornproof or the Hardy Minnis Worsted Alsport.

 

[oldworldelegance]

I think the closest shade among the current range of merino lambswool herringbones would be PL375/2013 shade #8. But I also agree with other posters about dubious utility of this material for trousers. This is a particular problem if you ever have wear or pilling in the crotch. The shetland tweeds are no better here -- I have already gone through one pair of trousers in the same material @oldworldelegance used for his jacket. The safest tweeds for trousers are worsted ones like P&H Thornproof or the Hardy Minnis Worsted Alsport.

It's the eternal conundrum regarding tweed and suits. You either prioritise a soft, spongy jacket or sturdier trousers. These shetland trousers are fully lined which does increase their longevity. I feel that the shetland is slightly sturdier than the lambswool, but only just. Twill and herringbone weaves should also be stronger than plain ones. Given that the cloth is relatively affordable, if you want to use it for trousers it pays to get an extra length as backup. However, if you never plan to wear the jacket separately, then perhaps a worsted tweed is preferable even if you lose much of the character of the woollen versions. I often wear this jacket with medium to light grey flannels or dark olive cords.

 

[mack11211]

It's the eternal conundrum regarding tweed and suits. You either prioritise a soft, spongy jacket or sturdier trousers. These shetland trousers are fully lined which does increase their longevity. I feel that the shetland is slightly sturdier than the lambswool, but only just. Twill and herringbone weaves should also be stronger than plain ones. Given that the cloth is relatively affordable, if you want to use it for trousers it pays to get an extra length as backup. However, if you never plan to wear the jacket separately, then perhaps a worsted tweed is preferable even if you lose much of the character of the woollen versions. I often wear this jacket with medium to light grey flannels or dark olive cords.

My tweed trousers were & are lined as well (I got a second pair). The biggest issue is not the skill of the patternmaker or the utility of the lining but rather your own human anatomy -- if you ever experience trouser crotch wear, you'll have problems with woolen tweed trousers. If not, you won't.

 

[oldworldelegance]

Does anybody know of any large herringbone tweed suiting? By large I mean the kind of herringbone used for jacketing (from around 2cm in width).

 

[mack11211]

Does anybody know of any large herringbone tweed suiting? By large I mean the kind of herringbone used for jacketing (from around 2cm in width).

Ariston has a couple large-format herringbones in unusual colorways at the top of this page: https://www.aristonfabrics.com/product/winter-2023/w23-funky/

I've seen some from an English house in the past year but can't remember which, yet.

 

[WhereNext]

Looking for recommendations for an unfunded liability - a patterened blue/navy jacket; no solids. More than herringbone, I'm looking for glen plaids (first choice), glen checks, thick windowpanes, gun clubs... anything that wouldn't be mistaken for a blazer or a suit jacket. Anything up to 12 ounces would be ideal but I'd go heavier if pushed. A nice, oversized blue glen plaid would be ideal.

Here's an example from one of my favorite books, Harrison's Moonbeam, but I'm holding out for a glen plaid.

Here's a glen check from Fox City but it's just too suit-like for me.

I looked at the Lady San Felice book a few weeks ago and towards the front they had a number of blue glen plaids that I thought were nice. Different shades of blue, the plaid was definitely a sports coat scale, and the contrast wasn’t so big that it was too loud (again, the scale of the plaid made it read obviously as NOT a suiting, so the fact it’s less bold didn’t make it look like an orphaned jacket). Not sure if I took any pictures, but I can check if you don’t have easier access to the book/pictures.